tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-446896301588967732024-03-14T00:18:47.385-07:00Travel scribblesPrashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-53343508068196125602023-05-08T14:27:00.001-07:002023-05-18T04:30:36.031-07:00Gokyo Ri - A date with Mount Everest<h2 style="text-align: left;">18th March Delhi to Kathmandu</h2><p>Time flies. </p><p>It's been more than a year since I last hiked in the Himalayas. Life has changed a lot since then, for the better. <br />For as long as I can remember, climbing mountains have mostly been a way for me to cope with difficult life situations. It's different when you hike out of some kind of spite towards humanity compared to just doing it for the love of the mountains.</p><p>I have erred a bit on both sides of that equation from time to time.</p><p>The plan was a bit outlandish in itself, flying from Germany to India and then, the very next day flying to Kathmandu. The time difference is not much (4.5 hours without daylight saving) but it still messes with your sleep routine. </p><p>But here I am, on a flight to Kathmandu, heavily sleep deprived and honestly a little unsure of what next.</p><p>I've been hiking for close to a decade now but those pre-hike jitters never really goes away. It is an endless loop of what could go wrong in your head. </p><p>Like for instance, knowing that flights are getting cancelled from Kathmandu to Lukla and having no idea when you'll actually be able to start hiking. All this while having a fixed departure back to Delhi. </p><p>And in the middle of this uncertainty is an unexplainable feeling. "It'll be alright". Maybe my subconscious mind knows more than I give it credit for. Maybe it is just multiple layers of previous experiences buried down in me somewhere, propping up only when summoned. </p><p>My plan is nothing short of ambitious. </p><p>Dusseldorf to Frankfurt. <br />Frankfurt to Delhi<br />Delhi to Kathmandu<br />Kathmandu to Lukla..</p><p>.. and then I hike close to 92 kms and climb close to 5400m altitude</p><p></p><p>It'll be alright. </p><p>With that spirit, I landed in Kathmandu with one eye open and the other on sleeping duty. Since I expected to face NPR cash issues, I made sure I have enough for the entirety of the trip. Not wanting to research on accommodation, I zeroed in on Zostel as my choice of stay. </p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">19th March Kathmandu to Lukla to Manjoo</h2><p></p><p>And it was alright!</p><p>I somehow managed a flight to Lukla albeit not without my share of unwanted suspense. The domestic flight setup in Nepal is nothing sort of shambolic. But one of the rare perks of traveling solo is that there is a 50% chance of having a single seat vacant. </p><p>50% is a really good number. </p><p>The flight to Lukla is an adventure in itself with the landing strip that is barely visible from the tiny planes that land on it. Not too long ago there was an incident in Pokhara with a similar plane. Most passengers were very relieved once the plane landed. This is the ONE instance where I find it acceptable to clap for the pilot. </p><p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDHgG4irDYBBVz_lyGR0DDGYPEUwZEPFE9HhWRlK7kRdWleyGd-q1wy8ZLeeyV3iSsTkLxuiHF6_pPdbtq8-if8Zj-1WkirUVTk_hMWANYkfK6eYCduv8vrSNPjaS2N48VDH9Ba8cAKdAgw8BJNGBVJwUWNn21IEF-QshwUI22DXes8VW-kRmnE9lC/s3840/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-10h34m53s885.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDHgG4irDYBBVz_lyGR0DDGYPEUwZEPFE9HhWRlK7kRdWleyGd-q1wy8ZLeeyV3iSsTkLxuiHF6_pPdbtq8-if8Zj-1WkirUVTk_hMWANYkfK6eYCduv8vrSNPjaS2N48VDH9Ba8cAKdAgw8BJNGBVJwUWNn21IEF-QshwUI22DXes8VW-kRmnE9lC/s320/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-10h34m53s885.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Pocket sized plane</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <br /></p><p>I reached Lukla around 1025. </p><p>After trekker registration which is towards the trail, I started walking around 1100.</p><p>The trail was quite easy today but the first day hiking is always tricky, for me. I felt rickety and unsure of my footing but soon got into my rhythm and reached Phakding around Noon. The trail initially descends and then has a very gradual ascent. </p><p>The best thing about this hike is the abundance of food and water options. There was even an Irish pub playing "I was made for lovin' you" which I found fascinating and confusing at the same time. </p><p> </p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGRE0E6Q7kJwfnQud9MS_EAiz08YC5coKTlvi-KnRijvZHi7OpHC6AvkXfa0NMgR2S3XVUZCVtaihrephtoxDGnREP0d-IJBv5hqdbJ169xX5ywCsrWK6VHf_K0VOgBhYBJYViOrz342ZtjrJaB65I645st52BY_FRiPAy5WzT5QopDxfMwUbEL1PF/s3840/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-10h37m15s343.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGRE0E6Q7kJwfnQud9MS_EAiz08YC5coKTlvi-KnRijvZHi7OpHC6AvkXfa0NMgR2S3XVUZCVtaihrephtoxDGnREP0d-IJBv5hqdbJ169xX5ywCsrWK6VHf_K0VOgBhYBJYViOrz342ZtjrJaB65I645st52BY_FRiPAy5WzT5QopDxfMwUbEL1PF/s320/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-10h37m15s343.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Right outside Lukla "airport"<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2cG5iyhIVHoVXgvvzodxujumZIyczMqpOrywr0bm6mzPP0ZVb3yfG-kc1RCxIYxjJUH2GIYu4WznVZOkA1hrbFxEOuzvWEoyf92dI-cKUKKnwaSWJXJY9gvOZq1dgLeMUNYEIK-JUrc9neHtE7p4FeM5N47jf_1z0JkHCPaQRfitSzexJZj9BrX2Q/s3840/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-10h38m17s266.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2cG5iyhIVHoVXgvvzodxujumZIyczMqpOrywr0bm6mzPP0ZVb3yfG-kc1RCxIYxjJUH2GIYu4WznVZOkA1hrbFxEOuzvWEoyf92dI-cKUKKnwaSWJXJY9gvOZq1dgLeMUNYEIK-JUrc9neHtE7p4FeM5N47jf_1z0JkHCPaQRfitSzexJZj9BrX2Q/s320/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-10h38m17s266.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">en route to the checkpoint<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwRf6rBA5YWCZaKWX-BUFhdG_gKRbwXDQ99Iu9Ll7jdoAJVGEFNUQKtOuEQD5xTjSWCvZHL99hipAJat3PAEEWn1x2k0ycHJ9HYavUb9K-nYuzDZi2Kn_XwnVQyYGN_phXhFD-SoBgfSsHoVl6Rm6gX8KSJQ35k_QnDx2amqtaESTc8RS1HLLOuOHQ/s3840/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-10h38m36s687.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwRf6rBA5YWCZaKWX-BUFhdG_gKRbwXDQ99Iu9Ll7jdoAJVGEFNUQKtOuEQD5xTjSWCvZHL99hipAJat3PAEEWn1x2k0ycHJ9HYavUb9K-nYuzDZi2Kn_XwnVQyYGN_phXhFD-SoBgfSsHoVl6Rm6gX8KSJQ35k_QnDx2amqtaESTc8RS1HLLOuOHQ/s320/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-10h38m36s687.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Come on! Look candid! Look candid!<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </p><p>After a heavy lunch, I walked to Manjoo which is somewhat higher than Phakding and gives you a sampler of things to come. It is also a nice head start if you want to push further up from Namche Bazaar. </p><p>There are also a lot of wobbly Iron bridges on the way which I feel is an adventure in itself. As you progress, the bridges get higher and more picturesque. </p><p>I decided to call it a day when I reached Manjoo at 1530 at a hotel called "Summit".</p><p>The rest of the day was spent walking around Manjoo and checking out the trekker registration office for Sagarmatha National park. </p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJqW2VMNx68sF8k1k0jdmKXW0ycrJOC0XKFFcwCdn-IecftMtDMWXgZj682dUe4Gva38M_EDUXgPBwoMMZto2dqFNsycjr0HxCdmyu_UptPqUymIvEUvahFNtMRujAfzI4XTlxU0ekTIJNvqYvynBB-QGAQuqWCFr5PD8zmFsZD1LPzQFGrnvnZJB7/s3840/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-11h01m00s803.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJqW2VMNx68sF8k1k0jdmKXW0ycrJOC0XKFFcwCdn-IecftMtDMWXgZj682dUe4Gva38M_EDUXgPBwoMMZto2dqFNsycjr0HxCdmyu_UptPqUymIvEUvahFNtMRujAfzI4XTlxU0ekTIJNvqYvynBB-QGAQuqWCFr5PD8zmFsZD1LPzQFGrnvnZJB7/s320/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-11h01m00s803.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Stay for the day!<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></p><p>I decided to sleep early since I need the rest for the climb to Namche tomorrow.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">20th March Manjoo to Namche Bazaar</h2><p>After much thought, I decided for a change of strategy. </p><p>I am not doing the Everest base camp since it will be too much of a hectic hike schedule, not to mention the risks vis-a-vis the rapid elevation and the sheer effort. Apparently, I had gathered my information from someone who conveniently left out the part where he couldn't reach EBC and had to walk 50 km on one of the days. </p><p>And if it was a challenge, I would've tried it. But since I'm on a vacation after almost a year and half and my preference is not to have to fight for my life, I decided on hiking only Gokyo Ri. </p><p>Hence, I am trading my rest day at Macchermo for a gradual climbing approach. This way I'll be back at Lukla on 26th or earlier. If you have to fly out from Lukla, you need to reach Lukla one day before to confirm your booking. This is just how it works there. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUV86DlNK0fzZ3VPKPRyVW-reqAp0XR_Qee9657FSs7-zZUWbUzc1oHzyyI90SCC-IxvLFS_G_vhAhIqFFd_eGNovQY3EHTKyifC2qJs8-cuEXCSUEASOMJi54ZyQjZ2EiaZYijVINGOrnC-HYppoqlWWWL6m1ShZalykDAoUcgWEkVgp_mM2sDekJ/s3839/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-11h12m02s954.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3839" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUV86DlNK0fzZ3VPKPRyVW-reqAp0XR_Qee9657FSs7-zZUWbUzc1oHzyyI90SCC-IxvLFS_G_vhAhIqFFd_eGNovQY3EHTKyifC2qJs8-cuEXCSUEASOMJi54ZyQjZ2EiaZYijVINGOrnC-HYppoqlWWWL6m1ShZalykDAoUcgWEkVgp_mM2sDekJ/s320/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-11h12m02s954.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Sagarmatha national park entry - Permit point @ Manjoo<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/j49xybkbzG8" width="320" youtube-src-id="j49xybkbzG8"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IsBgkoUT2Nk" width="320" youtube-src-id="IsBgkoUT2Nk"></iframe></div><br /><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p>The hike to Namche is just 5 hours. Its a lot of climbing towards the end but even if you go really slow, take breaks, you'll still make it in 6. I did however, reach Namche quite early in the morning. <br /></p><p>Giving in to the uber cool vibe of Namche, I just put on my sunglasses while enjoying a nice hot ginger lemon honey in a hotel. Its too easy to forget that you're on a hike in Namche.</p><p>I spent most of today wandering around Namche which really feels like a city market. Irish pub blaring out loud music, ATMs everywhere, fancy coffee shops, pool tables. </p><p>You also see a lot of helicopters flying by. Lot of people take the option of flying to Namche from Kathmandu or Lukla. Besides the sheer hiking effort reduction, the helicopter ride is an experience in itself. </p><p>A 500$ experience.</p><p>With not much to do and worsening weather, I decided to take an afternoon nap. When I woke up, there was at least 3 inch snow over Namche. How the turntables! <br /></p><p>But hey, Better today than tomorrow when I go to Dole!</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/D0JEDVAEbc8" width="320" youtube-src-id="D0JEDVAEbc8"></iframe></div><br /><br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpEv3g5YsBcUsYX86pAs-tgyKzxg6ePt1608S8r83WkjDFd3CUZplXmiBcu0j3q70gZU_2zLZWF-weYVG2WuryVQkatAeVFzNWsVyMuVujmzFHCyrsP6S6ek3Cv2lGqumRwYFS0v1HB2qFW7A6mJRVExdyvZsVLgOv_IjXbcU9EAiAFCPIXfJxx-C-/s3840/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-11h47m01s668.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2160" data-original-width="3840" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpEv3g5YsBcUsYX86pAs-tgyKzxg6ePt1608S8r83WkjDFd3CUZplXmiBcu0j3q70gZU_2zLZWF-weYVG2WuryVQkatAeVFzNWsVyMuVujmzFHCyrsP6S6ek3Cv2lGqumRwYFS0v1HB2qFW7A6mJRVExdyvZsVLgOv_IjXbcU9EAiAFCPIXfJxx-C-/s320/vlcsnap-2023-05-18-11h47m01s668.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">The "city" in the Himalayas- Namche Bazaar</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/FX8hhFl-GQ8" width="320" youtube-src-id="FX8hhFl-GQ8"></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>I grabbed some nice dal bhat from the place where I stayed and then went to a live music place. Lets say, they tried so hard and got so far. </p><p>Later, I called it a day with one eye out of my room's window. I bemoaned not researching enough about the weather but a part of me loved the suspense of what's to come next. </p><p><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">March 21 Namche to Mong to Phortse Thenga</h2><p>Sometimes when it rains, it pours. Other times it snows like nobody knows. (I'm going to patent that quote)</p><p>I woke up anticipating and hoping for a clearer sky. Swept aside the curtains of my window and all I see was white. White as far as the eye could see which was 2m. </p><p>Dejected, I grabbed a king sized breakfast and started eating it very slowly while mentally acknowledging that its just not going to happen today. One more day of staying across the Irish pub in the friggin' Himalayas. The breakfast was huge but I was just trying to eat my worries away. </p><p>I asked everyone who walked in the restaurant</p><p>If they're going up or down. Nobody was going up. Nobody knew anyone going up. </p><p>I went back to my room, laid on my bed and prepared to sleep with the blanket over my head. But right before that I peaked outside my window and et voila!</p><p>No. more. Snow.</p><p>When life gives you lemons, you better be god damn grateful for those lemons. I made a quick decision to go for it. The energy was back. I packed my
bags in 10 minutes. Paid the hotel, bought a few necessities and by 11
am, I was on my way.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/917BMtduHeE" width="320" youtube-src-id="917BMtduHeE"></iframe></div><br /> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib_z5Kt4LpDhS_2VYZdK963bmW0osvBtvBpFdIIt4_sD-RHL_DIyai66sGXigVYg8_yGZuforW9zKCUKWaz5VY5H-oRO4lrFqya1HIpsj_v8pE8Tt2UU7WGbnDK_65ohyqv9rBqVUp228SeW25O3DtiXKkxVecVR9-RFp8ryU_p0CrAaDJB3IBqTYs/s2560/202305-18-1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2560" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib_z5Kt4LpDhS_2VYZdK963bmW0osvBtvBpFdIIt4_sD-RHL_DIyai66sGXigVYg8_yGZuforW9zKCUKWaz5VY5H-oRO4lrFqya1HIpsj_v8pE8Tt2UU7WGbnDK_65ohyqv9rBqVUp228SeW25O3DtiXKkxVecVR9-RFp8ryU_p0CrAaDJB3IBqTYs/s320/202305-18-1.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Majestic Stupa after leaving Namche</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX_p_bIaGRWlwcpZ79o409UJArDi7RepjvhaPm-RLFJWVRwHnZfLNpEbyF1r9YpZSrTHJSyVU45c5LoPV45HWAn6V5zrJDZR8WA3r5R056K1VpQkEmln1iNFmTxpeVG5EXWbgNHM-Rj2np7JnnSTpV45J8oMIzw9Qpq0s0vpN8WntKLA6FXqUKDigf/s2560/202305-18-0.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="2560" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX_p_bIaGRWlwcpZ79o409UJArDi7RepjvhaPm-RLFJWVRwHnZfLNpEbyF1r9YpZSrTHJSyVU45c5LoPV45HWAn6V5zrJDZR8WA3r5R056K1VpQkEmln1iNFmTxpeVG5EXWbgNHM-Rj2np7JnnSTpV45J8oMIzw9Qpq0s0vpN8WntKLA6FXqUKDigf/s320/202305-18-0.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">The trail is marked throughout</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br />This decision also meant that I'm focusing on getting to the next campsite and don't care about the lack of views. The weather seemed to be turning in my favor.. for a total of 20 minutes.</p><p>I had Dole in my mind but plan B was a campsite called Phortse Thenga should the weather go south and ..it went south spectacularly.</p><p>It snowed even more than what had led me to decide to just stay in Namche. Moreover, I kept telling people that I want to go to Phortse all the while thinking its the place where the route splits.</p><p>It is NOT.</p><p>Kyanjuma is where the trail splits. Not Phortse. My source had told me he stayed in Phortse while skipping Namche. That was bad intel.</p><p>After you take the split for Gokyo, you incessantly climb until you reach Mong La village. ~4000m altitude. That was a lot of climbing while it was already snowing hard. I kept going because what's the second option? Until Mong the climb is quite consistent with the stairs being the worst part as they give your quadriceps very little respite. <br /></p><p>At Kyanjuma, I had asked a guide about the best approach and he suggested I climb to Mong, eat lunch and then descend to Phortse Thenga. </p><p></p><p>Please note. Phortse thenga and Phortse arent the same. Phortse is not on the way to Dole/Gokyo, however if you do end up in Phortse mistakenly, there is a way to Dole.</p><p>I reached Kyanjuma in an hour from Namche. An hour and half from there I was in Mong.</p><p>Mong must have nice views I imagined since it is so high up without other mountains secluding its view. Maybe I'll see it on my way back because today all I see is white on the land, white in the sky. Today is the day I get from Point A to Point B. <br /></p><p></p><p>I had a nice lunch at Mong along with the famous garlic soup (which is supposed to cure AMS). There I might a British trekker who was on his way back from Macchermo and was staying the night at Dole. He had completed the 3-passes route and was on his way back, from what I remember he told me, it was his 16th day of hiking. </p><p> <br /></p><p>After a long lunch break, I moved towards Phortse Thenga which is at a steep descent from Mong. </p><p>Since there was snow and slush, I had to be very careful in descending, however, I was in Phortse Thenga in an hour (which is also what the notice board tells you in Mong). At the initial part of Phortse Thenga, there are two teahouses and seeing some smoke billow out of the chimney of one of them, I decided to halt there. </p><p>I was cold and the snow kept piling on with every passing minute. <br /></p><p></p><p>The rest of the day was just spent looking outside the window where its snowing relentlessly, while I sip a nice cup of chai by the warm chimney.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7fEUg74_xEE" width="320" youtube-src-id="7fEUg74_xEE"></iframe></div><br /> <p></p><p>Looking back at the day, my mind steeped into relief and realizations. If I did not decide to walk today (which was ultimately due to a false relief in the weather), I would probably have a hard time reaching Gokyo Ri given that I have to fly back on 27th March. <br /></p><p>Anticipating what is going to happen weather wise tomorrow is a waste of time. I'll adapt and change my plan. </p><p>The teahouse I stayed at was run by two sisters who happily rented me the single room that they had available. I called it a day quite early to be prepared for the big effort for the next day. </p><p>Mission Macchermo. <br /></p><p></p><h2>22nd March Phortse Thenga to Macchermo</h2><p></p><p>I woke up to a gorgeous picture perfect weather with the sun beaming in the valley on a snow soaked horizon.<br />Since I estimated a hike of around 5-6 hours today, I started a bit late, around 9 after eating a nice warm breakfast.</p><p></p><p>The trail from Phortse Thenga to Dole initially goes a bit lower and then constantly climbs up. I was spellbound by the sheer size of the mountains in my vicinity, shining like diamonds with the sun on them. </p><p></p><p></p><p>For a good half an hour, I had a smile on my face. This was a first for me. Being around mountains so huge and proximal. I have always believed that mountains are climbed with your soul. Your muscles are important but the driver is the soul. </p><p>Seeing the wonders of the world around me instilled more energy in me than just the determination of climbing a peak. <br /><br />Within a few minutes of Phortse Thenga, you reach the TIMS (Trekker info management system) checkpost where you submit your permit and passport details.<br /></p><p></p><p>Phortse Thenga is at around 3600m and Dole is 4100m. I took it really slow since I was wary of the altitude gain. After all, my main goal for today was Macchermo which stands at 4400m. I was playing the long game. From past experiences, I know better than to be penny wise and pound foolish. <br /></p><p></p><p>Speaking of foolish, after leaving the TIMS checkpost behind (around a couple of km), I realized I don't have my right hand glove. After a 30 second facepalm, I decided not to go back for it since I had been climbing up since then. Also, knowing myself, I had a better, thicker pair of gloves in my backpack for backup. <br /><br />Since it was relatively warm (and If I'm honest, some laziness), I proceeded with only one glove.<br /></p><p>I reached Dole around 11 AM where I decided to grab an early lunch for the push to Macchermo.</p><p></p><p>The route from Dole to Macchermo is also a constant ascent but it's not anything extreme. At least, that's what the wisdom of the few articles I had read about the route had told me. <br /></p><p>The air got noticeably colder as I gained altitude. For most of today's walk, I was by myself and if it not had been for the foot marks, I would've had some trouble finding the right trail at some places.</p><p>Overall, its not rocket science. Whichever way the river is flowing, go the opposite.</p><p></p><p>I arrived at Luza while already a little winded from the altitude and had trouble finding the way ahead but a shepherd pointed me in the right direction. The trail keeps going along a wooden fence and climbs higher.