Blast from the past : Roopkund Lake Trek Oct 2014
Day 1 - 26th September - Pune to Delhi flight
The journey began on a very sour note.
I had intense stomach pain.
I hadn't had food since afternoon.
I hadn't had food since afternoon.
Felt so much abdominal pain that I felt delusional.
I thought about abandoning the trek and going to a hospital but I held on.
I kept sweating profusely and the airport guard saw it as "suspicious".
It wasn't that hot. It wasn't hot at all.
I thought about abandoning the trek and going to a hospital but I held on.
I kept sweating profusely and the airport guard saw it as "suspicious".
It wasn't that hot. It wasn't hot at all.
Fortunately, the problem auto-resolved after having food. I still felt weak and disoriented.
Forgot toiletries, cell charger and ear phones in Pune.
The flight landed on schedule and I took an auto to Anand Vihar Terminal.
Day 2 - 27th September - Delhi to Kathgodam and beyond
I
reached way before boarding time, as a result of which I had to sleep
on the floor in the waiting room, which wasn't as bad as my previous
experiences with railway waiting rooms (mice and all).
I made a pillow out of my thick cotton jacket and slept for an hour or so.
Boarded the train on time.
I made a pillow out of my thick cotton jacket and slept for an hour or so.
Boarded the train on time.
I reached Kathgodam around 11:35 AM.
On reaching, I hired a cab (alto) to Almora.
The cabs go only as far as Almora even though I had to go further.
The driver was a very enthusiastic guy, drove pretty much like I do in Pune.
The problem was, Garhwal is no Pune and there are ghats.
He had a brand new Maruti Alto 800 which he drove like a Ferrari.
Picked up and dropped many people on the way, everyone seemed to know him.
That's the thing about remote places. Everyone knows everyone.
He had a brand new Maruti Alto 800 which he drove like a Ferrari.
Picked up and dropped many people on the way, everyone seemed to know him.
That's the thing about remote places. Everyone knows everyone.
Thanks to his enthusiasm to drop me on time, I puked all the way to Garud due to motion sickness.
Stopped at a place near Bhimtal to have lunch .
It was delicious, Mutter Paneer and cheap too! (35INR)
I felt really weak and had fears creeping in my head. I could eat nothing on 27th.
I finally landed at a remote village called Garud and spent the night in a VERY shady looking room (it was cheap, 150 bucks)
Expenses in INR :
Delhi auto to anvt 400
Tip to irctc 20
Haldwani to almora 250
Food 50+40+10+57
Almora to garud 150
Room at garud 150
Food at garud 60
Toiletries 90
Charger 80
Avomin 18
Delhi auto to anvt 400
Tip to irctc 20
Haldwani to almora 250
Food 50+40+10+57
Almora to garud 150
Room at garud 150
Food at garud 60
Toiletries 90
Charger 80
Avomin 18
Total expenses this day : 1375
Day 3 - 28th September - Garud to Gwaldam to Tharali to Lohajung to Wan
Woke up to a chilly morning at Garud. Garud is a nice peaceful village/town.
There were sweet shops and departmental stores on the road I was waiting on for the bus.
Uttarakhand roadways bus from Garud to Gwaldam got canceled.
There were sweet shops and departmental stores on the road I was waiting on for the bus.
Uttarakhand roadways bus from Garud to Gwaldam got canceled.
Consequently, I traveled in multiple shared jeeps from Garud to Gwaldam to Dewal and then to Wan.
Thankfully, I didn't puke today. The drivers were not insane this time.
On reaching Wan, fixed guide cum porter @ 660 per day including sleeping bag.
The guide's name - Khilap Singh which I mistook for Khilao Singh.
Funny thing, he looked really hungry. Maybe that's why.
The guide's name - Khilap Singh which I mistook for Khilao Singh.
Funny thing, he looked really hungry. Maybe that's why.
I
hiked very little today, around 30 mins to a place called "Rankadhar",
stayed in a small remote lodge there, owned and maintained by Khilap and
his brother Umrao.
