Gokyo Ri - A date with Mount Everest

18th March Delhi to Kathmandu

Time flies. 

It's been more than a year since I last hiked in the Himalayas. Life has changed a lot since then, for the better.
For as long as I can remember, climbing mountains have mostly been a way for me to cope with difficult life situations. It's different when you hike out of some kind of spite towards humanity compared to just doing it for the love of the mountains.

I have erred a bit on both sides of that equation from time to time.

The plan was a bit outlandish in itself, flying from Germany to India and then, the very next day flying to Kathmandu. The time difference is not much (4.5 hours without daylight saving) but it still messes with your sleep routine. 

But here I am, on a flight to Kathmandu, heavily sleep deprived and honestly a little unsure of what next.

I've been hiking for close to a decade now but those pre-hike jitters never really goes away. It is an endless loop of what could go wrong in your head. 

Like for instance, knowing that flights are getting cancelled from Kathmandu to Lukla and having no idea when you'll actually be able to start hiking. All this while having a fixed departure back to Delhi. 

And in the middle of this uncertainty is an unexplainable feeling. "It'll be alright". Maybe my subconscious mind knows more than I give it credit for. Maybe it is just multiple layers of previous experiences buried down in me somewhere, propping up only when summoned. 

My plan is nothing short of ambitious. 

Dusseldorf to Frankfurt.
Frankfurt to Delhi
Delhi to Kathmandu
Kathmandu to Lukla..

.. and then I hike close to 92 kms and climb close to 5400m altitude

It'll be alright. 

With that spirit, I landed in Kathmandu with one eye open and the other on sleeping duty. Since I expected to face NPR cash issues, I made sure I have enough for the entirety of the trip. Not wanting to research on accommodation, I zeroed in on Zostel as my choice of stay. 

19th March Kathmandu to Lukla to Manjoo

And it was alright!

I somehow managed a flight to Lukla albeit not without my share of unwanted suspense. The domestic flight setup in Nepal is nothing sort of shambolic. But one of the rare perks of traveling solo is that there is a 50% chance of having a single seat vacant. 

50% is a really good number. 

The flight to Lukla is an adventure in itself with the landing strip that is barely visible from the tiny planes that land on it. Not too long ago there was an incident in Pokhara with a similar plane. Most passengers were very relieved once the plane landed. This is the ONE instance where I find it acceptable to clap for the pilot. 

 

Pocket sized plane

I reached Lukla around 1025. 

After trekker registration which is towards the trail, I started walking around 1100.

The trail was quite easy today but the first day hiking is always tricky, for me. I felt rickety and unsure of my footing but soon got into my rhythm and reached Phakding around Noon. The trail initially descends and then has a very gradual ascent. 

The best thing about this hike is the abundance of food and water options. There was even an Irish pub playing "I was made for lovin' you" which I found fascinating and confusing at the same time. 

 

Right outside Lukla "airport"

en route to the checkpoint

Come on! Look candid! Look candid!

 

After a heavy lunch, I walked to Manjoo which is somewhat higher than Phakding and gives you a sampler of things to come. It is also a nice head start if you want to push further up from Namche Bazaar. 

There are also a lot of wobbly Iron bridges on the way which I feel is an adventure in itself. As you progress, the bridges get higher and more picturesque. 

I decided to call it a day when I reached Manjoo at 1530 at a hotel called "Summit".

The rest of the day was spent walking around Manjoo and checking out the trekker registration office for Sagarmatha National park. 

Stay for the day!

I decided to sleep early since I need the rest for the climb to Namche tomorrow.

20th March Manjoo to Namche Bazaar

After much thought, I decided for a change of strategy. 

I am not doing the Everest base camp since it will be too much of a hectic hike schedule, not to mention the risks vis-a-vis the rapid elevation and the sheer effort. Apparently, I had gathered my information from someone who conveniently left out the part where he couldn't reach EBC and had to walk 50 km on one of the days. 