</p><p>The wind started picking up and my hand without the glove started to hurt. Well, it had been hurting for some time but when it stopped hurting was when I was really worried. Being too pre-occupied with being on the right trail, I had forgotten to take care of my very important limb. <br />I hurriedly put on my backup gloves and walked on. I could feel a little low energy since I was losing patience with reaching there but eventually..</p><p></p><p>After a total of 4.5 hours of hiking from Phortse Thenga, I was at Macchermo. There was a final ridge that I had to climb and the campsite was below the ridge with multiple teahouses and their "branding" done on their roof . Since at Dole I had got a tip-off about the best and cheapest place to stay, I was able to spot the teahouse for today easily. <br /></p><p></p><p>There are around 7-8 teahouses that I could spot in Macchermo due to the dense fog conditions. </p><p>I put my backpack down and immediately huddled around the warm chimney and asked for.. another garlic soup. "When I'm back home, I'll definitely research if Garlic does indeed help you with AMS or if its a placebo like nature based medicines tend to be." is what I thought while slurrping the soup. <br /></p><p></p><p>I met an Israeli couple in the teahouse who informed me that better weather is forecasted for the next few days. They had climbed Gokyo Ri the day before with microspikes and were lucky enought to have clear skies when they summited. <br /><br />I was now thinking about how pivotal was that moment when in Namche I decided to peek out of the window before going to sleep. A small decision which seemed foolish after literally 30 minutes and was really not. </p><p>No way I could have done - Namche to Macchermo. Maybe I was aware of that fact all along and my impulse to hike in snow was indeed just me giving in to my subconscious judgement. I sometimes wonder if there are more people out there who have skills which are clouded by their inconfidence. Most certainly there must be. <br /></p><p>I spent most of my time in Macchermo glued to the chimney. There was no longer any cellphone network and all you could do is think about what you want to eat next. Thinking about what would the next day be like is an exercise in futility.<br /></p><p>Before going to bed, the sky cleared up and i could click some nice pictures of the night sky.</p><p></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">March 23 Macchermo to gokyo</h2><p>I'm under 3 blankets with a warm water bottle on my feet.</p><p></p><p>But that is not how this day began.</p><p></p><p>In Macchermo, I didn't get much sleep due to intense headache. I woke up feeling drained so I took my time with the breakfast. It also did not help that there were sub-zero conditions and every liquid had frozen, including that of my contact lens. I had to put my lens into boiling water to have it usable again. </p><p>I left Macchermo at 10 AM, knowing I would not have much energy all day. I decided to take half a diamox to improve my acclimatization. <br /></p><p>Due to the intense cold there was ice on the initial trail. I slipped once and then wondered if that's what the day is going to be like. Slipping on ice hurt my wrist but the real pain was that of my ego being hurt. Sticks and stones may break my bones... <br /></p><p></p><p>After an hour, I reached Phanga which is a very small campsite of a couple of homestays over a vast flat land. Phanga is actually a bit of a descent from Macchermo. </p><p>Today I hiked with a headache and some doubt. One thing is clear to me now, that I am doing a remote trek in not exactly hiking season. I decided to be cautious about my SpO2 levels and hydration.<br /></p><p>At one point i realized I'm getting closer and closer to the river. Meaning that the lake couldn't be that far away. Pretty soon, I could see a long staircase leading to a bridge on the left flank while the river kept getting noisier. I assumed it is the entry to Gokyo village. <br /><br />But it wasn't. So I gave up the expectation of ever reaching Gokyo and focused on the challenge at hand. <br /></p><p>Eventually, The climb got steeper and then ended into a vast moraine.</p><p></p><p>I saw the first lake and was mesmerised by its beauty. Albeit, gokyo was nowhere in sight which was very disappointing for me. I was struggling to walk on even level land now. There was absolutely nobody on the trail except for me even today and if the trail didn't have multiple markings (Cairns, footsteps, beaten trails) I would be in a spot of bother. <br /></p><p>To add to my misery, I realized I left my gopro all the way back to the first lake starting point. 500 Euros.. plus the SD Card and ALL the picture I had taken so far. You can't put a price on memories. </p><p>Even if you're barely breathing, you run. You run imagining all the worst case scenarios of some guide/porter/tourist taking your GoPro from whatever God they believe in. <br /></p><p>Until this point I was dragging my feet in cold weather. Now after leaving my backpack at a safe place (bang on the trail), I decided to sprint for the gopro. I had some idea of where I could have left it. I had stopped somewhere to rest and my fuzzy memory recollected putting my gopro in snow. </p><p>Halfway through, I realized that my backpack was also free to be taken where I had left it but I just assumed it would be difficult to just hide so nobody would take it. GoPro on the other hand can just slide in your pocket. </p><p>I wasted an hour in the search for my camera and found it where I thought I had left it. This drained whatever energy I had left. I was now also beginning to cough a little bit which I expected to happen. </p><p>Despite the fiasco, It took me a total of 4 hours to get to Gokyo which to my surprise is a bigger campsite than Macchermo.</p><p>The lake is beautiful and blue. Although it was half frozen. Today I also had a recommendation (a free stay offer) from a teahouse owner I had met in Phanga. <br /></p><p></p><p>Still very tired and bothered by my headache, I ended up in the lodge and somehow managed to not sleep. I also bought a wifi card and logged in via everest link. <br /></p><p>The caretake of the lodge was very kind. She saw I was worried so she kept getting me water and food, also tucked me in a blanket which was very motherly. </p><p>At this point, I had serious doubts about my condition. My mind was in contingency mode. For instance, I had already collected information of a nearby clinic (yes, there's a clinic in Gokyo). I had no dexamethasone (steroid for severe AMS, life saving) and I had no supplemental oxygen. There was a helicopter recovery option but that costs you one kidney. </p><p>That's the thing about problems. The closer you look at them the bigger they get. <br /></p><p></p><p>However, with the amazing care and hospitality, I felt a little better in the second half of the day. I was also the solitary guest in the homestay. <br />I had the usual dal bhat (along with another diamox) and called it a day. Which brings me to now, to the cosy bed with warm water bottles on my feet. <br /><br />I still don't know how this night is going to be.. but yeah I'll deal with it. <br /></p><p></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">24th March Gokyo to Gokyo Ri to Macchermo</h2><p></p><p>Diamox did its thing. </p><p></p><p>I feared the worst night of the trek yet. Instead, I slept nice and deep. No nightmares, no headache keeping me up all night.</p><p>With the exception of waking up once since I was too warm and had to layer down, I had absolutely no difficulties sleeping.</p><p>Gokyo was freezing cold in the morning, somehow the morning was colder than the night. When I woke up, my lens solution was liquid, 20 minutes later it was a Bausch and Laumb ice cream.</p><p>I put my contact lens case in boiling water to defrost it. Such extreme was the cold. I drank a lot of hot water to defrost myself too. Since I felt fine, I decided to not ask the teahouse caretaker to come with me. Well, she convinced me by telling me that I have nothing. Oh, the power of encouragement, my manager at work can take a cue. </p><p>I believed in myself again, I looked out of the window from where I can see the towering gokyo ri with zig zag trails going all the way into the clouds. 600m, 1.5 km. I took a big sigh and nodded my head in approval. </p><p>"Lets do this"<br /></p><p></p><p>Another oatmeal breakfast and I was all set at 8 am to climb a literal wall like mountain.</p><p></p><p></p><p>I took my backpack with some water, snacks and a backup fleece jacket. <br /></p><p></p><p>The trail starts right from the edge of the lake and climbs up in a very steep zig zag manner. Even though it is very steep, the trail is created in such a way that you can climb fast or gradual depending on your condition.</p><p></p><p>I chose a mix and match approach. My strategy was also to not think about how much is left and what altitude I'm at. </p><p>After a certain point when the air got really thin, I started the 15 steps 20 breaths strategy.</p><p></p><p>There was a hiker behind me who had caught up with me really fast but soon I noticed I couldnt find him anymore. </p><p>I kept an intentional ultra low pace, fuelled by a lot of self motivation ("Come on Prashant!") and visualization of reaching the peak. All the while I was climbing, the view of the Gokyo lakes kept getting better. Looking down, I could also see cracks in the frozen part of the lake which seemed like a really large emerald broken mirror. </p><p> I reached Gokyo Ri in roughly 2.5 hours and was greeted by a Slovakian national "Welcome to the view of the king and queen my friend!". The king and queen in question were Mt. Everest (8848m) and Lhotse Peak (8516m). Both peaks had a solitary cloud hanging over them making it indeed seem like a crown. The weather was clear and there were no other clouds in vicinity. </p><p>I did it. I climbed Gokyo Ri. But that didn't matter in that moment. How I got there was of no significance anymore. It was just the moment I was waiting for since a long, long time. It was a perfect poetic moment imbued in a picture created by nature. A solitary bird was gliding, almost still in the air right in my eye-level. Almost like a gatekeeper to a different realm. <br /></p><p></p><p>I trodded on to the other side of the peak and could see Cho Oyu peak (8188m; Tibet occupied China). <br /></p><p></p><p>I marveled at the beauty of these formidable mountains. Sometime many years ago, eurasian tectonic plates collided with Indian plates to form these mountains of monstrosity in size.</p><p>Many years later, somehow, it became a symbol of reverence, peace and hope for many.</p><p></p><p>After spending half an hour at an approximate altitude of 5380m, making it my highest climb ever, I decided to descend since the weather started to deteriorate. Descending wasn't a cakewalk either and it took me an hour and half to safely come back to Gokyo.</p><p></p><p>A hearty victory lunch later, I was off to Macchermo.</p><p>Unfortunately, the weather worsened and I had almost forgotten how many times I had to descend from Macchermo to Gokyo. Twice. Once before Phanga and another time before the main Macchermo flag post.</p><p>Already tired from the climb to Gokyo Ri, I had a hard time reaching Macchermo. Nevertheless I was there in 2.5 hours of slogging through hiking literally in the clouds. I was now having what people call "Khumbu cough". <br /></p><p>Lot of life lessons today. <br /><br />Look at the brighter side of things. <br />Dont underestimate yourself. <br />Listen to people who believe in you. <br />Blow your nose often while climbing in sub zero conditions. <br />Garlic soup saves lives. <br />Respect the altitude. <br />10 steps 10 breaths is magical.<br />Never give up, keep hanging on to whatever source of hope that is available.</p><p></p><p>The lady at the lodge I stayed in Gokyo took really good care of me. Gave me hot water, talked to me about my fear of catching severe AMS, told me that I'll easily make it. </p><p></p><p>I'm not usually a big tipper but I gave her a nice tip. </p><p>My good luck while hiking continues. The weather cleared up at exactly the right time. My body acclimated exactly at the right time. I had no issues in finding the trail.</p><p>I did it!</p><p>More than a year of no hiking. Living in a sea level altitude country who's idea of high mountains is the Alps. Where 500m speed breakers are called "Mountains". Okay, okay, that was a little cocky I get it. But I totally mean it. </p><p>All the self doubt and I overcame it. I think everyone needs a reminder every now and then of who they really are. And I am many things in life but what I am the most is a traveler. </p><p><b>To quote Walter Mitty : </b></p><p><i>"To see the world, things dangerous to come to, to see behind walls, draw closer, to find each other, and to feel. That is the purpose of life."</i></p><p>Tomorrow I hike to Namche, back to the city of the mountains. Back to the Irish pub. </p><p>As per what I've been told, it takes around 6 hours from Macchermo to Namche which I seriously doubt. Going downhill is easy, hence, the lesser time - is what most guides I met had told me. </p><p>At the moment there is no snow and looking at the skies it doesn't seem like there will be anytime soon, which makes for an easy hike tomorrow.</p><p>Maybe I could make it interesting and take an alternative route? There's a way through Khumjung where Hilary started a school.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">25th March Macchermo to Namche</h2><p>I bid adieu to Macchermo after a relatively early start by my standards. 8 am. The walk back is often difficult but I knew I was in for a ride today. </p><p>Since it didn't snow since a couple of days, the trail was very muddy and slippery. The trail went downhill for a while until it climbs back up to the village Phanga. From there to Dole was a mix of gradual ascent and a quick elevation drop. You also cross a village called Lhafarma on your way down.</p><p>I saw a few trekkers heading the wrong direction to avoid the main muddy trail. I could instantly realize they had no clue where they were going and signaled them to join the main trail instead.</p><p>I took a breather in Dole and then marched on to Phortse Thenga. My 3rd day's halt. Before phortse there is a security checkpost where you're supposed to register in "Out". The walk was very pleasant all the way till Thenga, however, I was now beginning to get tired of the descent. It was now beginning to strike me the amount of climb I had achieved in the past few days, maybe the snow helped after all, eclipsing the distances by giving me no visual point of reference. </p><p>What really punished me was the climb back to Mong. After all the fatigue of the trek, after all the knee jerking descent, Mong seems even more difficult than Gokyo Ri itself. It really didn't help that there were still very few hikers on the trail. Misery is easier when you have more people around you, preferably more miserable than you. </p><p>I didn't stop at Mong this time since the weather was getting bad again. Also, I was, for some reason angry towards Mong for being at an inconvenient altitude. I'm a rational man but hey, I have my moments. </p><p>The descent after Mong was initially steep due to the stairs but then gradual, but might I add, quite long. </p><p>Eventually, via Sanasa I reached Namche bazaar around 4 pm.</p><p>There was a sense of elation at what seemed like the end of the trek. I checked in the same hotel in which I had stayed before and thanked the hotel manager for giving me great advice for the hike. I also treated myself to some nice food and a hot shower.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Mar 26 Namche to Lukla</h2><p><br />Contrary to what I had imagined, today was a long day as well. <br /><br />I started from Namche leisurely as usual, at 9 am. In my mind, I wanted to walk really slow because there's nothing I was really looking forward to in Lukla. Also, my legs had some level of soreness at this point, the descent yesterday and the day before was brutal. </p><p>Walking back, my mind was full of thoughts, still processing the events of the past few days. As the air got richer in Oxygen again, I felt more and more energetic. I saw Mt. Everest, really really close that's something that I kept digesting in my head as I walked back. </p><p>Wherever I felt the views were great, I sat and had something to drink.</p><p>I reached Manjoo in a couple of hours and Phakding an hour later where I also grabbed lunch.</p><p>What I noticed was the huge inflow of trekkers coming in hordes from the opposite direction. I didn't even plan it but I did the hike in the best possible time there is for me -</p><p>A week before the "season".</p><p>Sure I had to walk in snow and on slippery mud but I'll take that over ruining my precious, precious solitude. Too much solitude at times but you can't always get what you want. </p><p>I gradually decided to pick up my pace since I was beginning to get hungry and didn't want to eat anywhere else but at Lukla. Momentum is precious in hiking, especially if you're tired like I was. </p><p>You take a meal, you start from the beginning. </p><p>I walked quite fast from thereon, only stopping to take a breather.</p><p>It didn't help that the last part of the hike is a climb to Lukla from 2580m at Phakding to 2810m. At this point, I was imagining a nice cozy hotel, perhaps a ginger lemon honey while sitting in a warm café.</p><p>Overcoming all the frustration and impatience, I reached Lukla at 4 pm.</p><p>Once I crossed the Sagarmatha national park gate, I did a fist bump to the air and exclaimed </p><p>"Its done!" </p><p>I quickly checked in to a lodge near the airport, showered and then ventured out in Lukla while reminiscing about everything I saw.<br /><br />Towering mountains, beautiful valleys and really difficult climbs.</p><p>I thought about the privileged life I have and felt an immense sense of gratitude for being able to do what I do.</p><p>I felt gratitude towards everyone in my life supportive of this passion of mine.</p><p>Hiking is a sport above everything else. A non competitive sport and I'm glad I have the experience of dealing with challenges due to my many past adventures (and misadventures). <br />While its true that in the lap of nature, you're dependent on luck quite often but good preparedness can go a long way in making all the difference.</p><p>That decision to pop a diamox at Macchermo turned the tables for me. <br />If it didn't work, I was prepared to return. Even if it meant having a disappointment of spending all that time, money and effort for non completion of my objective.</p><p>Better disappointed alive than overambitious and dead.</p><p>Its a delicate line. You can't climb high peaks with fear in your heart. You need to hope like you've never hoped before. Also, you need to be cognizant of what your body tells you.</p><p>The morning of the summit, fueled by a great night of sleep which was fueled by Diamox, I believed I could go that high. </p><p>By myself. </p><p>Talking to other hikers I realized that a high proportion were returning from close to their pursuit of EBC. Some had plans to complete the 3 passes but bailed due to AMS.<br /><br />Some were too late in going back and suffered severe AMS. I met a Danish guy who had to come back from Lobuche (4900m) on the back of a mule. There was even one fatality in EBC. </p><p>These thoughts dominated my mind while I looked back at my experience from a cozy coffee shop in Lukla, enjoying a double shot cappuccino and a delicious carrot cake.</p><p>Until the next adventure!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-13010200999938792092021-10-17T22:55:00.019-07:002021-10-17T23:18:59.952-07:00A solo escapade to Kedartal<p><span style="font-family: georgia;">Life can be funny. For a long time, I've been putting off the idea of traveling because apparently I had other priorities. There was a certain uncertainty of me traveling to Germany, still is, considering all the red tape and bureaucracy at work. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">It started to feel like I'm no longer in control of where I am and what I want to do. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">The mountains have often provided me with clarity of thought and calmness. In my moments of confusion and anxiety, the mountains feel like an answer. <br />"Feel" because there isn't any actual answer from them but instead from the way they make me feel. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">I suppose that's how they make a lot of people feel. An anchor that stays as is. Life can change and throw you around but we're still in this contained ecosystem where some things never change, not from our limited perspective.</span></p><h3 style="text-align: left;"><i><b><span style="font-family: georgia;">Why Kedartal?</span></b></i></h3><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">Because I remember someone mentioning once that it's a nice place to go. It was very random, almost whimsical. I did some short research on trekking sites and realized that the trail is quite steep but the distances are short. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">The view, very rewarding with close proximity to multiple 6500m+ peaks in the vicinity namely : Thalaisagar, Manda, Jogin 2. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">I wasn't very sure about my fitness levels as besides playing football and table tennis on weekends, I have been living an unhealthy, sedentary life. <br />But for some reason, I felt confident in my head that I'll be able to complete this trek successfully. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><i>You know when you know</i></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><i> </i><br /></span></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Day 1 - Dehradun to Gangotri</span></h2><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I