Very homely, there was a hall with 5 beds. I slept in the kitchen because the hall was over run with people smoking weed and I didn't want to become a hot box user.
Very homely, there was a hall with 5 beds. I slept in the kitchen because the hall was over run with people smoking weed and I didn't want to become a hot box user.
Expenses in INR:
Jeep to Gwaldam - 50
Had tea - 7
Had breakfast at gwaldam 60
Galdam to tharali 50
Tharali to Dewal 30
Bought Sun screen at dewal 80
Dewal to Wan 100
Food at dewal 15
Food at wan 60
Total expense for today 432
Jeep to Gwaldam - 50
Had tea - 7
Had breakfast at gwaldam 60
Galdam to tharali 50
Tharali to Dewal 30
Bought Sun screen at dewal 80
Dewal to Wan 100
Food at dewal 15
Food at wan 60
Day 4 - 29th September - Wan (2520m) to Bedni Bugyal (3354m) :
I had a peaceful nights sleep but super chilly morning at Rankadhar.
Got freshened up, had tea, lots of tea. People of that area drink tea a lot.
I was about to tell them that tea causes dehydration and might cause them cramps but hey, they're smoking weed till the top.
Tea is not going to bother them.
I was about to tell them that tea causes dehydration and might cause them cramps but hey, they're smoking weed till the top.
Tea is not going to bother them.
I
had the plan in my head to hike till Pathar Nachauni today. It seemed
doable, though I had little idea of what doable meant at this altitude. I had no idea of what lied ahead in terms of difficulty. All I had was the will to reach the top.
The plan was to maintain a steady pace. Listen to my body and focus my mind on walking. No sprints just steady decent pace.
Slow and steady.
The plan was to maintain a steady pace. Listen to my body and focus my mind on walking. No sprints just steady decent pace.
Slow and steady.
I had a very decent speed as per my guide.
We started trekking at 815 AM and reached Bedni Bugyal at 1145 AM.
3 hours 30 minutes was very decent for this amount of distance at this altitude.
I frequently applied a lot of sunscreen to not get sun burned this time (like I did in Sandakphu).
What this resulted in was pictures in which I'm looking like a ghost with powder on his face.
Sat and ate biscuits at Ghairoli Patal while my guide smoked up merrily.
I frequently applied a lot of sunscreen to not get sun burned this time (like I did in Sandakphu).
What this resulted in was pictures in which I'm looking like a ghost with powder on his face.
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| The great ghost of Roopkund |
Sat and ate biscuits at Ghairoli Patal while my guide smoked up merrily.
I agreed but kept doubting his intentions.
I had all the time in the world to reach Pathar Nachauni.
I had all the time in the world to reach Pathar Nachauni.
Took lot of breaks on the way.
Steep incline with a level walk at the end.
Steep incline with a level walk at the end.
I spent all day just wandering in the endless meadows of Bedni Bugyal.
Clicking lots of pictures of the landscape, selfies and what not.
Clicking lots of pictures of the landscape, selfies and what not.
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| Ghanta! |
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| This is a toilet tent. Talk about Royal shit! |
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| Thank you auto-timer! |
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| Cozy in the tent @ Bedni |
The next days plan was a bit spectacular.
Bedni to Pathar Nachauni to Roopkund to Pathar Nachauni.
I felt up for it.
Expenses:
Paid rankaghanti lodge 180 including dinner and breakfast
Total expenses : 180 bucks
Day 5 - 30th September - Bedni Bugyal (3354m) to Pathar Nachauni (3658m) to Bhagwabasa (4375m) to Roopkund (4844m) back to Pathar Nachauni (3658m)
The night before was really tough.
My sleeping bag was inadequate and some animal was shaking my tent.
I dreaded a bear.
It was a dog.
Had breakfast which consisted of Potato dish with Tandoori Roti.
There were a bunch of Americans with me in the dhaba.
They were hardcore trekkers, had plans to trek continuously for a month.
I told them of my earlier trek, Sandakphu and they were pretty impressed.