And if it was a challenge, I would've tried it. But since I'm on a vacation after almost a year and half and my preference is not to have to fight for my life, I decided on hiking only Gokyo Ri. 

Hence, I am trading my rest day at Macchermo for a gradual climbing approach. This way I'll be back at Lukla on 26th or earlier. If you have to fly out from Lukla, you need to reach Lukla one day before to confirm your booking. This is just how it works there. 

Sagarmatha national park entry - Permit point @ Manjoo

The hike to Namche is just 5 hours. Its a lot of climbing towards the end but even if you go really slow, take breaks, you'll still make it in 6. I did however, reach Namche quite early in the morning.

Giving in to the uber cool vibe of Namche, I just put on my sunglasses while enjoying a nice hot ginger lemon honey in a hotel. Its too easy to forget that you're on a hike in Namche.

I spent most of today wandering around Namche which really feels like a city market. Irish pub blaring out loud music, ATMs everywhere, fancy coffee shops, pool tables. 

You also see a lot of helicopters flying by. Lot of people take the option of flying to Namche from Kathmandu or Lukla. Besides the sheer hiking effort reduction, the helicopter ride is an experience in itself. 

A 500$ experience.

With not much to do and worsening weather, I decided to take an afternoon nap. When I woke up, there was at least 3 inch snow over Namche. How the turntables!

But hey, Better today than tomorrow when I go to Dole!

 

The "city" in the Himalayas- Namche Bazaar

I grabbed some nice dal bhat from the place where I stayed and then went to a live music place. Lets say, they tried so hard and got so far. 

Later, I called it a day with one eye out of my room's window. I bemoaned not researching enough about the weather but a part of me loved the suspense of what's to come next. 

March 21 Namche to Mong to Phortse Thenga

Sometimes when it rains, it pours. Other times it snows like nobody knows. (I'm going to patent that quote)

I woke up anticipating and hoping for a clearer sky. Swept aside the curtains of my window and all I see was white. White as far as the eye could see which was 2m. 

Dejected, I grabbed a king sized breakfast and started eating it very slowly while mentally acknowledging that its just not going to happen today. One more day of staying across the Irish pub in the friggin' Himalayas. The breakfast was huge but I was just trying to eat my worries away. 

I asked everyone who walked in the restaurant

If they're going up or down. Nobody was going up. Nobody knew anyone going up. 

I went back to my room, laid on my bed and prepared to sleep with the blanket over my head. But right before that I peaked outside my window and et voila!

No. more. Snow.

When life gives you lemons, you better be god damn grateful for those lemons. I made a quick decision to go for it. The energy was back. I packed my bags in 10 minutes. Paid the hotel, bought a few necessities and by 11 am, I was on my way.

 

Majestic Stupa after leaving Namche

The trail is marked throughout

This decision also meant that I'm focusing on getting to the next campsite and don't care about the lack of views. The weather seemed to be turning in my favor.. for a total of 20 minutes.

I had Dole in my mind but plan B was a campsite called Phortse Thenga should the weather go south and ..it went south spectacularly.

It snowed even more than what had led me to decide to just stay in Namche. Moreover, I kept telling people that I want to go to Phortse all the while thinking its the place where the route splits.

It is NOT.

Kyanjuma is where the trail splits. Not Phortse. My source had told me he stayed in Phortse while skipping Namche. That was bad intel.

After you take the split for Gokyo, you incessantly climb until you reach Mong La village. ~4000m altitude. That was a lot of climbing while it was already snowing hard. I kept going because what's the second option? Until Mong the climb is quite consistent with the stairs being the worst part as they give your quadriceps very little respite. 

At Kyanjuma, I had asked a guide about the best approach and he suggested I climb to Mong, eat lunch and then descend to Phortse Thenga. 

Please note. Phortse thenga and Phortse arent the same. Phortse is not on the way to Dole/Gokyo, however if you do end up in Phortse mistakenly, there is a way to Dole.