barely sleep 6 hours on my super cozy spine friendly bed at home... but throw me
in a really uncomfortable bus that wasn't even designed to let people sleep and I'll sleep like I'm in a coma.<br /><br />That's what happened
when I got into a Redbus (<u><b>highly not recommended</b></u>), I dozed off and
didn't get down in Dehradun where I was supposed to, but about 10 km
towards Mussorie.<br />The bus driver dropped me in the middle of nowhere, I could even see a few passengers giggling at me. My guide was calling me since the bus to Uttarkashi from Dehradun Railway station was about to leave. <br /><br />I got
down from the bus, picked up all my bags, flashed my thumb to ask for lift and one
moment later I was on a scootie's pillion headed towards Dehradun
railway station. It was very convenient too, almost like it was supposed to be this way. <br />I managed to reach the railway station on
time to catch the onward bus to Uttarkashi where I met my guide Heera who had
also saved us a couple of seats in the bus. <br /><br />We boarded the bus at 5:30 am and reached Uttarkashi in 6 hours. From there, we took a shared cab after having Lunch at Uttarkashi and by 4 pm we were in Gangotri. </span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">The road from Uttarkashi to Gangotri was sublime and it took only 3 hours for us to reach Gangotri.<br /><br />Gangotri is at an altitude of 3049m, which makes it a good place to acclimatize before you climb higher. </span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"> </span></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Day 2 - Gangotri acclimatization day</span></h2><h3><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></h3><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">I think I made up for all the sins I've done in my life today. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-exHz1_B8uS0/YWvy6VM9C0I/AAAAAAAATYA/-37j51q_EfwwsS_pYsgFmEg0Lgp6qR0qgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211011_093153.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-exHz1_B8uS0/YWvy6VM9C0I/AAAAAAAATYA/-37j51q_EfwwsS_pYsgFmEg0Lgp6qR0qgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211011_093153.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">River Ganga flowing through Gangotri<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">There are so many temples in Gangotri, one every corner. The place is drenched in folklore and Hindu mythology. Everything is sacred here. Restaurants serve vegetarian food only with no onion or garlic (visited during Navratras). </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">Today's goal was to simply get more red blood cells in my blood for the altitude I'll go to (4800m roughly). It didn't make much sense to me to acclimatize here but I thought of it as an opportunity to rest my body from the hectic travel from Delhi to Dehradun to Uttarkashi to Gangotri, the day before. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">In the past, I have driven to base camps and trekked the next morning, only to feel fatigued on the trail. <br />As a part of active acclimatization, I visited Pandu Gufa in the morning and en route saw Gaurikund and Surajkund. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">There are a lot of "kunds" (small water repositories) in Gangotri owing to the high flow of Ganga. The sound of the river gushing through narrow cuts on the land is deafening. I also noticed the water was really muddy in Gangotri, which led me to postulate that maybe there's a landslide somewhere. <br /><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xUyTIFTq8sk/YWvy6UKbYOI/AAAAAAAATYI/A7edN_VhJmExsrXFkuIdUBGlYEkAIUyQgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211011_104017.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xUyTIFTq8sk/YWvy6UKbYOI/AAAAAAAATYI/A7edN_VhJmExsrXFkuIdUBGlYEkAIUyQgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211011_104017.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Pandu Gufa at Gangotri</i><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span> </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pxqer5A55ZE/YWvy6VvebPI/AAAAAAAATYE/riFLk3qHdMEOc-ORNg3xcJTRroC3a0DmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211011_104252.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pxqer5A55ZE/YWvy6VvebPI/AAAAAAAATYE/riFLk3qHdMEOc-ORNg3xcJTRroC3a0DmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211011_104252.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the cave exit<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"> </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">After walking for what was around 4-5 km around Gangotri, we decided to pick up rations and other essentials like torch batteries etc. The plan was the usual, to carry basic rations like Rice, dal, tea, milk powder, sugar, spices, oil etc. <br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">I kept an eye on my O2 levels, not because I needed to but because I had a watch with that feature and the watch is expensive. It was 91 in the morning but I felt fine. <br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">In the evening, I attended Ganga aarti at the main temple in Gangotri. Although I'm an atheist, the spectacle was worth being a part of. Devotees circled around the temple to witness the aarti and they made sure to capture every bit of it for Instagram. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">As I stood behind them, a sea of smartphones illuminated in front of me, in front of "God". I wondered if being in the moment was a thing of the past. Everyone wants to capture a memory so much that they forgot to live it. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">Well, of course I was also recording the function but mainly to capture the irony, not the blessings. In the end, the priest sprayed holy water over the masses and I got a drop of it on my head, which my guide told me, is a good omen. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dEtGvoqLPbY/YWvy7vhZ9wI/AAAAAAAATYM/o2VEFbLBRAwSWQpTcRh4ghRtInwICnaYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2642/20211011_181027.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1190" data-original-width="2642" height="144" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dEtGvoqLPbY/YWvy7vhZ9wI/AAAAAAAATYM/o2VEFbLBRAwSWQpTcRh4ghRtInwICnaYgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211011_181027.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gangotri main temple<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">By evening and at the time of writing this note, my oxygen is 99. <br /><br />I suppose I'm all set for tomorrow!<br /><br /></span></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Day 3 - Gangotri to Bhoj kharak</span></h2><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">I had a weird sleep, intermittent but restful.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">I woke up at 6:30 am, had a nice heavy breakfast at Gangotri, packed everything and left for Bhoj kharak by 8:15 am. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">The trail for Bhoj kharak starts from behind GMVN in Gangotri, one can take the trail behind it and then follow the trail climbing up. On the way there's Forest office which should mark that you're going the right way. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EwYpQhsXcXM/YWvy70r4UvI/AAAAAAAATYQ/khIW6c4Ac0c_Bn9nFx3KsU-_EA2hEETkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211012_081252.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EwYpQhsXcXM/YWvy70r4UvI/AAAAAAAATYQ/khIW6c4Ac0c_Bn9nFx3KsU-_EA2hEETkgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211012_081252.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting the trek from behind GMVN<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br />The initial part of the trail is through a thick forest cover with lots of shade. Although, right off the bat, it's very steep and a relentless ascent.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">However, I felt
energetic and gained 400m altitude in 1.5 hours. <br />At about 2 km in the trek, you find a waterfall which would be your first water source of the day and also serves as a good resting point. You also get cellphone coverage just prior to reaching this point. <br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ZW9k--tIwk/YWvy8K-bMkI/AAAAAAAATYU/ktds36EXlHQD8okpPcj9Ulp7TNrgpYkNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211012_082711.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ZW9k--tIwk/YWvy8K-bMkI/AAAAAAAATYU/ktds36EXlHQD8okpPcj9Ulp7TNrgpYkNQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211012_082711.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gangotri visible from 2 km into the trail<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br />We took a lot of mini
breaks in which I took ORS. The trail was well laid out so far and only one instance did I lose track of where I was going, only to be corrected by my guide. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9I2AWXvEy3w/YWvy85dLdFI/AAAAAAAATYY/QvHOyC8DYgwg_qBxtBIXU6IFejJNHK2ygCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211012_120125.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9I2AWXvEy3w/YWvy85dLdFI/AAAAAAAATYY/QvHOyC8DYgwg_qBxtBIXU6IFejJNHK2ygCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211012_120125.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trail towards Bhoj Kharak<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">There are not too many challenging sections till you reach Bhoj Kharak, however, there are two spider walls.<br />While traversing through the first spider wall, I took a wrong approach and slipped. While trying to grab my guide's hand to safety, I accidentally stabbed myself with my hiking stick on my right thigh, fortunately, the tip tore only through the fabric of my trek pants and not through my skin. <br /><br />My takeaway would be to be a bit more alert while crossing this section and to not rush it. <br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">Once we were past this section, there was a steep trail with lot of loose rocks which made it hard to have any kind of grip. Climbing up was still easier but descending was like trying to walk on a trail filled with round marbles. <br />I struggled initially but then controlled my pace to safely cross this part of the trail. The hiking stick was proving to be useless in sections like these and I preferred to use my hands for balance. <br /><br />Finally, prior to reaching Bhoj Kharak camp, there's the second spider wall. <br />A trail is also present there to by pass this section which I gladly took as I didn't feel confident crossing this patch. The bypass trail goes all the way down to the waterfall bed and then climbs up. It is still very narrow and steep but a lot safer. <br /><br />After successfully crossing the section, I reached the campsite at 1215 pm in around 4 hours.<br /><br />Bhoj kharak is a less than ideal campsite with very small space to pitch tents scattered here and there.<br />There
are ruins of fiber huts that the forest department must have tried to
setup but it seems like they fell victim to a landslide. Nevertheless, you can wiggle in between the ruins and squeeze your way inside a makeshift shelter.<br /><br />This is where we setup our kitchen since it was well insulated from air.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iNdZwLOF4BQ/YWvy9Kc5kkI/AAAAAAAATYc/YTXSPnKvv2YoiCeNEOwhY9PeQ1c4FRM1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2642/20211012_132902.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1190" data-original-width="2642" height="144" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iNdZwLOF4BQ/YWvy9Kc5kkI/AAAAAAAATYc/YTXSPnKvv2YoiCeNEOwhY9PeQ1c4FRM1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211012_132902.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kitchen setup in Bhoj Kharak<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">I was expecting no company at the campsite but soon trekkers started coming in, 2 groups in all. Later, an army group also marched in. <br /><br />Unfortunately, the army paramedic fell sick and started throwing up. </span><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">The paramedic tried to move towards kedar
kharak but had lost all energy. I offered him my ORS and some
hot water since we had the stove ready.<br /></span>The rest of the
day was spent chatting with the army folks and marveling how they never
leave a man behind and are so systematic and protocol driven. <br /><br />The
day ended with me trying to capture the night sky, I took a few shots
but then the cold overcame my enthusiasm and I retreated back to my
tent.<br /><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EUjjuYhGCx0/YWvy9Em2ohI/AAAAAAAATYg/U4WwIQJJNtYOHsBRZUkahor2u0-DU7MzgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2642/20211012_213120.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1190" data-original-width="2642" height="144" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EUjjuYhGCx0/YWvy9Em2ohI/AAAAAAAATYg/U4WwIQJJNtYOHsBRZUkahor2u0-DU7MzgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211012_213120.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Night sky from Bhoj Kharak<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></p><p><br /><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Day 3 Bhoj kharak to Kedar Kharak</span></h2><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">I had a very
difficult night since I was shivering for most parts of it. It was
stupidity at my end since I underestimated the cold and didn't put any
layers except a wind jacket. <br /><br />Consequently, I woke up with less energy and after lazily eating breakfast and packing the camp, we left for Kedar kharak at 10 am.<br /><br />The initial path is a somewhat steep and relentless climb, which seems to be the theme of this trek. However, after gaining around 300m, the climb mellows down into a level space. <br />Alas, this is also the famous rock fall area.<br /><br />At Bhoj Kharak, I had met trekkers who retreated after just
witnessing that patch. They deemed it too dangerous to cross. <br /><br />There was a lot of dust in that section since it
is all loose soil, occasionally a rock might come falling down, the
trail in that section is shrouded in dust if there are strong winds, which make it difficult for
you to see and breathe.<br />I bid my time to wait for the winds to recede, often taking refuge under a big rock and made a dash across that section as soon as the wind stopped. The soil is very loose, a bit ladakh-esque and there is a 60 degree gradient with exposure to the river bed below. <br /><br />The
trail eventually joins the river bed and then climbs up again, next up, you'll be walking on a moraine like terrain followed by patches of grass
which you'll be relieved to see.<br />Grass means no more dust and better grip for your shoes.<br /><br />From
there, disappointingly, kedar kharak is a mere 30 minutes away, a bit of
an ascent slog but you'll be greeted with the views of Thalaisagar,
Bhrigupanth and other unnamed 6500m+ peaks, there's also Manda peak
visible.</span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YkaA71fu-Kg/YWvy-EJ-a1I/AAAAAAAATYk/E10zfNorSXU9QV9GkVaRQZtLBNdEMdIhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211013_110224.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YkaA71fu-Kg/YWvy-EJ-a1I/AAAAAAAATYk/E10zfNorSXU9QV9GkVaRQZtLBNdEMdIhQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211013_110224.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trail towards KedarKharak<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br />There are multiple rivulets running across Kedarkharak
which is a proper campsite. It is a huge meadow intertwining with small
streams where you can camp. I took out my binoculars and observed the giant mountains up, close and personal. There were a few other groups who were also camped there.<br /><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-igvhurw-t3A/YW0PFoUFhkI/AAAAAAAATZ8/k782g9jful031H-3NoH0BHqQKvrAoBYWQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211013_131156.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-igvhurw-t3A/YW0PFoUFhkI/AAAAAAAATZ8/k782g9jful031H-3NoH0BHqQKvrAoBYWQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211013_131156.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Observing the far away peaks<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br />It took me a total of 3 hours at a VERY leisurely pace to reach kedar kharak. If you're taking smaller breaks, it's possible to reach there in 2 hours. </span><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XjHtrh1YJ0U/YWvy-fMvXmI/AAAAAAAATYo/fhl3zSD4loM8b3elvnrEezdhe9nIb32tQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211013_163320.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XjHtrh1YJ0U/YWvy-fMvXmI/AAAAAAAATYo/fhl3zSD4loM8b3elvnrEezdhe9nIb32tQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211013_163320.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camped @ Kedar Kharak<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /><span style="font-family: georgia;">Kedar
kharak is a spot to relax and soak in the grandeur of the mighty Himalayas, however, my focus is on the next target : Kedartal <br /><br />Since I reached Kedar Kharak at around 1 PM, there wasn't much to do. So, we called it a day early at 7 pm after having a sumptuous dinner.<br /><br /></span></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Day 4 Kedar Kharak to Kedartal and back </span></h2><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RMBWvgRAcN0/YWvy-48mp8I/AAAAAAAATYs/RDzIMMN8tZk_C8FFQRY6OiByC8C5i6W2QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211014_080238.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RMBWvgRAcN0/YWvy-48mp8I/AAAAAAAATYs/RDzIMMN8tZk_C8FFQRY6OiByC8C5i6W2QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211014_080238.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frosty morning at Kedarkharak<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><h3 style="text-align: left;"></h3><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">The night was still pretty cold but I didn't suffer as much due to proper layering. I had already ditched the plan to camp at Kedartal owing to the extreme cold. When I woke up, there was frost on the tent and the water in the bottle outside had frozen. <br /><br />I didn't get a very deep sleep which again made me feel lethargic in the morning. <br /><br />Most of the other trekkers had already left for Kedartal early in the day but I was content on soaking in the sun and defrosting my body before starting the day. Later in the morning, our campsite was visited by the Himalayan Ibex, a magnificent creature and the only wildlife I had seen so far. <br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-56rJ_7Sy7jg/YWvy_rlrKAI/AAAAAAAATY0/VN5YZZ4n5DsaaxMjGY3XOESfOZg7V2XhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211014_091041.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-56rJ_7Sy7jg/YWvy_rlrKAI/AAAAAAAATY0/VN5YZZ4n5DsaaxMjGY3XOESfOZg7V2XhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211014_091041.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ibex looking for salt<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">We managed to start at 10 am for Kedartal with