I bid adieu to them, wished them luck and continued my journey.
Reached Pathar Nachauni and left for kalu vinayak.
The climb was very steep and I had to take a lot of breaks.
My sleeping bag was inadequate and some animal was shaking my tent.
I dreaded a bear.
It was a dog.
Had breakfast which consisted of Potato dish with Tandoori Roti.
There were a bunch of Americans with me in the dhaba.
They were hardcore trekkers, had plans to trek continuously for a month.
I told them of my earlier trek, Sandakphu and they were pretty impressed.
I bid adieu to them, wished them luck and continued my journey.
Reached Pathar Nachauni and left for kalu vinayak.
The climb was very steep and I had to take a lot of breaks.
I kept drinking water every time I stopped to take a breather.
 |
| Just KEEP DRINKING WATER. H2O. O for Oxygen. |
Kalu vinayak to bhagwabasa was a stroll.
It
had started snowing by the time I reached Kalu Vinayak. I felt a little
bit of AMS but it went away soon as I kept drinking water.
Bhagwabasa was completely covered in snow and the temperature dipped pretty sharply.
It was the coldest I've ever felt in my life. There was snow everywhere.
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| Kalu Vinayak, First encounter with Snow here. Puffy face due to Peripheral Edema. Its an AMS thing. |
It was the coldest I've ever felt in my life. There was snow everywhere.
From Bhagwabasa, Roopkund lake was 3 km.
I had just a couple of packets of biscuits and moved on for the final push.
I greatly underestimated the next 3 kms.
I greatly underestimated the next 3 kms.
It started snowing heavily.
I felt like I'm dying at one point.
It felt like I had made my final mistake. This happened when I was half a kilometer from the summit.
We all have those moments in life when we stop doing what we're doing and ask ourselves.. "Why exactly am I doing this?"
I had this moment there and I didn't have an answer.
I felt like I'm in some Hollywood flick where people get stranded in Alaska or Siberia.
There was nothing but snow for as far as I can see.
I had plenty of self doubt then.
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| Snow, Snow all around |
I pulled myself forward with all my might, like never before.
Was it the cold? Was it the height?
No, I could breathe fine. Wasn't the height.
My mind drifted. I overcame it by focusing really hard on my objective.
Was it the cold? Was it the height?
No, I could breathe fine. Wasn't the height.
My mind drifted. I overcame it by focusing really hard on my objective.
I reached Roopkund at 4:15pm which is very late. Ideally, one should be reaching Roopkund early morning to get the best views but I had other ideas.
Started descending after taking a few really cool pictures :
Descended to Bhagwabasa by 5 pm
Reached Pathar Nachauni by 7:30 pm thanks to the torch light.
Started descending after taking a few really cool pictures :
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| The longest 0.5 Km of my life. I'm visible exhausted. |
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| Heaven like view coming back from Roopkund |
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| Can you spot me in the background? |
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| Looking back at Roopkund |
 | ||
My Rocky moment!
|
Descended to Bhagwabasa by 5 pm
Reached Pathar Nachauni by 7:30 pm thanks to the torch light.
When I reached Bhagwabasa, every other trekker there was surprised I did it.
Bedni to Roopkund and back to Pathar Nachauni in a day.
The other guides and locals had written me off, told me its not doable for a city boy.
Bedni to Roopkund and back to Pathar Nachauni in a day.
The other guides and locals had written me off, told me its not doable for a city boy.
I was feeling proud of myself but the hallucinations brought some things to my notice.
The endless snow covered terrain gave me an idea of what loneliness might look like if it were to be visually represented.
A foggy cold place with nobody to help. No sound. No stimulus.
Expenses :
Paid for food and tent at Bedni - 500 bucks
Day 6 - 1st October - Return to Bedni Bugyal - Rankadhar
I started descending to Bedni Bugyal at around 9:15 AM.
I had plenty of selfie sessions and a stopover at Ghairoli Patal.
Met a lot of trekker who gave me hi-fives and salutes for completing Roopkund.