I reached Kyanjuma in an hour from Namche. An hour and half from there I was in Mong.

Mong must have nice views I imagined since it is so high up without other mountains secluding its view. Maybe I'll see it on my way back because today all I see is white on the land, white in the sky. Today is the day I get from Point A to Point B.

I had a nice lunch at Mong along with the famous garlic soup (which is supposed to cure AMS). There I might a British trekker who was on his way back from Macchermo and was staying the night at Dole. He had completed the 3-passes route and was on his way back, from what I remember he told me, it was his 16th day of hiking. 

 

After a long lunch break, I moved towards Phortse Thenga which is at a steep descent from Mong. 

Since there was snow and slush, I had to be very careful in descending, however, I was in Phortse Thenga in an hour (which is also what the notice board tells you in Mong). At the initial part of Phortse Thenga, there are two teahouses and seeing some smoke billow out of the chimney of one of them, I decided to halt there. 

I was cold and the snow kept piling on with every passing minute.

The rest of the day was just spent looking outside the window where its snowing relentlessly, while I sip a nice cup of chai by the warm chimney.

 

Looking back at the day, my mind steeped into relief and realizations. If I did not decide to walk today (which was ultimately due to a false relief in the weather), I would probably have a hard time reaching Gokyo Ri given that I have to fly back on 27th March.

Anticipating what is going to happen weather wise tomorrow is a waste of time. I'll adapt and change my plan. 

The teahouse I stayed at was run by two sisters who happily rented me the single room that they had available. I called it a day quite early to be prepared for the big effort for the next day. 

Mission Macchermo.

22nd March Phortse Thenga to Macchermo

I woke up to a gorgeous picture perfect weather with the sun beaming in the valley on a snow soaked horizon.
Since I estimated a hike of around 5-6 hours today, I started a bit late, around 9 after eating a nice warm breakfast.

The trail from Phortse Thenga to Dole initially goes a bit lower and then constantly climbs up. I was spellbound by the sheer size of the mountains in my vicinity, shining like diamonds with the sun on them. 

For a good half an hour, I had a smile on my face. This was a first for me. Being around mountains so huge and proximal. I have always believed that mountains are climbed with your soul. Your muscles are important but the driver is the soul. 

Seeing the wonders of the world around me instilled more energy in me than just the determination of climbing a peak.

Within a few minutes of Phortse Thenga, you reach the TIMS (Trekker info management system) checkpost where you submit your permit and passport details.

Phortse Thenga is at around 3600m and Dole is 4100m. I took it really slow since I was wary of the altitude gain. After all, my main goal for today was Macchermo which stands at 4400m. I was playing the long game. From past experiences, I know better than to be penny wise and pound foolish.

Speaking of foolish, after leaving the TIMS checkpost behind (around a couple of km), I realized I don't have my right hand glove. After a 30 second facepalm, I decided not to go back for it since I had been climbing up since then. Also, knowing myself, I had a better, thicker pair of gloves in my backpack for backup.

Since it was relatively warm (and If I'm honest, some laziness), I proceeded with only one glove.

I reached Dole around 11 AM where I decided to grab an early lunch for the push to Macchermo.

The route from Dole to Macchermo is also a constant ascent but it's not anything extreme. At least, that's what the wisdom of the few articles I had read about the route had told me.

The air got noticeably colder as I gained altitude. For most of today's walk, I was by myself and if it not had been for the foot marks, I would've had some trouble finding the right trail at some places.

Overall, its not rocket science. Whichever way the river is flowing, go the opposite.

I arrived at Luza while already a little winded from the altitude and had trouble finding the way ahead but a shepherd pointed me in the right direction. The trail keeps going along a wooden fence and climbs higher.

The wind started picking up and my hand without the glove started to hurt. Well, it had been hurting for some time but when it stopped hurting was when I was really worried. Being too pre-occupied with being on the right trail, I had forgotten to take care of my very important limb.
I hurriedly put on my backup gloves and walked on. I could feel a little low energy since I was losing patience with reaching there but eventually..