no backpacks and just a water bottle held in my hand. The intention was to reach there as soon as possible, spend time at the lake and come back before it gets colder. <br /><br />The climb to kedartal is steep, yet again and involves crossing four humps. The first of which is visible from the campsite if you're looking towards Thalaysagar or following the water source. <br /><br />There is an initial clear trail which disappears into the moraines and reappears later with cairns marked to help with the route. The cairns are placed all throughout the trail. <br /><br />I did feel the effect of cold dry air irritating my throat but made sure to drink a lot of water. Although the trail is a constant ascent, there are no valley exposure anywhere and it's quite safe. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ydohYdBXtqA/YWvzAn3r4nI/AAAAAAAATY4/S5D0jgnvACYUUaIUhw67_KXY3d3CHaw7gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211014_115540.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ydohYdBXtqA/YWvzAn3r4nI/AAAAAAAATY4/S5D0jgnvACYUUaIUhw67_KXY3d3CHaw7gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211014_115540.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost there!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"> </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">After 2 hours of laborious climbing, I finally managed to reach Kedartal!<br /><br />It was a bittersweet moment as the thought occurred in my head, "Is this goodbye?"<br />A plethora of thoughts plagued my mind, It felt like I'm able to look at some bigger picture in which I'm a small entity in the grand scheme of things. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">Kedartal is a very beautiful lake, emerald in color but it's USP lies in the fact that it's surrounded by peaks of enormity. The lake area in itself felt warmer than the trail leading up to it, partly because of the shielding effects of the nearby peaks and the fact that you have to descend around a 100 feet from the top most ridge to reach the lake. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">I greeted the other trekkers at the lake and congratulated them for their successful summit. I also took their food and chocolates since I was starving. Soon, the other trekkers left and me and my guide were the only ones left at the lake. <br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">I stayed there at the lake, looked at the gigantic peaks around me almost staring from all sides. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6oRRkxW0gUI/YWvzBpSJaJI/AAAAAAAATZA/vNy5sAf-jNQYSGaMwr8Fj3w_7mcD3KbgQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211014_120306.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6oRRkxW0gUI/YWvzBpSJaJI/AAAAAAAATZA/vNy5sAf-jNQYSGaMwr8Fj3w_7mcD3KbgQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211014_120306.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful Kedartal<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sj8qzLHjAmc/YWvzBOHXXRI/AAAAAAAATY8/Wy1T8FykihcyjHF7uCjL7DnwVnqcdEVBACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211014_115639.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />From the lake you can take the onward trail to Thalaisagar base camp which is a further 2 kms away. I had no plans of going there and chose to spend some quiet time at the lake. Saying my goodbye, because, who knows where I'll be in the coming few months. </span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nIBs5co28EA/YWvzC5gTaRI/AAAAAAAATZM/UFEx2uu2U0oDFHSyhPZzBAycfxywt6VMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211014_124341.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nIBs5co28EA/YWvzC5gTaRI/AAAAAAAATZM/UFEx2uu2U0oDFHSyhPZzBAycfxywt6VMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211014_124341.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monolith at the lake<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6oRRkxW0gUI/YWvzBpSJaJI/AAAAAAAATZA/vNy5sAf-jNQYSGaMwr8Fj3w_7mcD3KbgQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211014_120306.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n_XsoPKuMJo/YWvzCXa99HI/AAAAAAAATZE/7oBW0Fpygc81wSjlQ3N3SKCv56W1l0RkQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211014_132635.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n_XsoPKuMJo/YWvzCXa99HI/AAAAAAAATZE/7oBW0Fpygc81wSjlQ3N3SKCv56W1l0RkQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211014_132635.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kedartal as seen from the ridge above it<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /><span style="font-family: georgia;">After spending an hour in leisure at the lake, I returned towards kedarkharak and reached there in 50 minutes. <br /><br />I was really hungry and possibly sprinted down in a controlled manner. Once I reached the camp, I saw another huge group had come in and camped all around me, I greeted the trekkers and answered their queries about how the trail from Kedarkharak to Kedartal is.<br /><br />The
day was over, there was a sense of relief and joy. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">That scene of me
walking up the slope while in the shadow of the peaks
got imprinted in my head. There's always one moment on a trek that defines it for you. The moment you always recollect when you think about a particular place. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">For me, <u><i>that </i></u>was it. That's the story of this trip, that memory of those huge mountains and me amidst them, walking towards them. <br />That feeling of being so content that I'm not spending THAT particular moment confined in my house. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f7QoRbDYji8/YW0RpusaWnI/AAAAAAAATaE/oTRRnitQsvIdBDihHyHud_x9BYtHZGCXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20211014_121615.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f7QoRbDYji8/YW0RpusaWnI/AAAAAAAATaE/oTRRnitQsvIdBDihHyHud_x9BYtHZGCXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20211014_121615.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yours truly, at the lake :) <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> I also,</span></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: georgia;">Felt very grateful of having the opportunity to be at this place. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: georgia;">Thought about how people (family, friends, relatives) think so less of hiking without actually seeing what I saw today. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: georgia;">Thought about how it makes absolutely no difference to me. </span></li></ul><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span></h3><h2 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Day 5 Kedarkharak to Gangotri</span></h2><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">Usually,
the walk back is quite boring. It wasn't in this case though. I knew I would
take less time in going back to Gangotri than I did while climbing up.<br /><br />The main catch was the rockfall area and the spider walls. I started walking at 9:45 am today after packing up the camp.<br /><br />It
took me an hour to cross the rock fall area, however, I noticed there
was less of a breeze today making life a tad bit easier. Also, I saw
another group from down below avoiding this section by crossing the
river and walking on the river bed until it meets the main trail.<br /><br />I saw their guide on the original loose soil dusty trail and asked him "Why the detour?"<br /><br />"Dheele hain" was his answer. <br /><br />Even without the wind, there was a lot of dust on the trail I took, which led me to cough violently once I crossed it.<br />Eventually,
I caught up with the other group who had left an hour prior to me. This
made life also easier for the next tricky section where the trail was
steep descent with very loose soil. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">Next was the final spider wall which I crossed comfortably this time as I could see the footholds from up above.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">So, all in all. The descent was also quite entertaining and adventure filled. <br />I reached Gangotri by noon after a LOT of descent. 4200m to 3050m.<br /><br />My body was tired and legs were aching but my soul was smiling. <br /><br /><b>What
a hidden gem</b>, I thought. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;">Untouched by the greed of the agencies thus
far. Mainly because tourists prefer going to Gaumukh tapovan over this.<br /><br />But
I can see that the agencies have started eyeing this trek too. I hope
I'm wrong but I can see this trek also being over commercialized. <br /><br />Unfortunately, the lake is retreating as per what my guide and others told me. There
is a substantial decline in water volume as compared to a couple of
years back.<br />Global warming is for real and its most apparent once you climb high.<br /><br />All the bitter things aside, I'm glad I took this decision at a whim to do this trek.<br /><br />Memories were made that will stay with me for a long time. </span></p><p><i><u><b><span style="font-family: georgia;">What else can you ask for?</span></b></u></i></p><p><br /></p><p>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</p><p><u><b><span style="font-family: georgia;">Helpful Data for trekkers :</span><span style="font-family: arial;"></span></b></u><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /> <br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VFX1KlBGi_k/YW0Li4tAcMI/AAAAAAAATZ0/DUb4_UX4fE8ieibxGBexW2Odjy6NpJW5gCLcBGAsYHQ/s760/Elevation_Profile_Kedartal.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="460" data-original-width="760" height="272" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VFX1KlBGi_k/YW0Li4tAcMI/AAAAAAAATZ0/DUb4_UX4fE8ieibxGBexW2Odjy6NpJW5gCLcBGAsYHQ/w448-h272/Elevation_Profile_Kedartal.png" width="448" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kedartal altitude profile<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /><u><b>GPS log :</b></u> </span></p><p><a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZCms0u94M65LywMWZzOHP-xyH48UzeUr?usp=sharing"><span style="font-family: georgia;">https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ZCms0u94M65LywMWZzOHP-xyH48UzeUr?usp=sharing</span></a></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"> </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span></p>Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com5Kedartal, Uttarakhand 24913530.909896799999991 78.95816732.5996629638211459 43.8019173 59.220130636178837 114.1144173tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-75791868746241340922020-10-05T06:32:00.021-07:002020-10-07T23:02:20.828-07:00Nandikund lake trek <h1 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><span>Prologue:</span></span></h1><h2><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></h2><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">It's September-end, 2020 and the world has been brought to
its knees by covid-19 and that too for some time now. <br />The world is shrouded in gloom, plans have flopped and careers have been jeopardized. To be honest, it shook everyone out of their bubble, their "5 year plans". <br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">Covid is a relatively low risk disease and yet, it created a panic that has not been seen in the last 100 years (The world wars must have sucked more though I guess).</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">A grim reminder that everything you have, can just simply vanish if it's the will of "nature".<br />Covid took a lot from a lot of people. By comparison, I was relatively unscathed but not "completely" unscathed. It did make me drop my shoulders and embrace the new normal, <i>Whatever the hell that means. </i><br /><br />I would dream every day about spending some time away from the god-awful media created news, the career fiasco, the chaos. <br />So, I bided my time. <br />As soon as the government indicated that the restrictions will be lifted soon, I started planning for a trek. <br />Eventually, found two other people who were also having the same mindset. Ashutosh and Prashant Jha. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">We initially thought about going to Pindari glacier since we were skeptical about our fitness levels but us being us, we decided on going to "Nandikund lake" near Ukhimath. <br />Spent a few weeks on deciding the logistics, the guide, the ration requirements, fuel and stove. Gauged the difficulty level as being acceptable for us. <br />Decided on going with Heera Singh from Chamoli as our guide since I have had good experiences trekking with various members of his family. <br />I got my car readied for the trip and et voila, everything fell in place like clockwork. <br /></span></span></p><h1 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><span>Day 0 - Delhi to Ransi</span></span></h1><h2><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></h2><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">The
plan was to start really early, reach Rudraprayag by afternoon, pick
our guide Heera from there and then reach the base camp, Ransi before it gets dark.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">An hour into the drive, the brakes had a malfunction. This was
around Muradnagar. It took us a while to find a mechanic but we did,
eventually. He told us that the brake pads need to be replaced. This whole experience was a little bittersweet. Brakes are crucial in the mountains, especially if you're descending. The thought of having this problem earlier rather than later gave me some relief. </span></span></p><p><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dQL26ROAdTo/X3sWFtw6IcI/AAAAAAAASuA/ydzJ1Hs-9U4M353-1SsXymekZW-OC7x_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1280/Car%2Bbrakedown.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dQL26ROAdTo/X3sWFtw6IcI/AAAAAAAASuA/ydzJ1Hs-9U4M353-1SsXymekZW-OC7x_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Car%2Bbrakedown.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Car brake-down</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />All this took away 2 important hours from us. We got back on the road and restarted our charge towards Kotdwar. We took the canal road and reached Kotwdar around 1 pm. </span></span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />Kotdwar is from where the hills start. </span></span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />After an hour of driving from Kotdwar, we reached Satpuli, where we halted for lunch. </span></span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />From Satpuli, you can either take the route to Rudraprayag via Devprayag which is a narrow road but has very less turns or elevation OR via Pauri which is more scenic but is longer, takes longer and has a lot of twists. <br /></span></span><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">We took the route via Devprayag in the interest of time. It took us a good 4 hours to
reach Rudraprayag where we met our guide. <br />Another 3-4 hours drive from Rudraprayag via Ukhimath and Uniyana takes you to a very remote village and the last road head, Ransi. <br /></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">The
road to Ransi isn't well paved. We had left from Rudraprayag around 8 pm and reached Ransi around midnight.
The drive was an adventure on its own, bad road conditions, no barriers, driving in the dark. <br />Ransi wore a deserted look when we reached the hotel, the very first one on entering Ransi. We parked the car at a safe place and immediately went to sleep in our room. <br /></span></span></p><h1 style="text-align: left;"></h1><h1 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><span>Day 1 Ransi to Madhmaheshwar</span></span></h1><h2><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></h2><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">We managed to wake up at 6 am feeling somewhat rested. After packing our bags and stocking up on supplies, we had a nice large breakfast. <br />We also divided our rations equally so that none of us is the group's mule. Our backpacks weighed an average of 15-16 kg depending on how much water we decide to carry. <br />Today our aim was to reach Madhmaheshwar (3200m), which is 17 km from Ransi (1600m).<br />The route from Ransi to Madhmaheshwar is a tale of two halves.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">The first half is an easy walk, in which you descend a few hundred metres and reach various villages like Goundhar and Bantoli.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--OcJjHYU6qM/X3sW7QGBnoI/AAAAAAAASuI/B-Oc5-LEhyIKUdo7ukmXF1aSB9nz4GBdwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200927_085919.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--OcJjHYU6qM/X3sW7QGBnoI/AAAAAAAASuI/B-Oc5-LEhyIKUdo7ukmXF1aSB9nz4GBdwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200927_085919.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Yours truly at Ransi</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QTVP2LGvFok/X3sW7euf_LI/AAAAAAAASuM/5fxe1SnPDkY_P1Dqm1d07_cTEXdW56QugCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200927_090543.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QTVP2LGvFok/X3sW7euf_LI/AAAAAAAASuM/5fxe1SnPDkY_P1Dqm1d07_cTEXdW56QugCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200927_090543.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Ransi, the last road head</span></span></td></tr></tbody></table></span></span><p></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></span></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d2tCzFUF_2s/X3sW8ULAT6I/AAAAAAAASuU/1AQVLUjY9rEqmxO_W7_EUzvcoFCAvh0agCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200927_090800.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d2tCzFUF_2s/X3sW8ULAT6I/AAAAAAAASuU/1AQVLUjY9rEqmxO_W7_EUzvcoFCAvh0agCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200927_090800.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Step 1 - Reach Gaundhar<br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </span></span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AZgKvhr0Z_M/X3sXgAd6irI/AAAAAAAASuo/yytdJITK6VEurLZ1nhYQyQnweQ6SGa3LgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200927_092555.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AZgKvhr0Z_M/X3sXgAd6irI/AAAAAAAASuo/yytdJITK6VEurLZ1nhYQyQnweQ6SGa3LgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200927_092555.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">En route to Gaundhar</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">From Bantoli, the trail only goes one way. Up.<br />Relentless ascent for 9 km. You effectively climb around 1800m in those 9 kms. <br />We had a horrible time dealing with the sun and the gradient. Our quads were pleading for mercy. <br />I felt dehydrated and had ORS. Maybe it was the exhaustion from all the road travel the previous day, maybe we were deconditioned or maybe a bad combination of both these reasons.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iCa8J1kL2fg/X3sXu6aqjDI/AAAAAAAASus/MdGTMQwvxRYTJYAWOJXYA9Y63VP5jkjRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200927_105356.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iCa8J1kL2fg/X3sXu6aqjDI/AAAAAAAASus/MdGTMQwvxRYTJYAWOJXYA9Y63VP5jkjRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200927_105356.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span>Gaundhar village</span></span></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">The trail was well laid throughout. After crossing the river in Bantoli, the trail is paved with concrete all the way till Madhmaheshwar. It didn't make it easy though, the continuous ascent reminded me of the trail in Kareri lake. <br />With the sun beating down, the heavy backpacks and the merciless gradient, we had to take a lot of stops en route. <br /><br />There are a lot of checkpoints in between : <i><b><br />Ransi -> Gaundar -> Bantoli -> Khaddara -> Nanu -> Mainkhamba -> Kun chatti -> Madhmaheshwar. </b></i><br /><br />These are also water source points. Stay options are available in Nanu but is very limited. Its best to bring your own tents and camp at either of these places, close to water source. <br /></span></span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7EqpM_ouwk8/X3sX8uK4dSI/AAAAAAAASu0/CUoGnGBafOs7IE9Q2cdVNYdcURZ7eii1wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200927_113904.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7EqpM_ouwk8/X3sX8uK4dSI/AAAAAAAASu0/CUoGnGBafOs7IE9Q2cdVNYdcURZ7eii1wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200927_113904.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Helpful markings along the way</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NYc46KKJMLo/X3sX_zfl7VI/AAAAAAAASu8/UfUpAEm7Duwo71c_o0hrkglsO50tbIT2wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200927_123428.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1154" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NYc46KKJMLo/X3sX_zfl7VI/AAAAAAAASu8/UfUpAEm7Duwo71c_o0hrkglsO50tbIT2wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200927_123428.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Zoom in to see the lizard</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">We started from Ransi at 9 am and reached Madhmaheshwar at 7 pm. 10 hours of hiking with around 2 hours of breaks (yes, we were tired). <br /></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">As soon as we reached Madhmaheshwar, we also instantly felt a chill in the air. We pitched our tents in a vacant area next to a house, setup kitchen, ate dinner and called it a day. <br /><br />The locals in Madhmaheshwar weren't too happy to see us, for them, people from Delhi ARE the virus (or so it seemed). I don't entirely blame them, with infrastructure like in Uttarakhand, their apprehensions are justified. <br />We did have covid negative reports with us but we kept distance from them anyway. <br /><br />Quite a start with a very long journey ahead of us!<br /></span></span></p><h1 style="text-align: left;"></h1><h1 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><span>Day 2 Madhmaheshwar to Kachani dhar</span></span></h1><h2><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></h2><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LiKYzwKTuyw/X3sYFs4HGVI/AAAAAAAASvA/RLFrSgN82zsRuUjXlenkmDzX4XwVjIdFgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200928_063811.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LiKYzwKTuyw/X3sYFs4HGVI/AAAAAAAASvA/RLFrSgN82zsRuUjXlenkmDzX4XwVjIdFgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200928_063811.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Camspite at Madhmaheshwar</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">I
woke up at 6:15 am in the middle of the mountains in the middle of the
pandemic, it took a few minutes to let that feeling sink in. <br />The sleep refreshed me, the leg pain was gone.<br />By 9 am
we got done with packing the camp and breakfast. The trail from Madhmaheshwar to
Kachani dhar is again a continuous ascent interrupted by brief descents.