I can understand their point of view. They had been toiling for days to reach where I was just coming back from.
I felt proud of myself. No high in the world can substitute this. The high of success!
Met a lot of trekker who gave me hi-fives and salutes for completing Roopkund.
I can understand their point of view. They had been toiling for days to reach where I was just coming back from.
I felt proud of myself. No high in the world can substitute this. The high of success!
Descended to bedni bugyal had a cup of tea and then left for wan .
On the way, I had forgotten there is still considerable climb to come till Rankadhar.
On top of it all, it started raining cats and dogs. Got drenched and felt extremely cold.
Survived it, reached Rankadhar and took halt for the night.
 |
| Drenched, drained, numb |
The trek was over.
I did it. All by myself. If anything changed with this experience, it would be a tiny bit of increased self respect.
I did it. All by myself. If anything changed with this experience, it would be a tiny bit of increased self respect.
Expenses :
Paid 500 @ pathar nachauni for
Tea, dinner and breakfast
Day 7 - 2nd October - Wan to Delhi
Descended down to wan by 8 am. Boarded shared jeep till Dewal.
Took multiple shared jeeps from there to Tharali bend to Karnaprayag to Rishikesh
Expenses in INR:
Paid guide (2400 for 4 days) +lodging and food at Rankadhar (250) + sleeping bag rent
(200) = 2850
Paid jeep 150 for wan to tharali bend
Paid jeep 100 for tharali to karanprayag
Food at karanprayag 70
Jeep to rishikesh 330
Dinner at rishikesh 300
Bus to Delhi 700
Food at stop over at Muzaffarnagar 216
Paid jeep 150 for wan to tharali bend
Paid jeep 100 for tharali to karanprayag
Food at karanprayag 70
Jeep to rishikesh 330
Dinner at rishikesh 300
Bus to Delhi 700
Food at stop over at Muzaffarnagar 216
Total trek expense wan to wan = 3410
Day 8 - 3rd October - Delhi stay
Reached Delhi, crashed at a friends place.
Spent an entire day gaming and listening to him explaining his work.
He also forcibly took me to a small school reunion.
I think people there could make out my disinterest. I had no intentions in hiding it either.
I do admit. I was feeling weird being in civilization and around people.
Spent an entire day gaming and listening to him explaining his work.
He also forcibly took me to a small school reunion.
I think people there could make out my disinterest. I had no intentions in hiding it either.
I do admit. I was feeling weird being in civilization and around people.
Expenses:
Flavoured milk 40
Food at cp 400
Metro 40
Iced tea 50
Food at cp 400
Metro 40
Iced tea 50
Day 9 - 4th October - Delhi to Mumbai
My journey ended.
I boarded the train to Mumbai.
Something that felt so difficult had been achieved with relative ease.
The train coach I was in, was full of kids.
Also, since it was a chair car, it was hellishly difficult to sleep.
Also, the train AC was so damn strong that I had to put my jacket back on. In Delhi.
Everything said and done, I have learned things about myself.
I feel it's not enough. I need to learn more. I need more answers.
I feel like I'll find something concrete eventually. There has been some level of catharsis but more questions than answers.
I shall keep looking.
Expenses
I boarded the train to Mumbai.
Something that felt so difficult had been achieved with relative ease.
The train coach I was in, was full of kids.
Also, since it was a chair car, it was hellishly difficult to sleep.
Also, the train AC was so damn strong that I had to put my jacket back on. In Delhi.
Everything said and done, I have learned things about myself.
I feel it's not enough. I need to learn more. I need more answers.
I feel like I'll find something concrete eventually. There has been some level of catharsis but more questions than answers.
I shall keep looking.
Expenses
Dinner in train 140
Auto to station 80
Biscuits 55
Tea 10
Auto to station 80
Biscuits 55
Tea 10
Day 10 - Mumbai to Pune:
Reached Mumbai and left for Pune.
Expenses:
Expenses:
Volvo - 500
Auto from Pune station to Viman Nagar - 100
Total trip expense = 9018
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