After a total of 4.5 hours of hiking from Phortse Thenga, I was at Macchermo. There was a final ridge that I had to climb and the campsite was below the ridge with multiple teahouses and their "branding" done on their roof . Since at Dole I had got a tip-off about the best and cheapest place to stay, I was able to spot the teahouse for today easily.

There are around 7-8 teahouses that I could spot in Macchermo due to the dense fog conditions.

I put my backpack down and immediately huddled around the warm chimney and asked for.. another garlic soup. "When I'm back home, I'll definitely research if Garlic does indeed help you with AMS or if its a placebo like nature based medicines tend to be." is what I thought while slurrping the soup.

I met an Israeli couple in the teahouse who informed me that better weather is forecasted for the next few days. They had climbed Gokyo Ri the day before with microspikes and were lucky enought to have clear skies when they summited.

I was now thinking about how pivotal was that moment when in Namche I decided to peek out of the window before going to sleep. A small decision which seemed foolish after literally 30 minutes and was really not. 

No way I could have done - Namche to Macchermo. Maybe I was aware of that fact all along and my impulse to hike in snow was indeed just me giving in to my subconscious judgement. I sometimes wonder if there are more people out there who have skills which are clouded by their inconfidence. Most certainly there must be.

I spent most of my time in Macchermo glued to the chimney. There was no longer any cellphone network and all you could do is think about what you want to eat next. Thinking about what would the next day be like is an exercise in futility.

Before going to bed, the sky cleared up and i could click some nice pictures of the night sky.

March 23 Macchermo to gokyo

I'm under 3 blankets with a warm water bottle on my feet.

But that is not how this day began.

In Macchermo, I didn't get much sleep due to intense headache. I woke up feeling drained so I took my time with the breakfast. It also did not help that there were sub-zero conditions and every liquid had frozen, including that of my contact lens. I had to put my lens into boiling water to have it usable again. 

I left Macchermo at 10 AM, knowing I would not have much energy all day. I decided to take half a diamox to improve my acclimatization.

Due to the intense cold there was ice on the initial trail. I slipped once and then wondered if that's what the day is going to be like. Slipping on ice hurt my wrist but the real pain was that of my ego being hurt. Sticks and stones may break my bones...

After an hour, I reached Phanga which is a very small campsite of a couple of homestays over a vast flat land. Phanga is actually a bit of a descent from Macchermo. 

Today I hiked with a headache and some doubt. One thing is clear to me now, that I am doing a remote trek in not exactly hiking season. I decided to be cautious about my SpO2 levels and hydration.

At one point i realized I'm getting closer and closer to the river. Meaning that the lake couldn't be that far away. Pretty soon, I could see a long staircase leading to a bridge on the left flank while the river kept getting noisier. I assumed it is the entry to Gokyo village.

But it wasn't. So I gave up the expectation of ever reaching Gokyo and focused on the challenge at hand.

Eventually, The climb got steeper and then ended into a vast moraine.

I saw the first lake and was mesmerised by its beauty. Albeit, gokyo was nowhere in sight which was very disappointing for me. I was struggling to walk on even level land now. There was absolutely nobody on the trail except for me even today and if the trail didn't have multiple markings (Cairns, footsteps, beaten trails) I would be in a spot of bother.

To add to my misery, I realized I left my gopro all the way back to the first lake starting point. 500 Euros.. plus the SD Card and ALL the picture I had taken so far. You can't put a price on memories. 

Even if you're barely breathing, you run. You run imagining all the worst case scenarios of some guide/porter/tourist taking your GoPro from whatever God they believe in.

Until this point I was dragging my feet in cold weather. Now after leaving my backpack at a safe place (bang on the trail), I decided to sprint for the gopro. I had some idea of where I could have left it. I had stopped somewhere to rest and my fuzzy memory recollected putting my gopro in snow. 