<br />All of us were quiet tired from yesterday's onslaught and took
our own sweet time. The views were much better once we crossed the
tree line right after exiting Madhmaheshwar. The sun was harsh again today. <br />I dozed off twice while we rested. I was fatigued beyond what I was willing to admit. </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i7kUESTDxOw/X3sYu4k6abI/AAAAAAAASvY/2PmoOycuNbgbL1slqbOT9j0QWYDueEhjACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200928_104348.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i7kUESTDxOw/X3sYu4k6abI/AAAAAAAASvY/2PmoOycuNbgbL1slqbOT9j0QWYDueEhjACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200928_104348.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Madhmaheshwar from afar. Budha MM is right above MM.</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oSdUsoP-1Ns/X3sYu0KiyhI/AAAAAAAASvU/vaYV8Nj0MXgjLjaJvOSxK1qkn89B0kC9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200928_152644.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oSdUsoP-1Ns/X3sYu0KiyhI/AAAAAAAASvU/vaYV8Nj0MXgjLjaJvOSxK1qkn89B0kC9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200928_152644.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Raw and rugged trail on the way to Kachani</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></div><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">We still haven't figured out what caused this level of tiredness. <br />We managed to reach
Kachani dhar around 3:30 pm. A half hour of descent later, we were at
our campsite. It's not as cold as I anticipated. We setup our camp,
cooked dinner and then called it a day. <br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kgbmvxqTjsw/X3sZUM85y6I/AAAAAAAASvo/BQwPKaPELQI3GOqV40WOT_H9tcJCBF2-ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200928_152650.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kgbmvxqTjsw/X3sZUM85y6I/AAAAAAAASvo/BQwPKaPELQI3GOqV40WOT_H9tcJCBF2-ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200928_152650.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">View from Kachani Dhar top; campsite is below this</span></span><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />The next campsite, i.e. Pandavsera is visible right in front of us. Seems like a straightforward trail with a little bit of descent from where we stand. Our guide tells us there's more than meets the eye. We were a bit dismissive of his opinion. </span></span><p><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i9sM3xOyPqE/X3sZkqp3NJI/AAAAAAAASvw/fz3643JKoR0rvf28VSUDIH2-T0pwOaNdQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200928_153434.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i9sM3xOyPqE/X3sZkqp3NJI/AAAAAAAASvw/fz3643JKoR0rvf28VSUDIH2-T0pwOaNdQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200928_153434.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Sun shining on Pandavsera </span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />As the sun set, the winds picked up and it got really cold. We had our camp setup by 5 pm, cooked food, had a lot of hot water and soup. Eating food feels good for two reasons now. Nourishment and the fact that our load gets lesser the more we eat :)<br /><br />It's also beginning to dawn on us that this isn't an easy trek by any chance. Did we bite more than we can chew?<br />Time will tell.<br /><br />I'm going to stop writing now since my hand are really cold.<br /></span></span><p></p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span><p></p><h1 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><span>Day 3 Kachani dhar to Pandav sera</span></span></h1><h2><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></h2><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">The mountains have different ways of teaching you humility. <br /><br />Kachani dhar is 4100m<br />Pandavsera is 3900m<br />6 kms between them.<br /><br />Easy and simple, right?<br />Wrong!<br /><br />As we realized later, going to pandavsera involves crossing at least 3 valleys. All the way down, then all the way up. 3 times. <br />And in this too, the climb was intensely steep and so was the descent. Steep, continuous, very hard on the knees. Even more harder on our patience. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m6Uip9I-ybo/X3saINk-IJI/AAAAAAAASv8/8qfoWOuhc-MT3oOkqSixmVl8sM1bE1VqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200929_064803.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m6Uip9I-ybo/X3saINk-IJI/AAAAAAAASv8/8qfoWOuhc-MT3oOkqSixmVl8sM1bE1VqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200929_064803.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Much anticipated sun rays @ Kachani Dhar!</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Is-4AdrEXvg/X3saIBDryaI/AAAAAAAASwE/hckuHWXlJgUEbISvp2emnB2-Z9EKn2m8gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200929_062918.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Is-4AdrEXvg/X3saIBDryaI/AAAAAAAASwE/hckuHWXlJgUEbISvp2emnB2-Z9EKn2m8gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200929_062918.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">We setup camp near this shepherd encampment</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />The
trail did give us permission to sit and relax at certain places. I pondered if I'm putting myself through all this just to forget the pandemic? How could you think about anything else in the world when you have to watch every step of yours. Choose each big rock carefully, gauging its stability in the back of your head. <br /><br />It is the ultimate thought cleanser. <br /><br />We couldn't see pandavsera for the most part of the trail but when we did, we realized how far it is. It looked almost as big as it looked from Kachani Dhar. <br />The final leg of the trail goes through thick bushes and very steep decline. It's obvious very few people visit this place. The trails are unmarked shortly after Kachani, then they faintly reappear at some places. <br />It is evident that very few people, mostly locals from Uttarakhand and the nearby villages are the main tourists in this place. Nandikund is still untouched by the greed of the big trekking companies. <br />We
also had had news from "Nanu" that the DFO is out on a round, if he finds us,
he'll challan us for not having a permit. But we didn't find him
anywhere so far. So all is good. We did keep an eye out though, in case we spot someone and have to hide in the bushes (just kidding) <br />(.... or am I?) <br />All of us were at our wits end. Super tired and fatigued. <br />Finally
after some spirited hiking, which involved crossing :<br />1. Thick
bushes <br />2. Spider wall, <br />3. 3 Rivers, in two of which I slipped and wet my shoe<br />4. Extended walks on boulders<br />.. We reached Pandavsera, a vast meadow with a gentle sound of flowing water and a clay bed filled with small boulders. </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oIkVWkGkL3w/X3saI7vI2bI/AAAAAAAASwI/Atx45-N-FKEtbyhk0nIj3o3qA9I0AniSACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200929_112527.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oIkVWkGkL3w/X3saI7vI2bI/AAAAAAAASwI/Atx45-N-FKEtbyhk0nIj3o3qA9I0AniSACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200929_112527.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">View enroute to Pandavsera<br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;"> </span></span><br /></span></span><p></p><p><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yJChT2ggI58/X3saIGuDqbI/AAAAAAAASwA/EXHjRNLRBZYkJ_AVlA2Fm31Hea10Jz93wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200929_103855.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yJChT2ggI58/X3saIGuDqbI/AAAAAAAASwA/EXHjRNLRBZYkJ_AVlA2Fm31Hea10Jz93wCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200929_103855.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Rivers, boulders and tired shoulders!</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9QFg5e9h1Vc/X3saJVQjvvI/AAAAAAAASwQ/1ZA5R-moGks-oCa6tLWwoizS-EQ2xPVqgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200929_123325.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9QFg5e9h1Vc/X3saJVQjvvI/AAAAAAAASwQ/1ZA5R-moGks-oCa6tLWwoizS-EQ2xPVqgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200929_123325.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Waterfall # 3</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BgV4NBgbdKs/X3saJToUCJI/AAAAAAAASwM/GnYFPFJ9G7041n1JmTgSuhvqm03Cm4BzQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200929_143122.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BgV4NBgbdKs/X3saJToUCJI/AAAAAAAASwM/GnYFPFJ9G7041n1JmTgSuhvqm03Cm4BzQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200929_143122.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Right before the final descent and climb to Pandavsera</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></span> <br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">It reminded me of all the meditation videos I watch on youtube. The sound of flowing water and wind. Didn't need youtube there to relax. <br />There is also a temple there where Ashutosh spent some time clicking pictures. Me and Prashant were really hungry and just wanted to setup camp and eat. <br />Pandavsera is
a huge meadow with a rivulet running across it. It is flanked by
mountains on all sides. From there you can see the path to be taken ahead i.e. towards Nandikund. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></span></p><p><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nRS0Z0HRdf8/X3saJvffgPI/AAAAAAAASwU/4wqKJ8P1aVkuw8w-q4bK6pBLOsa1la2AwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200929_163617.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nRS0Z0HRdf8/X3saJvffgPI/AAAAAAAASwU/4wqKJ8P1aVkuw8w-q4bK6pBLOsa1la2AwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200929_163617.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Pandavsera, the land where the pandavas stayed</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />We found the caves where trekkers usually camp and pitched our tents near it. We used the cave shelter for cooking and called it a day. It was a bit weird to notice people having written their names on the cave walls. Why? Why would you think you're so important? </span></span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />You can take the man out of lodhi garden but you can't take the lodhi garden out of the man. </span></span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><br />(For the uninitiated : People scribble their names on Trees in Lodhi Garden, a public garden in Delhi) </i><br /></span></span><h1 style="text-align: left;"></h1><h1 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><span>Day 4 Pandavsera to Nandikund to Pandavsera</span></span></h1><h2><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></h2><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">The day before was really hard on everyone. I slept for 10 hours, without having dinner. <br />Our plan was to leave our camp stuff at the campsite, zoom to Ghiya Vinayak whilst only carrying clothes, water and a few snacks. <br />We managed to leave at around 8:20 am after getting done with our morning chores. <br />Ghiya Vinayak was already a difficult proposition due to our lethargy. But then, we also needed to rest properly and get adequate sleep to recover our tired muscles. <br />The
trail to Nandikund starts from the campsite and disappears soon. From thereon, one
has to figure out their way from between the boulders. It's hard on the
knees, a slight lapse in judgement can do some serious damage to your
ankles. <br />It's frustrating too. <br /></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vWMfiCRQZ18/X3sb3T3tfrI/AAAAAAAASw4/pEJSraLUcNI-guGOWan6Lo6w3L_nt0jeACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_083458.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vWMfiCRQZ18/X3sb3T3tfrI/AAAAAAAASw4/pEJSraLUcNI-guGOWan6Lo6w3L_nt0jeACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200930_083458.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t8O9uz8W_04/X3sb3QXlwrI/AAAAAAAASw0/-xJMypvgr80ad6qAJQ5_WnqJlhLoM4bsQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_083506.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t8O9uz8W_04/X3sb3QXlwrI/AAAAAAAASw0/-xJMypvgr80ad6qAJQ5_WnqJlhLoM4bsQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200930_083506.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vWMfiCRQZ18/X3sb3T3tfrI/AAAAAAAASw4/pEJSraLUcNI-guGOWan6Lo6w3L_nt0jeACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_083458.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The river at Pandavsera</span></span><br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t8O9uz8W_04/X3sb3QXlwrI/AAAAAAAASw0/-xJMypvgr80ad6qAJQ5_WnqJlhLoM4bsQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_083506.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"></a><br /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SPACtFtOaXk/X3sb43DdudI/AAAAAAAASxE/NEnXipY5U4EWMpzpQN2wT1p6Ggx1ma6vgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_111534.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SPACtFtOaXk/X3sb43DdudI/AAAAAAAASxE/NEnXipY5U4EWMpzpQN2wT1p6Ggx1ma6vgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200930_111534.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">More boulders..</span></span><br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M_WRvP-oqSw/X3sb4Qmt2qI/AAAAAAAASw8/-GymXf1CPfUSEf6Tt-W5cR4JV1fUqF8dgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_091656.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M_WRvP-oqSw/X3sb4Qmt2qI/AAAAAAAASw8/-GymXf1CPfUSEf6Tt-W5cR4JV1fUqF8dgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200930_091656.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Animal footprints near the river</span></span><br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">After the boulders, there is a steep incline on more boulders interspersed with Grassy patches which somewhat help you get a grip.<br />I didn't pace myself well and faced breathlessness due to the rising altitude. <br />You also start noticing brahm kamal and phen kamal flowers here.</span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eix7Wog61Pw/X3sb4skMimI/AAAAAAAASxA/A8CQP-25eQ4TreD_pVl8xu9_YsQpR5vCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_101750_Bokeh.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eix7Wog61Pw/X3sb4skMimI/AAAAAAAASxA/A8CQP-25eQ4TreD_pVl8xu9_YsQpR5vCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200930_101750_Bokeh.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Brahmkamal</span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iN80u9wgVN4/X3sb5YOU6_I/AAAAAAAASxM/0CmteOAZWgUiVYlwvUCLRDyaKnA35tTSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_121730.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iN80u9wgVN4/X3sb5YOU6_I/AAAAAAAASxM/0CmteOAZWgUiVYlwvUCLRDyaKnA35tTSgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200930_121730.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Phen kamal</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /><span style="font-size: small;">After crossing the water stream and boulder patch, there's
a waterfall visible which as per our guide has to be our immediate next target. <br />There's some
more ascent until you reach another boulder patch with bigger rocks and lesser grass. <br />Following the river stream will eventually lead you to Nandikund. <br /><br /></span></span><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KiQOsDbGVcw/X3sdRzRRCTI/AAAAAAAASyA/81E2SOjdzp40F8JRd5gl2nEI3lNjraJhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_100415.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KiQOsDbGVcw/X3sdRzRRCTI/AAAAAAAASyA/81E2SOjdzp40F8JRd5gl2nEI3lNjraJhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200930_100415.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Steep climb towards Nandikund</span></span><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table></span><br />There are a few water sources, the water from the river is not drinkable due to the clay. <br />We reached Nandikund after 4 hours of relentless climbing up boulders.<br />A
clear bluish-green (is there a name for it?) coloured Lake flanked by mountains on all sides. The waters
were calm and there were little ripples due to the wind. It felt like
the world has stood still, time has stopped moving, such is the beauty of this lake.<br /><br />I sat next to the lake and stared at it, noticing my heartbeat recede. It makes a lot of sense that our mythology points to places like these as the venue of monks attaining nirvana or at least places where they go to meditate. </span></span><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5CPmdJIDWPA/X3seEVtXE2I/AAAAAAAASyI/dpsVNwb_TREgKjS_z7we43Go47Lw3icfQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_123250.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5CPmdJIDWPA/X3seEVtXE2I/AAAAAAAASyI/dpsVNwb_TREgKjS_z7we43Go47Lw3icfQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200930_123250.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Magnificent Nandikund; Ghiya Vinayak pass visible in background</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />There's a temple at the lake too, where the weapons of the Pandavas are kept as per folklore. A lot of idols are there too. <br /></span><br /></span><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ECeDt9adozw/X3sb5o0G9_I/AAAAAAAASxU/XjeVBYzgPjM6Ao3IW3GNhTKyQpEEgshnwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_125032.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ECeDt9adozw/X3sb5o0G9_I/AAAAAAAASxU/XjeVBYzgPjM6Ao3IW3GNhTKyQpEEgshnwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200930_125032.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Temple with Ancient (?) swords at Nandikund</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">We spent a lot of time at the lake, admired it's beauty and left back for pandavsera.<br />Sadly, we decided against going to Ghiya Vinayak since we would be late for the trip back to pandavsera. You do not want to descend on boulders without day light by your side. <br />The descent was quite tricky too, mainly because of the boulders. Some of them making you dance without any good decent background music (but you can just imagine songs in your head).<br />We reached the campsite back at 4:30 pm and called it a day.<br /><br /></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7726L8iy504/X3sb6alPPkI/AAAAAAAASxc/B1dE6nMQ3EEUIFpUQZfVcC6kCNdernUgACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20200930_191902.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7726L8iy504/X3sb6alPPkI/AAAAAAAASxc/B1dE6nMQ3EEUIFpUQZfVcC6kCNdernUgACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20200930_191902.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Moonlit campsite</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pandavsera
deserves a special description, such beauty makes you "think". We are so
insignificantly small in the grand scheme of things. It's terribly sad
that there's so much beauty in this world that your eyes don't even
believe it at first.<br />Instead of exploring this world, what do we
do? Fight for jobs with employers that don't respect us, hunt for money
like it's all that matters. Tell ourselves that we "don't have time" to
travel. <br />All these thoughts occupied my mind as I strolled towards my campsite at a leisurely pace. Occasionally tripping on small rocks. <br />The
lush green plains, the high mountains, the clouds hanging above, the
sun setting in the horizon, the water peacefully flowing next to me. <br />Nature is an artist, the best there has ever been. <br />Why did it create us though? <br /></span></span></p><h1 style="text-align: left;"></h1><h1 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><span>Day 5 Pandavsera to Kachni Dhar</span></span></h1><h2><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></h2><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">After having successfully completed Nandikund, my mind was at peace and there was only thing left to do. Return.<br />Whether you go from Kachni to Pandavsera or the other way around, the effort is invariably the same. You face the same hurdles. It isn't like going from a high altitude to a low altitude is going to be easy, not in this case atleast. <br />What worked for us today was the fact that we were cognizant about the roller-coaster of a day we were looking forward to. <br />Perhaps that's why research is very important before going on any trek. When we have knowledge on what to expect, we can pace ourselves accordingly, save our breath for steep climbs, target campsite timelines. <br />We started very leisurely today at 10 am. Perhaps, we weren't looking forward to returning. <br />Our guide told us that he hasn't taken any clients back the same way on this trek before. For us, no other way was possible since the car was parked at Ransi. </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yPuTLc7tc1U/X3seibbebtI/AAAAAAAASyU/AApHsg5h3QE-0uNR-GA6A9us0qyLzwl-ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201001_094933.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yPuTLc7tc1U/X3seibbebtI/AAAAAAAASyU/AApHsg5h3QE-0uNR-GA6A9us0qyLzwl-ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201001_094933.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Temple at Pandavsera</span></span><br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">Crossing over from Ghiya Vinayak pass would've been much better, in terms of variety and difficulty. <br />After re-living the ordeal of those 3 valley-peak combinations, we reached Kachani close to sunset. The weather played mischief in the afternoon, which prompted us to pull out our ponchos. <br />However, a poncho turned out to be a deterrent in climbing steep ascending trails. <br />As I reached Kachani camp site, I looked back at Pandavsera. Looks beautiful from a distance, looks even better when you're there. <br />Feels like it's right there, close to you, but in reality makes you work to get there. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">Like all good things in life, right?</span></span></p><h1 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">Day 6 Kachani to Gaundhar </span><br /></span></span></h1><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">Most trekkers hate the return trip, it gets even worse when you have to return the same way.<br />Worse still, if that "same way" is extremely tiring.<br />Leisurely leaving the camp at 10:30 am, me and Ashutosh started walking back to Gaundhar. Prashant had left earlier than us because he wanted to do a side trek to Budha Madhmaheshwar. <br />Today was all about descending. From 4100m to 1600m, over a distance of 19 km.<br />On our way back, around the 2nd climb from where we can start spotting Madhmaheshwar, there's a temple above the regular trail. I thought it would be a good idea to climb the ridge above that temple and get a view which would be comparable to the one from Budha Madhmaheshwar. <br />So I went on that side trek and managed to spot Mandani Peak (20318 ft) and a brief glimpse of Kedarnath dome peak. <br />This was however, after an hour of sitting on that narrow ridge waiting for the clouds to pass.<br />I also saw the temple from the inside and noticed that it seems to have been abandoned, perhaps temporarily. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">On the descent from the ridge, I saw wreckage of a helicopter. There was a helicopter crash in this area in the 90s and the entire trail is littered with various helicopter parts. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vF9rd6-kV54/X3se4UwXu6I/AAAAAAAASyc/OXyJEGPjQLoCFpFDcJ3vW3MiKbS3Yg6nQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201002_130318.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1154" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vF9rd6-kV54/X3se4UwXu6I/AAAAAAAASyc/OXyJEGPjQLoCFpFDcJ3vW3MiKbS3Yg6nQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201002_130318.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">View from Ridge top</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GZ9fvaGTpvY/X3se4UgVYYI/AAAAAAAASyg/KT9rlmAvGj4qgfP6zZUwRXo25eKR-e3RgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201002_130439.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GZ9fvaGTpvY/X3se4UgVYYI/AAAAAAAASyg/KT9rlmAvGj4qgfP6zZUwRXo25eKR-e3RgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201002_130439.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Side trek shenanigans</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K8Ff3aSkzjo/X3se4y4fE1I/AAAAAAAASyk/HxDeTBhTOoIOZUsroJn4flxV-Mbe-Wk8gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201002_135640.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1154" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K8Ff3aSkzjo/X3se4y4fE1I/AAAAAAAASyk/HxDeTBhTOoIOZUsroJn4flxV-Mbe-Wk8gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201002_135640.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Helicopter Wreckage</span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QcATQ7ytR6o/X3sfIiugYOI/AAAAAAAASyw/dA8R8ALPGqwDg85bgkMFIye-fKxX0buXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201002_122811.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QcATQ7ytR6o/X3sfIiugYOI/AAAAAAAASyw/dA8R8ALPGqwDg85bgkMFIye-fKxX0buXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201002_122811.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Temple enroute to Kachani</span></span></td></tr></tbody></table></span></span><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A_0GHb2OHXM/X3sfI-AawgI/AAAAAAAASy4/Plepj1YE-_0RR4XP1W7vUl2A60IxZfZbQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201002_122854.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A_0GHb2OHXM/X3sfI-AawgI/AAAAAAAASy4/Plepj1YE-_0RR4XP1W7vUl2A60IxZfZbQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201002_122854.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span><span>Main trail below</span></span></span></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"></span></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nqIaK0yQIyM/X3sfIx6KlII/AAAAAAAASy0/rv324WoGN3IChQKGioTJ_LkAZpxOz3pJACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201002_123119.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nqIaK0yQIyM/X3sfIx6KlII/AAAAAAAASy0/rv324WoGN3IChQKGioTJ_LkAZpxOz3pJACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201002_123119.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">Inside the temple</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">After rejoining the main trail, we started descending towards Madhmaheshwar. <br />Due to an injury to Ashutosh, we were not able to descend quickly but at a very leisurely pace, taking frequent rests and stoppages.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">Soon, it got dark and we were limited to the light of our torches which slowed us down further. As per the villagers, animal attacks are very rare on the trail and it's relatively safe to walk even in the dark. </span></span></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C8d3wBz_0UA/X3sf2iAH_qI/AAAAAAAASzU/RO0ivDOahe4go9jWcEkhcAYEhycl3pS0ACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201002_193945.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8eCy12yhYcM/X3sf2tqDyuI/AAAAAAAASzM/mFb-g2znfnw6gfhVm9oP4nS7cwaRq6aGQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201002_175750.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8eCy12yhYcM/X3sf2tqDyuI/AAAAAAAASzM/mFb-g2znfnw6gfhVm9oP4nS7cwaRq6aGQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201002_175750.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">The pink clouds..</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></span></a></span></div><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MH_AoNMMquk/X3sf2ttSGrI/AAAAAAAASzQ/Ah0FSKUXJ-YyEKTYzqQr51WPqOhm0EE3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_20201002_182405.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MH_AoNMMquk/X3sf2ttSGrI/AAAAAAAASzQ/Ah0FSKUXJ-YyEKTYzqQr51WPqOhm0EE3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201002_182405.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;">...and the evening sky</span></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C8d3wBz_0UA/X3sf2iAH_qI/AAAAAAAASzU/RO0ivDOahe4go9jWcEkhcAYEhycl3pS0ACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/IMG_20201002_193945.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: arial;"><span>Spider in the dark! (Flashlight pic)</span></span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />We ran into a lot of incoming tourists/pilgrims headed towards Madhmaheshwar. The fatigue on their faces wasn't something we were unfamiliar with. They would ask us "how far?" and I would say "Abhi toh hai kaafi" (still a long way to go). </span></span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />Something our guide had kept telling us. Oh, how the turntables!</span></span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br />Strolling due to our constraints, we reached Gaundhar at 9 pm and called it a day. A very long day. </span></span><h1 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><span>Day 7 Gaundhar to Ransi</span></span></h1><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">Determined to take a shower and eat a hearty breakfast in Ransi, we sped towards Ransi quite early in the morning, around 6:30 am. By 7:30 am, we were at the road head adjacent to Ransi and in the next 20 minutes we had reached the location of the car. <br /></span></span></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">I took a shower and ate to my heart's desire. Eating dal rice for 5 days back to back can have it's toll on you. Quite often, you walk fast while returning because you're walking towards food that isn't dal rice. <br /></span></span></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">We ran into a lot of people going towards Madhmaheshwar today as well. <br />I ran into a trekker and told him this was my first trek and I'm happy it's done. He gave me some tips on how to be a good trekker. Prashant and Ashutosh smiled in the background.<br />The trek was over while I was still in denial that amidst all the craziness in the world today, we were able to make it happen in the first place. </span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">Reminiscing about the whole experience, the visuals of Nandikund, the formidable boulders, the waterfalls and the rare but beautiful level trails gave this whole trek quite a variety. <br />Every day was a different challenge. Some days we felt like we couldn't reach our planned campsite but we pushed anyway and made it happen. </span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">In hindsight, we could've planned a little better and added another day of camping at Nandikund and reach Ghiya Vinayak pass. <br /><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;">Driving all this while and then hiking is an experience I didn't have before. Neither did the guys. It has its perks but also can be mentally tiring.<br />I looked back at Ransi one final time, wishing there was more time. Content about ending a long overdue adventure, I got into the driver's seat and pulled out my sunglasses.<br /><br /><i><b>"Don't cry because it's over, smile because it happened" - Dr. Seuss. </b></i><br /></span></span></div><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><br /></span></span>Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-75190514714249917742020-01-15T23:40:00.003-08:002020-01-16T20:48:34.961-08:00Kedarkantha Winter trek<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The last 3-4 months of my life had stretched me completely, mentally, physically and emotionally.<br />
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Consequently, what happened to me was what happens to a lot of "travelers". My passion for trekking took a major back seat as I had to deal with various other life issues.<br />
<br />
I decided to break the monotonous streak and do what I love the most.<br />
<br />
<b>Why Kedarkantha?</b><br />
<br />
1. I am familiar on how to reach the base camp, Sankri, since I've trekked Har ki dun before.<br />
<br />
2. A simpler trek to get back in the groove.<br />
<br />
3. Only trek I haven't done which is doable in winters. There was Dayara Bugyal too but in my head, it was too mainstream. This is an opinion that changed after I actually did Kedarkantha.<br />
<br />
So, I ended up searching for a local to guide me. The local knew a guy, who knew a guy and like that, I ended up with Rajesh Rana who runs an agency (Himalayas Griffon) and charges Rs 7500 from Dehradun to Dehradun.<br />
Now there is no way I would encourage an agency when I know they're purely commercial but I did remember the efforts one has to take in reaching Sankri.<br />
<br />
So, for this one time, for getting back in the groove. I decided to go ahead with the "package" (hate that word).<br />
I wouldn't need to plan anything. Just reach Dehradun and they'll take care of the rest, hopefully.<br />
<br />
Luxury.<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 0 Delhi to Dehradun to Sankri</h3>
I took a late night bus from Anand vihar bus stand to Dehradun. I just realized that for Uttarakhand treks, it is a far better option for me to board the bus from Anand Vihar than Kashmiri Gate.<br />
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Most private buses have a boarding point at Anand Vihar.<br />
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I reached Dehradun in the wee hours of Saturday, met up with my contact there and the rest of the trekker group. Barring a few, most of them were first timers, which is understandable since Kedarkantha is one of the easiest treks in the Indian Himalayas.<br />
<br />
We all boarded the traveler and started towards Sankri. I had multiple bouts of motion sickness. Something about the route to Sankri that torments my stomach everytime. Albeit, this time, I expected it and it didn't bother me much mentally.<br />
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I was asleep for most parts of the journey but important checkpoints on the route are Dehradun -> Purola -> Mori -> Sankri.<br />
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We reached Sankri by evening and settled in the homestay reserved for the agencies "Riding solo" and "Himalayas Griffon".<br />
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Sankri, suprisingly was covered in snow. I did hear about the unusually high snowfall this year but didn't expect it to be present in Sankri, which is barely 7700 ft.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FgexTtHHa1g/XiAIVYCl3ZI/AAAAAAAASNA/gpUilJmSB-oYwNw-vXgrJ80eFixFAqS4wCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20200111_173833.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FgexTtHHa1g/XiAIVYCl3ZI/AAAAAAAASNA/gpUilJmSB-oYwNw-vXgrJ80eFixFAqS4wCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20200111_173833.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Sankri Homestay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
<br />Day 1 Sankri to Jainola campsite ~ 3 kms</h3>
I woke up in Sankri to a really cloudy morning, which was bad news for summit expectations.<br />
Sankri is covered with snow everywhere. The weather was cold but not unbearably so.<br />
<br />
The group was very lazy and it took everyone a long time to get ready.<br />
We started walking at 11 am.<br />
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There's just a lot of gradual ascent which leads to a tea stall across a bridge. I couldn't keep up with the group's pace as I can't possibly walk very slow. It tires me faster.<br />
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The trail was completely covered with snow and we were given micro spikes which made life easier. The guide kept reminding us of the bad snow conditions to keep the expectations realistic.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MBXpF2BKRfA/XiAK_zGQO4I/AAAAAAAASNQ/HSYZ2Jca0L8g8VhDqmAiqNh3UOopd-qWgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20200112_114841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MBXpF2BKRfA/XiAK_zGQO4I/AAAAAAAASNQ/HSYZ2Jca0L8g8VhDqmAiqNh3UOopd-qWgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20200112_114841.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
Snow covered trail to Jainola</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FOqn3bjw4QQ/XiAK_-G1hxI/AAAAAAAASNQ/nlBXB6f5mpo_qCga2h50fgMZYo-tRMGrwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20200112_131109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FOqn3bjw4QQ/XiAK_-G1hxI/AAAAAAAASNQ/nlBXB6f5mpo_qCga2h50fgMZYo-tRMGrwCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20200112_131109.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful view en route</td></tr>
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About an hour into the walk, you reach the tea stall.<br />
I had tea there and helped out a trekker with arranging his backpack. The trail was fully covered in snow all along. After taking liberal breaks, It took me 3 hours to reach Jainola campsite.<br />
<br />
There are 3 campsites.<br />
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One at Juda ka taal and a couple before it (Jainola and Hargaon or something).<br />
The campsite for the agency was at Jainola, which is in a valley of sorts. Surrounded by mountains, which results in a very late sunrise.<br />
I had some rest, lot of warm tea and explored the campsite.<br />
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I was content with just being in the mountains. This level of remoteness caters to my liking. I had enough layers to keep me warm throughout the day. I was certainly glad I brought the down jacket along.<br />
Temperature at Jainola must be around 0 to a few degrees below in the night. Plus, there was that additional wind chill factor.<br />
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There were around 30-40 tents in the entire campsite. From asking around, there were at least 10 agencies taking "clients" for "snow camping" at Kedarkantha.<br />
<i>Please note, the double quotes in the above sentence are not by mistake.</i><br />
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It was disappointing to see that most trekkers were just not cognizant of the mindset one needs to have in the mountains. Extreme cold, adverse conditions, tired feet.. they're just a very small price one "has to pay" for the grandeur of the mountains.<br />
<br />
A sumptuous dinner later we called it a day.<br />
I slept hoping the weather clears up tomorrow. Albeit the fact that there clouds hanging right above our heads. But hey, hope is the most beautiful of things, isn't it? (<i>Shawshank redemption reference</i>)<br />
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Day 2 Jainola to base camp and back to Jainola ~ 6-7 kms</h3>
I woke up early to the sound of birds. I had a great 10 hr sleep and was very relaxed.<br />
The weather looked Cloudy from the beginning.<br />
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The group got ready by 11 am and we all started to walk towards Juda ka talaab.<br />
It was about ~ 50 minutes of gentle ascent to reach there.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Route to Juda ka Talaab</td></tr>
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I had a company of a couple of trekkers from my group, as we had similar pace of walking compared to the others.<br />
We decided to March forwards towards Kedarkantha base camp as there wasn't much to explore in Juda ka Talaab.<br />
The word "Juda" means joined. Two lakes joined and now it's a joint lake, aka, Juda ka Talaab.<br />
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It took us approximately an hour to reach the Base camp. By just following the trail one can easily reach the base camp, there are no noticeable detours. In my opinion, no guide is needed for Kedarkantha but it's something mandated by the forest officials since this is a national park ("Govind pashu national park")<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost at Basecamp</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heavy snow at Base camp - Kedarkantha</td></tr>
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There was a lot of snowing but we carried on. I had unwisely left my poncho at the camp.<br />
It was quite an enriching experience walking in snow, the landscape was white as far as the eye can see.<br />
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There was no point left in going for the summit due to the worsening weather.<br />
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The summit is another 2 hours of trek from the base camp. 4 hours for "clients" ;)<br />
We headed back to Jainola and reached there in around 1.5 hrs of fun filled descent in the soft snow. Some of the guys opted to slide at certain sections, I however refrained due to the fragile condition of my hiking pants (and the lack of a backup).<br />
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We reached back to Jainola around lunch time. 2:30 PM. I promptly changed into dry clothes to avoid any health issues from being too cold.<br />
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I looked around at the camp and the clouds overhead, snowfall had picked up and now it was a full fledged snow deluge. It was beautiful and a tad bit of concern at the same time.<br />
We took cover in our tents and spent the next few hours shaking off the excessive snow from the tents.<br />
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I reminisced about the whole experience and despite having had so many experiences in the mountains, this was also unique. I gained a level of comfort with walking on snow and understood the importance of microspikes.<br />
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....And with all that behind me.. the trek was over.<br />
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The experience from Jainola back to Sankri was pretty much the same as when ascending, so I'm skipping that part.<br />
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Kedarkantha, unfortunately is getting too commercialized for my taste. It's just a matter of time before the forest department wakes up and decides to regulate the number of people going there.<br />
I hope it happens soon because there's an ugly commercial aspect to this place now. From what it seems, even the forest department is encouraging agencies :<br />
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Something which was meant to be sacred should stay sacred.<br />
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Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-38530193765513230722019-07-16T01:02:00.003-07:002019-07-16T21:05:05.661-07:00Lama Lambri Pass trek <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Day 0 - Delhi to Aut</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I've always had certain skills. For better or for worse, spending extended periods of time in isolation is one of them. It doesn't bother me as much as it might for most people.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So I'm off to Aut and then to Banjar and then to Gushaini from where I'll be spoiled for choices on which trek to go to.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">GHNP sounds nice, so does Marahni pass, where I couldn't go when I was here last. I could choose to chill at Rolla and go to Shilt hut or maybe try going to Tirth.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This is a first. I'm going to the base village and I have no idea where I'll go from there. To be honest, I don't care as long as I find peace. God knows I need it.</span><br>
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Day 1 - Aut to Banjar to Gushaini to Sharchi</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I reached Gushaini fairly earlier than last time (which was around 2 pm, if I remember correctly).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As soon as I deboarded the bus at Aut, I got a bus at around 9 am which dropped me to Banjar by 10:30 am. From there, I boarded another bus to Gushaini which left from Banjar at 11 am. By 11:40 am, I was at Prabhat homestay which is in a village called "Naglari" in Gushaini. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Resting and Lunch at Prabhat homestay</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On arrival, I felt unusually tired and had a haze in front of my eyes. It was strange since I had slept so much in the bus.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I passed out in the room at Prabhat homestay and woke up at 3:30 pm. After which, I promptly ate lunch, got ready and left for base camp village.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My contact in Tirthan, Ashish dropped me to a village called Sharchi.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Apparently, I'm doing Lama Lambri pass trek. The plan is to ascend from Sharchi to the ridge top, a few more meters of climb and I'll reach Lambri pass.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Fresh pear plucked from Tree</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">End of road at Sharchi village</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From there, I'll walk to Serosalar lake and then meet road head at Jalori pass.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With this, I can even go to Manali on Monday, grab lunch from there and then board the bus to Delhi next day.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I can also choose to stay in Manali. But I don't see why I'd want to do that, considering I find it boring.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">That comes later, right now I'm at a food tent near the first camp site in Sharchi. Sharchi, I must say rivals only Osla (near Har ki dun) in terms of true Himalayan heritage, beauty and cleanliness.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There is a temple there for their goddess in the middle of an open ground. As per tradition, every year on April 14th or 15th, depending upon the stars, the villagers hike all the way to lambri, chop the highest possible tree in the area, bring it back to Sharchi and erect it in front of the temple.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Ashish tells me that kids here are sensitized about usage and disposal of plastic from a very early age. Result? Beautiful, grass covered sprawling village without ANY garbage.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I walked a little further from Sharchi and camped at a meadow, the food tent is nearby and we're just giving them our rations so they can cook, since they have LPG which is much better than cooking on firewood.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tomorrow we would reach Lambri top, where I'm being told there would be shepherds, who we'll cook with. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Sharchi village; neat and clean</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Long tree temple offering</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Camp @ Sharchi meadow</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Everything is sorted.</span><br>
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Day 2 Sharchi to Lama Lambri pass</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The trek to Lambri starts from the tree cover. No rocket science, you just have to climb, quite a lot. I was happy that the weather was clear. In half an hour, I reached a campsite which my guide tells me is a heaven for bird watchers. I mostly do all my bird watching in Delhi, if you know what I mean, so I trotted on forward. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">About an hour into the trek, it started raining heavily. Thunderous ramblings of the clouds, you could feel it's happening somewhere right above your head. Terrifying, yet, Beautiful.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">But.. I had to take refuge under a tree. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It started getting cold and I was shivering. After about an hour of waiting, the rain subsided and turned into a drizzle which was manageable. I came prepared and had a poncho. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Ascent from there on was relentless, I was losing steam since it had been a while since I last ate. I just wanted to get out of the tree line and into the meadow asap. Walking in a meadow is an experience. It's like walking into a wallpaper of Windows XP. Also, the area was rich in fauna like wild strawberries, other berries, herbs and flowers. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NytRWu5PDcw/XS19PGyJLVI/AAAAAAAARx8/eHotX0raA_Ap79p3bIkTZcryHhLfIVtiwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190713_091621_Bokeh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NytRWu5PDcw/XS19PGyJLVI/AAAAAAAARx8/eHotX0raA_Ap79p3bIkTZcryHhLfIVtiwCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190713_091621_Bokeh.jpg" width="240"></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Nagphool; carnivorous plant</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tea can be made out of this tree's bark; has anti-carcinogenic properties</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After a couple of hours of breath consuming climb, I reached a ridge, which introduces you to the final stretch of climb.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My guide happy suggested we have lunch here and I agreed. I needed food.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We took lunch, had ample rest and then climbed the remaining stretch in about half an hour.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Never underestimate the power of a well fed trekker!</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_FEKibl2nA0/XS19YLZ0-WI/AAAAAAAARxc/XMdsZAsUdOM9ce6HDeLxrSpfXpheoZFIQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190713_131924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_FEKibl2nA0/XS19YLZ0-WI/AAAAAAAARxc/XMdsZAsUdOM9ce6HDeLxrSpfXpheoZFIQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190713_131924.jpg" width="320"></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Ridge before final ascent to Lambri Pass</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now my guide had told me about an expansive meadow but what I saw there was out of this world.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Huge, huge open area covered with grass. You could feel it's softness while walking on it. Imagine Ali Bugyal, combine it with Bedni Bugyal, even then it would pale in comparison.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I'm surprised nobody talks about this place, walking here was therapeutic. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We decided to camp near the Shepherd campsite, which was at a gentle descent from Lambri top. At the moment of writing this, I'm safely tucked in the tent and it's raining cats and dogs outside.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Phew! Close shave!</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lCzYlwbK7TM/XS19YwlzoOI/AAAAAAAARx8/ssso78C5UL4yF74OyB6p_62aghvqf2ECQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190713_142328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lCzYlwbK7TM/XS19YwlzoOI/AAAAAAAARx8/ssso78C5UL4yF74OyB6p_62aghvqf2ECQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190713_142328.jpg" width="320"></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Lama Lambri meadow</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yQIOvL4joNs/XS19oDnWEcI/AAAAAAAARyE/QHQXNwAEJ6oHU811eLy7nM6KlPJm26IigCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190713_143108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="206" data-original-width="1600" height="41" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yQIOvL4joNs/XS19oDnWEcI/AAAAAAAARyE/QHQXNwAEJ6oHU811eLy7nM6KlPJm26IigCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190713_143108.jpg" width="320"></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Lama Lambri Panorama from up top</span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">[Update at night]: </span></b><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We set up a bonfire since it started to get marginally cold, right now I'm sitting besides the said bonfire under a rock shelter. The moon is shining, a cow is just standing suspiciously still and there are noises coming from the jungle. The guide tells me to not worry, so I'm doing my best.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I'm literally tempted to have a conversation with the cow ("So.. how's the grass over here?").</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At some point, I should think about my psychological well being.</span><br>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
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Day 3 Lama Lambri to Serosalar lake</span></h3>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I had a slightly uncomfortable sleep due to the tent being on a downward slope as a result of which, feet got cold. But I slept for 10 hours nevertheless.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Oh and btw, happy birthday to me!</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We started trekking a little late today around 10:30 am. I spent quite some time sitting on a rock just observing what's going around me, the sheep and goats going about their business, the cows mooing like it's some sort of a compulsion. Shepherds making noises to regulate the livestock. Quite an ecosystem there. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Played a lot with this fella, Dabbu</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After breakfast, we marched forward to Serosalar lake.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There was an initial climb back to the Meadows, from there the trail runs into a zig zag sequence of ascents and descents. I was tired, thoughts about maybe I should've just stuck to having a regular birthday. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j3Rws7KlbGM/XS19kn-JZQI/AAAAAAAARxw/LS2Npnc28MkWLPLmxdfzVJv2sjClbGMQwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190714_112018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j3Rws7KlbGM/XS19kn-JZQI/AAAAAAAARxw/LS2Npnc28MkWLPLmxdfzVJv2sjClbGMQwCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190714_112018.jpg" width="320"></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Direction markers at every ridge top</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">That and a 12 kg backpack. That's right, I was carrying my tent and heavy sleeping bag which I think should replace in the future.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After 2:30 hrs of arduous climb and descent, we came across a ridge. It was at this point that it started raining really heavily.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At the point of writing this, I've taken a refuge in a shepherds tent. I've gotten wet, I'm shivering.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">"Cold is just a feeling".</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It appears the rain is slowing down, so there's hope. My left thumb is frozen. Nah, my left hand.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">An hour away from Serosalar is what the shepherd told me.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So, in ideal weather conditions, 3 hrs 30 minutes is how long it takes from Lambri to Serosalar. Fair enough, I told myself.</span><br>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">[Update at night]:</span></b><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Fuck everything you just read. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The trail to Serosalar is a legitimate badass. It's what I found out later.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The short nap at the shepherd cost me a lot, I was wet and I should've just stayed active.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My body started to hurt and I felt weak, possibly the cold got me. I could feel chest congestion.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I resumed walking at 2:30 pm from the shepherd hut. The trail was gentle at first but then was.. non existent. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My guide took us to a trail in which I couldn't see where I was stepping and there was about 60 ft drop, total valley exposure. I was already weak but then I got screwed up in the head. I wasn't certainly expecting this. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I asked him if there's another way, there was and we took it. The other way was marginally longer and only marginally safer.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>But it didn't matter.</i> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Fucking rock face. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For a good half an hour. Imagine climbing up a rock which is freshly wet and slippery due to rain. It certainly bought back memories of Pin Parvati but then in Pin Parvati that's normal. I didn't expect this here.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The incline was 80 degrees. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The wind was out of my fucking sails.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After this ordeal, you reach a ridge. A beautiful grass covered ridge, stick to the left and walk leisurely, like I did and you'll reach another shepherd encampment. I had warm water there and there was fire. So yeah, fire was great.I heated myself up.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thankfully, Serosalar lake is just 20 minutes downhill from there.</span><br>
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<b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">About Serosalar:</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It's full blown tourist spot. You'll get food, accommodation and just about everything you'll need after a grueling day of trekking.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The lake is pretty big, neatly fenced, probably 400 m diameter. There are "hotels" on either side of the lake. Fully commercialized but I'm not complaining. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Db6-l7YvoEU/XS19xZsAUjI/AAAAAAAARx8/X5l2_FJ3Kjk8DD9coY5_naIzbundeBJAgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190715_071309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Db6-l7YvoEU/XS19xZsAUjI/AAAAAAAARx8/X5l2_FJ3Kjk8DD9coY5_naIzbundeBJAgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190715_071309.jpg" width="320"></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Serosalar temple</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Right now, I'm sitting in front of a tandoor with exhausts on one end, so smoke isn't a problem.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My back hurts. I'm so glad I've seen the end of this. And the weather is looking clear to, now. Once I'm in shade.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In my head I play "Why does it always rain on me" by Coldplay, I just hum a little. Keeps the spirit up :)</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SDl-Q87Dy_E/XS2DgJbS77I/AAAAAAAARyY/9nWOiXU-6MwgRNKJy6OTHtcU7ePQsKLngCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190714_171817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SDl-Q87Dy_E/XS2DgJbS77I/AAAAAAAARyY/9nWOiXU-6MwgRNKJy6OTHtcU7ePQsKLngCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190714_171817.jpg" width="320"></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Snuggling near the Tandoor</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Tomorrow a small trek to Jalori pass and then back to civilization!</span></div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Day 4 Serosalar to Jalori pass</span></h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IyzZVbs7Fhw/XS190eIXnRI/AAAAAAAARyA/g9DdhTso4i4gp5Ke4dI9GHb3Zdy4GUYkQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190715_102007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IyzZVbs7Fhw/XS190eIXnRI/AAAAAAAARyA/g9DdhTso4i4gp5Ke4dI9GHb3Zdy4GUYkQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190715_102007.jpg" width="320"></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Campsites at Jalori, road visible below campsite</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NRcQki1fNFU/XS1904i-MvI/AAAAAAAARyE/BgG2lFIwvEsBeO8llYucG04H_rDoU-dWACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190715_102313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xx-small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NRcQki1fNFU/XS1904i-MvI/AAAAAAAARyE/BgG2lFIwvEsBeO8llYucG04H_rDoU-dWACEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190715_102313.jpg" width="180"></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Jalori temple</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Today was an easy day. Serosalar to Jalori pass only takes an hour and half at most. There's a gradual descent followed by some climbing up, followed by a long level walk right up to Jalori. You'll see food joints at every 15 minutes. </span></span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Jalori pass is full of tents and camp spots, very touristy. There is also a temple which mentions the altitude (3160m), which is same as Serosalar.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">I reached road head at 10:30 am and boarded the bus to Banjar. The bus took an hour and half. </span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">At around 12:30 pm the bus to Aut left from Banjar. As the bus was approaching Larji village, the bridge in front had an accident. One of the metal plates got dislodged and there was a huge jam on either side of the bridge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">The bus driver asked us to de-board and board the bus on the other side. Everyone de-boarded. It later turned out that he was a lying scumbag. There was no bus on the other side. I was starving and now just walking on a road, aimlessly, hoping for a ride from somewhere.</span><br>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">The day was supposed to be done and dusted but it was a rollercoaster. Bad luck wasn't done, after marching towards Kullu, there was another traffic jam. Another scumbag had parked his car on the road, which caused a bottle neck. Another hour wasted. Whats with scumbags these days? Fuck up someone else's day!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xsmall;"></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">After half an hour, I found a cab going towards Kullu. </span></span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: xsmall;"><br></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">I reached Manali at 5:30 pm and ate like there's no tomorrow and booked a bus which leaves late night. </span></span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Well, in the mountains, sometimes bad things happen, landslides, traffic jams, broken bridges, rock falls.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br></span>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The take away is... Gotta be prepared for everything!</span></span></div>
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Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-84567512738027795732019-04-07T20:46:00.001-07:002019-04-09T02:42:25.889-07:00Rangthar Meadow trek<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 0 - Delhi to Aut</h3>
<br />
My last trek was Brahmatal in November, I suppose. I had
been thinking about finally hiking in Nepal for some time but planning
often does not culminate into execution. Especially when it comes to traveling.