Halfway through, I realized that my backpack was also free to be taken where I had left it but I just assumed it would be difficult to just hide so nobody would take it. GoPro on the other hand can just slide in your pocket. 

I wasted an hour in the search for my camera and found it where I thought I had left it. This drained whatever energy I had left. I was now also beginning to cough a little bit which I expected to happen.

Despite the fiasco, It took me a total of 4 hours to get to Gokyo which to my surprise is a bigger campsite than Macchermo.

The lake is beautiful and blue. Although it was half frozen. Today I also had a recommendation (a free stay offer) from a teahouse owner I had met in Phanga.

Still very tired and bothered by my headache, I ended up in the lodge and somehow managed to not sleep. I also bought a wifi card and logged in via everest link.

The caretake of the lodge was very kind. She saw I was worried so she kept getting me water and food, also tucked me in a blanket which was very motherly. 

At this point, I had serious doubts about my condition. My mind was in contingency mode. For instance, I had already collected information of a nearby clinic (yes, there's a clinic in Gokyo). I had no dexamethasone (steroid for severe AMS, life saving) and I had no supplemental oxygen. There was a helicopter recovery option but that costs you one kidney. 

That's the thing about problems. The closer you look at them the bigger they get.

However, with the amazing care and hospitality, I felt a little better in the second half of the day. I was also the solitary guest in the homestay.
I had the usual dal bhat (along with another diamox) and called it a day. Which brings me to now, to the cosy bed with warm water bottles on my feet.

I still don't know how this night is going to be.. but yeah I'll deal with it.

24th March Gokyo to Gokyo Ri to Macchermo

Diamox did its thing. 

I feared the worst night of the trek yet. Instead, I slept nice and deep. No nightmares, no headache keeping me up all night.

With the exception of waking up once since I was too warm and had to layer down, I had absolutely no difficulties sleeping.

Gokyo was freezing cold in the morning, somehow the morning was colder than the night. When I woke up, my lens solution was liquid, 20 minutes later it was a Bausch and Laumb ice cream.

I put my contact lens case in boiling water to defrost it. Such extreme was the cold. I drank a lot of hot water to defrost myself too. Since I felt fine, I decided to not ask the teahouse caretaker to come with me. Well, she convinced me by telling me that I have nothing. Oh, the power of encouragement, my manager at work can take a cue. 

I believed in myself again, I looked out of the window from where I can see the towering gokyo ri with zig zag trails going all the way into the clouds. 600m, 1.5 km. I took a big sigh and nodded my head in approval. 

"Lets do this"

Another oatmeal breakfast and I was all set at 8 am to climb a literal wall like mountain.

I took my backpack with some water, snacks and a backup fleece jacket.

The trail starts right from the edge of the lake and climbs up in a very steep zig zag manner. Even though it is very steep, the trail is created in such a way that you can climb fast or gradual depending on your condition.

I chose a mix and match approach. My strategy was also to not think about how much is left and what altitude I'm at. 

After a certain point when the air got really thin, I started the 15 steps 20 breaths strategy.

There was a hiker behind me who had caught up with me really fast but soon I noticed I couldnt find him anymore.

I kept an intentional ultra low pace, fuelled by a lot of self motivation ("Come on Prashant!") and visualization of reaching the peak. All the while I was climbing, the view of the Gokyo lakes kept getting better. Looking down, I could also see cracks in the frozen part of the lake which seemed like a really large emerald broken mirror. 

I reached Gokyo Ri in roughly 2.5 hours and was greeted by a Slovakian national "Welcome to the view of the king and queen my friend!". The king and queen in question were Mt. Everest (8848m) and Lhotse Peak (8516m). Both peaks had a solitary cloud hanging over them making it indeed seem like a crown. The weather was clear and there were no other clouds in vicinity. 