I suppose that's organic.<br />
<br />
For me it was due to leave limitations. I'm after all, a rat in a cage with the delusions of purpose.<br />
No more! This rat had had enough!<br />
<br />
Tirthan
valley is home to a lot of beginner level treks which can be easily
done from April onwards. I have been in touch with a local who informed
me of the adverse conditions in the past few weeks. But I just wanted to try my luck nevertheless.<br />
<br />
I planned to hike Marahni peak which is at a moderate altitude of 3600m. A lot of trekkers
judge a trek by it's altitude. I knew enough to avoid doing that. <br />
Although, I did study the altitude profile and it didn't seem to be much. <br />
<br />
The
bus left at 9 pm from ISBT. I planned to deboard at Aut, take a shared cab to
Tourist information centre, GHNP which is in Banjar.The last
road head is a village called Pekhri, which is from where the trek begins. <br />
<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 1 Aut to Banjar to Prabhat homestay</h3>
<br />
I
slept like I'm unconscious for about 10 hrs in the bus. Consequently, I
missed that beautiful twilight glow in the mountains but it's okay. I
think I'll have better views in Tirthan valley.<br />
<br />
At the time of writing
this note, I'm stuck in Aut. The bus to Banjar is taking forever
to arrive and the cab is asking for 1200 INR. Its just too much and I think I'm better off waiting for the state/private bus.<br />
<br />
Also, I think I take pride in doing super economical trips. Roopkund for 3500 Rupees sits at the top of my achievement list. <br />
<br />
As
I sit here in this bus stand dhaba, I have time to reminisce and draw
parallels. Have I waited for a bus before? Umpteen times. <br />
Have I faced uncertainty if I'll get conveyance? Attargu pul, Spiti.<br />
<br />
The
thing with experience is, that it changes what's normal. It extends it.
At this point, there has to be a shit hailstorm for me to actually be
bothered. Everything else is within my tolerance. <br />
<br />
I'm not
looking for something new here, I'll have to try harder and farther for
that. I'm just looking for that odd home away from home feeling. <br />
<br />
<i>To peace!</i><br />
<br />
The bus for Banjar finally arrived and took around an hour to reach Aut. From thereon, I decide to take a cab since the next bus was in an hour's time. I wanted to start hiking today itself or at least give myself the best shot to do that.<br />
<br />
I
reached Prabhat homestay at around 2 pm, after which it became
impractical to proceed further. Tired as I was, I decided to rest and
eat. Eat first, rest later. And ate a lot I did. Also, the weather was quite hot. Cold air but harsh sun.<br />
<br />
The homestay was beautiful and they
offered the room to me for a very decent budget. I slept a lot in the
day, woke up, took a walk outside, ate dinner and called it a day.<br />
<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m0Zg39f8S60/XKq_8B34GyI/AAAAAAAARig/gZn52jSubTMeVBjVdt1k-DQUMQJXrgCVQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190404_131957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m0Zg39f8S60/XKq_8B34GyI/AAAAAAAARig/gZn52jSubTMeVBjVdt1k-DQUMQJXrgCVQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190404_131957.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prabhat Homestay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nJhgWPOmtFE/XKrACWQ48JI/AAAAAAAARiM/TASfAjB6vBMSUJEK13Q5rfc56WXC4VPxACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190405_105135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nJhgWPOmtFE/XKrACWQ48JI/AAAAAAAARiM/TASfAjB6vBMSUJEK13Q5rfc56WXC4VPxACEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190405_105135.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gushaini Village</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 2 Gushaini to Pekhri to Rangthar</h3>
<br />
The guide arrived very late, by that time I had had breakfast and gotten ready.<br />
<br />
After arranging a little bit of ration, we took a cab to Pekhri, which is the last motorable road.<br />
<br />
The
climb from Pekhri is relentless. The heat was also killing my momentum.
I had to take a few breathers in between, grabbed a protein bar, drank
lots of water. Good thing I mixed ORS, felt much better after hydrating. I could sense a headache around the corner though.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a90uz21mcWQ/XKq_6YSs57I/AAAAAAAARiI/gz6JpEbcAl4JjtqAEgPhb1jrGeMgTDgaACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190405_114442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a90uz21mcWQ/XKq_6YSs57I/AAAAAAAARiI/gz6JpEbcAl4JjtqAEgPhb1jrGeMgTDgaACEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190405_114442.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The winding roads to Pekhri</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sat8hWyaON8/XKq__TAQuiI/AAAAAAAARiI/U9v4GmuH7pox07FQmtYmLf_IyV4fTXZEQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190405_115517.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sat8hWyaON8/XKq__TAQuiI/AAAAAAAARiI/U9v4GmuH7pox07FQmtYmLf_IyV4fTXZEQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190405_115517.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hot barren trail towards Lakcha</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mFhbQ2aCtOc/XKrABvil_EI/AAAAAAAARiU/13Yfp0iLTmQMTuf-mACSPyh6Lu0kb27FgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190405_121247_Bokeh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mFhbQ2aCtOc/XKrABvil_EI/AAAAAAAARiU/13Yfp0iLTmQMTuf-mACSPyh6Lu0kb27FgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190405_121247_Bokeh.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful flower in the valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After
about a couple of hours, we reached Lakcha village. It consists of
around 8-9 houses. Also, the last water source. The climb continued and after
an hour more, we reached Rangthar.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pgVJ3G4eEac/XKrAEg8SHkI/AAAAAAAARiY/kpX_6WNf3N8SWNUFIH4ARrjbZeWmVoqyACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190405_125815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pgVJ3G4eEac/XKrAEg8SHkI/AAAAAAAARiY/kpX_6WNf3N8SWNUFIH4ARrjbZeWmVoqyACEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190405_125815.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lakcha</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Rangthar is an open meadow
with great camp spots. We pitched the tent here and decided against
moving forward since we were late (It was 2 pm). I could see snow laden peaks on the other side of the valley but the place is surrounded with low altitude mountains. I reckon around 4000m, this I also corroborated with google terrain maps. Nevertheless, since there has been much more snow this year, I witnessed a great spectacle. No complaints! <br />
<br />
I had a nice long afternoon nap which recharged me to an extent. Thereafter, the guide heated some water for Maggi and then soup.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-93bWsZxuhVw/XKrAIXasJEI/AAAAAAAARiU/flobNsImThYGfNTYeBWXWG3he7L_RbBrACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190405_161502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-93bWsZxuhVw/XKrAIXasJEI/AAAAAAAARiU/flobNsImThYGfNTYeBWXWG3he7L_RbBrACEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190405_161502.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lone camper in the meadow </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Kwcs0Djyaag/XKrAHcqAz_I/AAAAAAAARiU/cj9JS-r2kLoZCVSYWO5Pi-mv5oZ41pApgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190405_143040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Kwcs0Djyaag/XKrAHcqAz_I/AAAAAAAARiU/cj9JS-r2kLoZCVSYWO5Pi-mv5oZ41pApgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190405_143040.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice view from the tent</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vw-J8iwzgqs/XKrAGR6YcnI/AAAAAAAARig/w98DOFQTOsULd0JPdDhlb4YLJY2WhmZvwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190405_140100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vw-J8iwzgqs/XKrAGR6YcnI/AAAAAAAARig/w98DOFQTOsULd0JPdDhlb4YLJY2WhmZvwCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190405_140100.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Low altitude snow capped peaks</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
The weather was unbearably hot and I could feel a certain burning sensation, even inside the tent but then came the clouds.<br />
<br />
Weather
started deteriorating and soon it started hailing. There was a lot of
wind and thunder too. I took refuge in the tent hoping it all goes away.
<br />
<br />
And.. it did. But not before it showcased a certain natural
light show. I saw all sorts of illusory effects which I promptly
captured with my camera. The sky was yellow, half yellow. There was sun
on one side and a storm on the other. I was smack in the middle of it.
What timing, what luck!<br />
<br />
This is why I love being in the mountains, the elements are raw and you feel really close to the elements.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x2f8JcPwopI/XKrAKQId4RI/AAAAAAAARig/iFzoGSiG7R41prvkqXVqbl4RqQ4Z3_79ACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190405_182415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x2f8JcPwopI/XKrAKQId4RI/AAAAAAAARig/iFzoGSiG7R41prvkqXVqbl4RqQ4Z3_79ACEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190405_182415.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes.. Half sun light sky</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QNR5PtWiWrU/XKrAMRhLYRI/AAAAAAAARig/O-cdlzSVngU870HD9Err0SlMaeE-4K_lQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190405_182457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QNR5PtWiWrU/XKrAMRhLYRI/AAAAAAAARig/O-cdlzSVngU870HD9Err0SlMaeE-4K_lQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190405_182457.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scattered sun rays coming from behind the camera</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J8-rL3iRk9o/XKrAJt_iwtI/AAAAAAAARiY/kUXAZUvFFlo3yw_pPBt6J0D9c_R7P-wlwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190405_171330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J8-rL3iRk9o/XKrAJt_iwtI/AAAAAAAARiY/kUXAZUvFFlo3yw_pPBt6J0D9c_R7P-wlwCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20190405_171330.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hail!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As the sun set, I was in for another
treat. I just remembered it's new moon day. I had the full star lit sky in
front of me. So I took my bridge camera out and tried clicking the stars
but to no avail.<br />
<br />
Disappointed, I tried clicking with my phone.
And guess what... Mind boggling pictures! I could see everything..
stars, constellations, Mars, nebula clouds, Venus.. I was in a celestial
overdrive.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IkpELWfU318/XKrAdzJ5ceI/AAAAAAAARis/jJYYlQ9rr6g4yrFvyUxrSRIgrq_Uj1JSQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Nightsky5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IkpELWfU318/XKrAdzJ5ceI/AAAAAAAARis/jJYYlQ9rr6g4yrFvyUxrSRIgrq_Uj1JSQCEwYBhgL/s320/Nightsky5.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_XhY3zCVGo0/XKrAgR1TEAI/AAAAAAAARiw/8-GqJs0-fxkX3hRaEAv4OuNh05O3BChdgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Nightsky6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_XhY3zCVGo0/XKrAgR1TEAI/AAAAAAAARiw/8-GqJs0-fxkX3hRaEAv4OuNh05O3BChdgCEwYBhgL/s320/Nightsky6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HhnI1fOkrJ8/XKrAWRn4z4I/AAAAAAAARiw/855Ku0xAz90J8fNPMz5MrM4eJbGm6gBSgCEwYBhgL/s1600/NightSky_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HhnI1fOkrJ8/XKrAWRn4z4I/AAAAAAAARiw/855Ku0xAz90J8fNPMz5MrM4eJbGm6gBSgCEwYBhgL/s320/NightSky_1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6VuIwq1AoWE/XKrAb_H9p9I/AAAAAAAARis/GOknqL53-zwSdXx12422lx57mr0tdN-wACEwYBhgL/s1600/NightSky_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6VuIwq1AoWE/XKrAb_H9p9I/AAAAAAAARis/GOknqL53-zwSdXx12422lx57mr0tdN-wACEwYBhgL/s320/NightSky_2.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I clicked as many pictures as I could, ate dinner by the fire and called it a day. For city folks like me, this was indeed really special and rare. I spent a long time gazing at the stars and even longer trying to tweak my cell phone to take good night sky pictures.<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 3 Rangthar to Gushaini</h3>
We decided against going to Marahni due to excessive snow as per shepherds in the area. You have to listen to the locals. <br />
Maybe I was also content with the astronomical spectacle yesterday. <br />
<br />
It's okay, I told myself. April is too early to be going at any decent altitude anyway. We had oats for breakfast, I ate an additional breakfast bar. Drank some ORS too.<br />
<br />
We
started descending to Pekhri by 9:45 am. The sun was unbearably hot
today as well. After a continuous descent of an hour and half, we
reached Pekhri. From there, a cab brought us back to Prabhat homestay in
Gushaini.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t4u6UqMF-rE/XKrDnQEutDI/AAAAAAAARi8/z4ypj0_rP5YJ0Et3DZJh_FZY4QfGomXdQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190406_094732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t4u6UqMF-rE/XKrDnQEutDI/AAAAAAAARi8/z4ypj0_rP5YJ0Et3DZJh_FZY4QfGomXdQCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20190406_094732.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wrapped up!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XwU2yesdPaI/XKrDmEFDJuI/AAAAAAAARi4/4HKy4_XqAGgo4VdlGAAHPrkSYHtKYbHIQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190406_100429.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XwU2yesdPaI/XKrDmEFDJuI/AAAAAAAARi4/4HKy4_XqAGgo4VdlGAAHPrkSYHtKYbHIQCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20190406_100429.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lakcha from above</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4kpRh-6fdoE/XKrDqeBfTMI/AAAAAAAARjA/2DhiIYTLfnk8IjJuVJIgXKsanpuMi9smgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190406_100843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4kpRh-6fdoE/XKrDqeBfTMI/AAAAAAAARjA/2DhiIYTLfnk8IjJuVJIgXKsanpuMi9smgCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20190406_100843.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traffic jam in the mountains!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The weather started to deteriorate after I reached Gushaini, good that I chose to descend timely.<br />
<br />
<br />
The previous night was so marvelous, I couldn't stop thinking about it all day.<br />
However,
all that's left now is to go back to routine life, resume the hustle.