I did it. I climbed Gokyo Ri. But that didn't matter in that moment. How I got there was of no significance anymore. It was just the moment I was waiting for since a long, long time. It was a perfect poetic moment imbued in a picture created by nature. A solitary bird was gliding, almost still in the air right in my eye-level. Almost like a gatekeeper to a different realm.

I trodded on to the other side of the peak and could see Cho Oyu peak (8188m; Tibet occupied China).

I marveled at the beauty of these formidable mountains. Sometime many years ago, eurasian tectonic plates collided with Indian plates to form these mountains of monstrosity in size.

Many years later, somehow, it became a symbol of reverence, peace and hope for many.

After spending half an hour at an approximate altitude of 5380m, making it my highest climb ever, I decided to descend since the weather started to deteriorate. Descending wasn't a cakewalk either and it took me an hour and half to safely come back to Gokyo.

A hearty victory lunch later, I was off to Macchermo.

Unfortunately, the weather worsened and I had almost forgotten how many times I had to descend from Macchermo to Gokyo. Twice. Once before Phanga and another time before the main Macchermo flag post.

Already tired from the climb to Gokyo Ri, I had a hard time reaching Macchermo. Nevertheless I was there in 2.5 hours of slogging through hiking literally in the clouds. I was now having what people call "Khumbu cough".

Lot of life lessons today.

Look at the brighter side of things.
Dont underestimate yourself.
Listen to people who believe in you.
Blow your nose often while climbing in sub zero conditions.
Garlic soup saves lives.
Respect the altitude.
10 steps 10 breaths is magical.
Never give up, keep hanging on to whatever source of hope that is available.

The lady at the lodge I stayed in Gokyo took really good care of me. Gave me hot water, talked to me about my fear of catching severe AMS, told me that I'll easily make it. 

I'm not usually a big tipper but I gave her a nice tip.

My good luck while hiking continues. The weather cleared up at exactly the right time. My body acclimated exactly at the right time. I had no issues in finding the trail.

I did it!

More than a year of no hiking. Living in a sea level altitude country who's idea of high mountains is the Alps. Where 500m speed breakers are called "Mountains". Okay, okay, that was a little cocky I get it. But I totally mean it. 

All the self doubt and I overcame it. I think everyone needs a reminder every now and then of who they really are. And I am many things in life but what I am the most is a traveler. 

To quote Walter Mitty : 

"To see the world, things dangerous to come to, to see behind walls, draw closer, to find each other, and to feel. That is the purpose of life."

Tomorrow I hike to Namche, back to the city of the mountains. Back to the Irish pub. 

As per what I've been told, it takes around 6 hours from Macchermo to Namche which I seriously doubt. Going downhill is easy, hence, the lesser time - is what most guides I met had told me. 

At the moment there is no snow and looking at the skies it doesn't seem like there will be anytime soon, which makes for an easy hike tomorrow.

Maybe I could make it interesting and take an alternative route? There's a way through Khumjung where Hilary started a school.

25th March Macchermo to Namche

I bid adieu to Macchermo after a relatively early start by my standards. 8 am. The walk back is often difficult but I knew I was in for a ride today. 

Since it didn't snow since a couple of days, the trail was very muddy and slippery. The trail went downhill for a while until it climbs back up to the village Phanga. From there to Dole was a mix of gradual ascent and a quick elevation drop. You also cross a village called Lhafarma on your way down.

I saw a few trekkers heading the wrong direction to avoid the main muddy trail. I could instantly realize they had no clue where they were going and signaled them to join the main trail instead.

I took a breather in Dole and then marched on to Phortse Thenga. My 3rd day's halt. Before phortse there is a security checkpost where you're supposed to register in "Out". The walk was very pleasant all the way till Thenga, however, I was now beginning to get tired of the descent. It was now beginning to strike me the amount of climb I had achieved in the past few days, maybe the snow helped after all, eclipsing the distances by giving me no visual point of reference. 

What really punished me was the climb back to Mong. After all the fatigue of the trek, after all the knee jerking descent, Mong seems even more difficult than Gokyo Ri itself. It really didn't help that there were still very few hikers on the trail. Misery is easier when you have more people around you, preferably more miserable than you. 

I didn't stop at Mong this time since the weather was getting bad again. Also, I was, for some reason angry towards Mong for being at an inconvenient altitude. I'm a rational man but hey, I have my moments. 

The descent after Mong was initially steep due to the stairs but then gradual, but might I add, quite long. 

Eventually, via Sanasa I reached Namche bazaar around 4 pm.

There was a sense of elation at what seemed like the end of the trek. I checked in the same hotel in which I had stayed before and thanked the hotel manager for giving me great advice for the hike. I also treated myself to some nice food and a hot shower.

Mar 26 Namche to Lukla

Contrary to what I had imagined, today was a long day as well.

I started from Namche leisurely as usual, at 9 am. In my mind, I wanted to walk really slow because there's nothing I was really looking forward to in Lukla. Also, my legs had some level of soreness at this point, the descent yesterday and the day before was brutal. 

Walking back, my mind was full of thoughts, still processing the events of the past few days. As the air got richer in Oxygen again, I felt more and more energetic. I saw Mt. Everest, really really close that's something that I kept digesting in my head as I walked back. 

Wherever I felt the views were great, I sat and had something to drink.

I reached Manjoo in a couple of hours and Phakding an hour later where I also grabbed lunch.

What I noticed was the huge inflow of trekkers coming in hordes from the opposite direction. I didn't even plan it but I did the hike in the best possible time there is for me -

A week before the "season".

Sure I had to walk in snow and on slippery mud but I'll take that over ruining my precious, precious solitude. Too much solitude at times but you can't always get what you want. 

I gradually decided to pick up my pace since I was beginning to get hungry and didn't want to eat anywhere else but at Lukla. Momentum is precious in hiking, especially if you're tired like I was. 

You take a meal, you start from the beginning. 

I walked quite fast from thereon, only stopping to take a breather.

It didn't help that the last part of the hike is a climb to Lukla from 2580m at Phakding to 2810m. At this point, I was imagining a nice cozy hotel, perhaps a ginger lemon honey while sitting in a warm café.

Overcoming all the frustration and impatience, I reached Lukla at 4 pm.

Once I crossed the Sagarmatha national park gate, I did a fist bump to the air and exclaimed 

"Its done!" 

I quickly checked in to a lodge near the airport, showered and then ventured out in Lukla while reminiscing about everything I saw.

Towering mountains, beautiful valleys and really difficult climbs.

I thought about the privileged life I have and felt an immense sense of gratitude for being able to do what I do.

I felt gratitude towards everyone in my life supportive of this passion of mine.

Hiking is a sport above everything else. A non competitive sport and I'm glad I have the experience of dealing with challenges due to my many past adventures (and misadventures).
While its true that in the lap of nature, you're dependent on luck quite often but good preparedness can go a long way in making all the difference.

That decision to pop a diamox at Macchermo turned the tables for me.
If it didn't work, I was prepared to return. Even if it meant having a disappointment of spending all that time, money and effort for non completion of my objective.

Better disappointed alive than overambitious and dead.

Its a delicate line. You can't climb high peaks with fear in your heart. You need to hope like you've never hoped before. Also, you need to be cognizant of what your body tells you.

The morning of the summit, fueled by a great night of sleep which was fueled by Diamox, I believed I could go that high. 

By myself. 

Talking to other hikers I realized that a high proportion were returning from close to their pursuit of EBC. Some had plans to complete the 3 passes but bailed due to AMS.

Some were too late in going back and suffered severe AMS. I met a Danish guy who had to come back from Lobuche (4900m) on the back of a mule. There was even one fatality in EBC. 

These thoughts dominated my mind while I looked back at my experience from a cozy coffee shop in Lukla, enjoying a double shot cappuccino and a delicious carrot cake.

Until the next adventure!