It is sad indeed that a star studded sky is an event of rarity for most
city folks, something so basic yet elusive. <br />
It is something I pondered upon while on my journey back to Delhi. <br />
<br />
I also got to take my new trekking boots to test. I still feel I need to break them in properly.<br />
Last but not least, my wanderlust is satisfied to an extent. How long this lasts is something that remains to be seen.<br />
<br />
A subtle end to a subtle trip. </div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-40143127492800769012018-07-29T23:19:00.001-07:002018-07-31T20:57:00.279-07:00An attempt at crossing Charang La <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 0 - Delhi to Rampur</h3>
<div dir="ltr">
I was thinking on my way to the bus station, why bother writing about Day 0? It's always just me traveling within Delhi to reach ISBT. But then, I also realized how much my expectations vary vs reality. <br />
Well, not always, sometimes I'm on top of the future and my predictions are accurate.. but.. where's the fun in that.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I have very little information about Charang La. I know it's a pass in Kinnaur region of HP. I know it starts at somewhere near Reckong Peo and ends at Chitkul. I know the Max altitude is 5200m+ </div>
<div dir="ltr">
That's way less information than I'm used to. I guess I should thank my trek partner for that. He's an experienced campaigner and I trust his judgment. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I spent a lot of time in getting my backpack together today. Finally bought a sleeping bag, the efficacy of which is a question mark at this point. Ditched the stove too, going for dry food, whether it's the right decision remains to be seen. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I'm also feeling unusually calm. I feel like I'm in control of what I'm doing even though I barely know anything about the trek. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Maybe the after effects of turning 30?</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I'm in the bus, food in my bag, mawa cake too. Mawa cake. I just smiled a little. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 1 Rampur to Kalpa</h3>
<div dir="ltr">
I slept a lot. It always defeats me, my ability to sleep in turbulent, bumpy conditions. Born to travel, eh?<br />
Or maybe I just love sleeping.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Woke up when the bus was still in Narkanda. It was nice to see the sun rising in the mountains. I'm sure I'll have more of this in the next few days. I deboarded the bus at Rampur Bushahr. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6jLPSrVsQ-I/W2Em5ToBeKI/AAAAAAAARNk/zX5LR1aHsM04vDyp2EMpBr4uHR8AdzOKwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20180723_091856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6jLPSrVsQ-I/W2Em5ToBeKI/AAAAAAAARNk/zX5LR1aHsM04vDyp2EMpBr4uHR8AdzOKwCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_20180723_091856.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Rampur is a small town, along a river, it is 5 hours away from Shimla. I boarded the bus to Reckong Peo as soon as I reached. This bus was the ordinary one but thankfully this journey is just 3 hours.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
The bus stopped at a place called Jyuri for lunch, I had a light meal keeping in mind the bus travel.<br />
The weather is hotter than I anticipated which reminds me of Panwali. The ride is bumpy too.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
But I'm feeling fine, Reckong Peo is something I had been only reading about until now. When you visit a place, it becomes real in your head. Feels like it does when you level up in a video game.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Prashant is waiting at Kalpa. I should be able to join him for lunch. I could also use a shower and change of clothes. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
No feeling like that of exploring unknown territory.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zSWwSkj_IP0/W2Em6Owsr4I/AAAAAAAAROE/fj2-iqiBL8YHj5-8PNNrfXCiViJ2AOwbgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20180723_103936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zSWwSkj_IP0/W2Em6Owsr4I/AAAAAAAAROE/fj2-iqiBL8YHj5-8PNNrfXCiViJ2AOwbgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20180723_103936.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Halt at Jyuri</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5-jRNSeHslk/W2EpSzAMLfI/AAAAAAAAROM/BGAdGKO9uPoeCm_6BK5pTDBCMYa12-fAwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180723_140353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5-jRNSeHslk/W2EpSzAMLfI/AAAAAAAAROM/BGAdGKO9uPoeCm_6BK5pTDBCMYa12-fAwCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20180723_140353.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reckong Peo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
I met Prashant outside the tourist centre in the main market. Since I was starving, I ate a sumptuous meal at Little chef restaurant. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
For Charang la, one needs to get permission from the SDM. We got that arranged along with medical test, which is mandatory to get permission.<br />
Afterwards, we left for Kalpa in a crowded bus.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
*******<br />
I reached Kalpa at around 5 pm. It's a peaceful village about 40 minutes from Reckong peo if you take the bus. Very peaceful, clean and picturesque. I would recommend people to just live here for a couple of days, chill and go back. It's that kind of place.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I had a nagging headache for which I popped a Disprin. I checked in at Hotel Chini Bungalow, had a nice hot shower, ate some delicious food in the nearby Dhaba. My head still hurts but I know it'll be alright. I'm just exhausted from the road travel. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
There's a guy playing a ukulele outside my room. I'm at peace. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t31ggVKOBE4/W2EqNtOSSVI/AAAAAAAAROU/VErbZqt443oJFqNQhVreg7_hLq-dMPODgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180724_055752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t31ggVKOBE4/W2EqNtOSSVI/AAAAAAAAROU/VErbZqt443oJFqNQhVreg7_hLq-dMPODgCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20180724_055752.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotel Chini Bungalow, Kalpa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 3 Kalpa to Shurting to Kalpa</h3>
<div dir="ltr">
We set off from Kalpa at 7:45 am since the bus to peo never arrived. To catch the bus, we literally sprinted towards Peo bus stand. It took us around half an hour to reach Peo. We were lucky enough to catch the bus.. or so we thought at that time. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Peo to Shurting is a thriller drive. There are some bends where you just hold your breath until the bus passes through. After 5 hours of traveling on perhaps the world's most dangerous road, we reached ITBP camp at Shurting. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xddYHhkhT4w/W2Eqg2WvqbI/AAAAAAAAROg/_Pt72R-UxBY0zXtIWl1mm8OAKx-4epw2wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180724_092427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xddYHhkhT4w/W2Eqg2WvqbI/AAAAAAAAROg/_Pt72R-UxBY0zXtIWl1mm8OAKx-4epw2wCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20180724_092427.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bus halts here for Breakfast; on the way to Shurting</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jViknJMFZQ4/W2EqhcfV_GI/AAAAAAAAROk/wgqNagkbU_o3zAEfMp8tpGJnlSRDlxLSQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180724_104004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jViknJMFZQ4/W2EqhcfV_GI/AAAAAAAAROk/wgqNagkbU_o3zAEfMp8tpGJnlSRDlxLSQCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20180724_104004.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friendly bus conductor!</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
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ITBP camp, Shurting is where trekkers are supposed to show their permits and proceed to Charang village. We had our permits and all.. or so we thought.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The camp incharge told us that the permit isn't complete and stamping isn't done, which meant, a return to Peo. </div>
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Which also meant a days delay in our plans. </div>
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<br /></div>
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We argued, reasoned and even requested but to no avail. With a sad face, we boarded the same bus, back to Peo with the plan to get the permit and try again next day. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Thankfully, the bus took half the time it took from Peo to Shurting and we reached the SDM office in Peo by 4 pm. It turned out, it was a miss at our end, not getting the process completed due to us being in haste. </div>
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<br /></div>
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After finally getting the permit done, we headed back to Kalpa since it's a better place to stay at. The evening was cold, the mood was grim, I was uncertain if I should go on or go back.</div>
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<br /></div>
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After much deliberation, I decided to March forwards. Something doesn't feel right though. It's just a transient feeling, I told myself. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Whatever it be, I'll be headed back to Shurting and I'll finish what I started. If I don't, I'll hate myself for a long time.</div>
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<br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 4 Shurting to campsite near Lalanti pass</h3>
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Now armed with a valid permit, we left for Peo really early, the very first bus. We were on top of things today. Caught the bus in time from Peo to Shurting.</div>
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Traveling on one of the worlds most dangerous road twice in two days, yep, badassery of the highest level. For tourists that is, what is badass for us is simply routine life for the locals of Charang village.</div>
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<br />
We reached Shurting by 1:30, got ourselves registered with the now valid permit.</div>
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<br /></div>
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From Shurting, you can either take the shortcut to Lalanti camp site or take the conventional route via Charang village and climb Lalanti pass, descend into the valley and cross the river to reach Lalanti camp site. </div>
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<br /></div>
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We tried the shortcut, the river was very intimidating and after a point we got stuck since the water flow was heavy from where we needed to cross.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Okay, plan B, Charang village.</div>
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<br />
It's a boring 6 km walk to Charang from Shurting.<br />
We reached Charang in an hour. I wanted to halt at Charang, Prashant wanted to shoot for a campsite before Lalanti pass.</div>
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I was skeptical but okayed the plan because it made sense from a progression point of view.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tranquility of Charan Village</td></tr>
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</div>
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Charang is at 3500m, we climbed around 500m in a couple of hours to finally find a place with water source nearby. All the previous places had irrigation channels but the water was muddy.</div>
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At 6 pm, we called it a day after pitching the tent. It was marginally colder than Charang. I guess some whey protein and had a few almonds and dozed off.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tent Pitched !</td></tr>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
</h2>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 5 Campsite to a place beyond Lalanti and back to Charang</h3>
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I woke up at 6:30 am, realizing I had slept for almost 12 hours straight. Since I didn't eat anything yesterday, I felt low on energy. I still didn't have an appetite but force fed myself with a few biscuits. </div>
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</div>
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We packed up the camp and started towards Lalanti pass at 7:30 am.</div>
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<br />
A moderate gradient leads from the campsite to the pass. We reached the pass in an hour.</div>
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It was clear to me that there's something wrong with my energy levels, I considered going back while I still can. After a discussion with Prashant, decided to push forward.</div>
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<br /></div>
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From Lalanti pass, we headed to Lalanti campsite. We expected to meet shepherds there who can help us with food and directions.</div>
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The trail descends to a moraine like terrain. We descended all the way from 4160m to 3800m. </div>
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Our plan was to reach Lalanti as soon as we can. </div>
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<br /></div>
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By now, I was sure I couldn't go on. My personal idea was to take the shortcut and reach back to Shurting, Prashant can go ahead with the shepherds headed towards Chitkul, I thought.</div>
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<br /></div>
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But alas, fate had different plans.</div>
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We never reached Lalanti. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Prashant did a quick recce and concluded there's no visible trail ahead and we have potentially veered off from the main trail. </div>
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We decided to go back to Charang, since we were, in all fairness, lost and clueless. I felt less guilty about thinking on bailing since in either case, we would've headed back.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Point of return</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
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Now the climb back to Lalanti was steep, there were sections with exposure to valley and some of the trail was just scree. On top of that, I wasn't feeling a 100% energetic. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Having no other option and no Shepherd in site to guide us, we followed the GPS trail for a bit and headed back to Lalanti Pass. </div>
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</div>
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After 3 hours of steep climbing, we reached Lalanti pass and after a couple of hours of steep descent, we finally reached Charang village.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The day was like this, altitude wise : </div>
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4000m to 4160m to 3800m to 4100m </div>
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And then the reverse of it, ultimately ending up at 3500m.</div>
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<br /></div>
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We met a few locals who questioned the logic behind going into an unexplored territory without any local help. Perhaps what we know now is not what we anticipated then.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I have never felt the urge to turn back but this time I always felt off. We did the most sensible thing by turning back. A new experience for me, getting lost and giving up. But if I'm being honest with myself, I would've turned back no matter what. It's just that circumstances made it so that Prashant had to make the final call to turn back.</div>
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<br /></div>
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We checked in at the Govt guest house in Charang, had shower, hot food. <br />
Later came to know that we had actually crossed Lalanti camp site and had gone further ahead, in the wrong direction. </div>
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<br /></div>
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This wasn't an ideal experience but a learning nonetheless.</div>
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1. Always listen to the locals<br />
2. Talk to the locals before going anywhere<br />
3. Don't assume anything, it's a matter of life and death<br />
4. Plan way ahead so that the quality of the plan is impeccable</div>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 6 Visit to Rangrik Monastery</h3>
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<br /></div>
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Since we had time in hand, we decided to give Rangrik Monastery a visit. </div>
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Rangrik Monastery is about 2 kms from Charang, at the same altitude.The trail passes through Charang village and splits at one point, the lower trail going to ITBP campsite at Charang and the other trail leads to the monastery.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The monastery is claimed to be a 1000 years old. Rangrik being the name of the goddess. </div>
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Legend has it that a 1000 years ago, few shepherds noticed some construction going on in the area the monastery is at, when they returned the next day, the Monastery was completely built. </div>
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<b>A few pictures from the Monastery : </b></div>
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Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-89045122446809892652017-11-25T08:40:00.000-08:002017-11-26T20:46:18.013-08:00Har ki dun - Solo trek - Nov 2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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</div>
<u><b>Prelude</b></u><br />
<u><b><br /></b></u>
I had no intention of hiking anywhere in November. I had taken leaves for Saptkund not so long ago and although I always want to be in the mountains but my wanderlust hadn't overcome me. <br />
But..<br />
I got an impromptu week off from work, now I was in the peculiar position of needing to go somewhere. Sitting at home for a week was just not a possibility for me. <br />
To be honest, this trip wasn’t my preference, I had been mulling
over just chilling in McLeod for a week but even that seemed wrong.
I was in the peculiar position of having a random week off. Let's just
say I was stuck between a rock and a hard place. I couldn't stay home
for a week. I just couldn't.<br />
<br />
People in my office would literally kill
for a week off and here I am getting it served on a platter. It was not
only my chance but my responsibility to go, otherwise, I wouldn't be
doing justice to who I am.<br />
Also..<br />
I couldn't resist the urge to explore someplace new. Har ki dun was an automatic selection for a couple of reasons.<br />
A guide is not required and there are homestays on the trail at Osla and even at Har-ki-Dun itself.<br />
<br />
Here's an account of what transpired during the trip :<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 0 - Delhi to Dehradun</h3>
I booked the late 10:45 pm bus in hopes of catching the earliest possible transport for my onward journey to Sankri. The research is very limited but from what I read, Sankri seems to be some sort of trekking hub. It's only befitting that I pay it a visit, might I add that the Violet metro line from Mandi House has made it really convenient and cheap for me to travel to ISBT kashmere gate.<br />
<br />
I made it to the bus stand without any hassles but still full of some sort of skepticism. I'm not sure why but traveling alone feels different now. I think I'm getting a bit rusty. I thought of George Clooney's speech from "Up in the air", the one about "The bag".<br />
It is then that I realized that my last solo trip was all the way back in June.<br />
<br />
I decided to tune out the thoughts with some good music on my brand new ATH m50x headphones. <br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 1 – Dehradun to Taluka</h3>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
I got down from the bus at around 4 am and it was freezing cold. I was struggling to speak since I was shivering so much. My next job was to look for "Hotel Grand" near the railway station (not the one near ISBT, caution: there are many Hotel Grands). I took an e-Auto which costed me 100 Rs and dropped me at OP Grand hotel. I walked to the bus station only to know that the first bus for Sankri leaves at 8 am and takes 10-11 hours.<br />
<br />
I decided to travel with cabs instead. The cabs start from Grand Hotel, which is thankfully not that far from OP Grand Hotel. I found the first cab leaving for Purola and booked my seat in it. Unfortunately, I faced regular bouts of motion sickness throughout the way to Purola.<br />
<br />
I reached Purola at 11:30 AM and after much deliberation on whether to take the bus or the cab for the journey ahead, I decided to stick with the cab option due to the speed factor. I took the cab to Mori since there are no direct cabs to Sankri, you just have to go point to point.<br />
I reached Mori at 3 pm and then hitchhiked in a pick-up truck all the way to Taluka. The ride was very bumpy and I felt like a pop corn would in a pressure cooker. It was some experience though. I had my "Highway" moment I guess. In hindsight, sitting on the backside of a pickup truck is a little over rated, yes there's the adventure factor but after a point you're just dodging the 30 Kg LPG cylinder rolling towards you every now and then.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me @ the back of a pickup truck</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
The weather got noticeably colder after passing Sankri. I reached Taluka by 5 pm and after having some food, checked into GMVN guest house for a dorm bed. I also had dinner from the nearby dhaba. I stocked on some supplies like batteries and a candle. There's a general store but it has limited options.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traditional chulha cooked dinner</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
At the moment of writing this post, it's 6:30, pitch black dark, GMVN looks haunted and there are no people anywhere apart from the ones at the dhaba.<br />
<br />
Imagine being alone in a huge guest house in a remote hilly village which has no electricity, constant noise of dripping water, winds blowing through cracks in the windows making subtle noises. The kind of noise which you can't really attribute to any specific source. We've all seen paranormal activity, right?<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 2 Taluka to Osla</h3>
I slept for 12 hours straight and woke up at 7 am. I guess it was due to the exhaustion from all the bus travel. I had a good heavy breakfast and set off for Osla at 8:30 am. <br />
Just 10 minutes into the trek, I realized I dropped my sunglasses, went back and saw a few Porters, asked them if they saw it. Turns out one of them did and was trying to get away with it!<br />
I literally chased him back to Taluka and took it back. A rare instance of dishonesty in the mountains.<br />
<br />
All this saga costed me half an hour and I restarted walking from Taluka at 9 am. The trail begins from next to the end of the road at Taluka, there’s a board you can’t miss which says "Har ki dun -> "<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Initial Marking </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z5tP3-Z_zVQ/WhmYXkrj-cI/AAAAAAAAMrM/UFOixuoOuno8iSQD_1q3julwxlweTJ8vwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171122_094106.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z5tP3-Z_zVQ/WhmYXkrj-cI/AAAAAAAAMrM/UFOixuoOuno8iSQD_1q3julwxlweTJ8vwCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171122_094106.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful River Shupin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
The initial trail descends and then is mostly a flat walk with occasional gradual ascents. I managed to walk at quite a brisk pace due to the easy terrain. The trail is marked with milestones to Har ki dun every kilometre. I stopped to eat some dates after having walked 5 km without a break. I did bump into porters with their mules every 15-20 minutes or so, so I wasn't entirely alone on the trail. However, there were no hikers besides me.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iG4wPt5esFE/WhmYZiGqYzI/AAAAAAAAMrM/KORM9vIxoRkjXfF2P4aQ73PuSeqBNp_2QCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171122_101916.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iG4wPt5esFE/WhmYZiGqYzI/AAAAAAAAMrM/KORM9vIxoRkjXfF2P4aQ73PuSeqBNp_2QCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171122_101916.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Dates break!</td></tr>
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<br />
The next stop was a place called Gangad. I was hungry and decided to stop here for lunch. The dhaba took quite long to serve food and consequently, I spent 1:15 hrs at Gangad. I didn't mind that since the day's target was almost met and I could afford to take my time.<br />
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0YRNCXkscG8/WhmYbBrmbPI/AAAAAAAAMrM/TBKbfK-uP10vCyfeuPotMJapBi6QsacJgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171122_120620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0YRNCXkscG8/WhmYbBrmbPI/AAAAAAAAMrM/TBKbfK-uP10vCyfeuPotMJapBi6QsacJgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171122_120620.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sound advice @ Gangad hotel, Yes Boss!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Gangad is 9 kms from Taluka and has homestay options, also, Osla is just 4 kms from here. It got noticeably colder after I started walking from Gangad. I think it’s because of the proximity to river Shubin.<br />
After walking for a kilometre, I saw a bridge, on crossing this bridge, you get the diversion for Seema or Osla. If you’re headed to Har ki dun (mentioned as HKD henceforth), Osla is where you need to go. The trail for Osla descends while the trail for Seema climbs up. The trail then descends to the river and there’s another bridge you use to cross to the other side. Might I add, that bridge is VERY dicey and was moving a lot, no railings of course.<br />
<br />
After crossing the bridge, Osla is about a km away, continuous ascent. I reached Osla by 2:30 pm and called it a day.<br />
Osla is a nice remote village, there are a lot of kids who inevitable will bombard you with requests for chocolates or 100 Rupees. There is a small school run by one Mr. Jaibir singh ji. Also known as, "Guru Ji" in the village. He also runs a homestay, the only one in Osla which has city tourist friendly amenities like a western toilet. It was also where I was headed to since I had heard good things about this homestay from the villagers in Taluka.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--2Bb-aawb44/WhmYfWlLgHI/AAAAAAAAMrM/Zzq8dBBezlQQqHn2gw36fzFhFV3eAC6zgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171122_152755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--2Bb-aawb44/WhmYfWlLgHI/AAAAAAAAMrM/Zzq8dBBezlQQqHn2gw36fzFhFV3eAC6zgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171122_152755.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Homestay @ Osla</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--JAPwA0hnUM/WhmYf0rjDjI/AAAAAAAAMrE/IV3df8_l9nM0as0m7WuLNDcFN_Pp9XYPwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171122_152922_Bokeh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--JAPwA0hnUM/WhmYf0rjDjI/AAAAAAAAMrE/IV3df8_l9nM0as0m7WuLNDcFN_Pp9XYPwCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171122_152922_Bokeh.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Naughty kiddos!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 3 Osla to Hkd and back to Osla</h3>
<br />
Today was the extra effort day since I had to travel a total distance of 28 kms. There was one more trekker with the same plan so we decided to tag along, more the merrier!<br />
<br />
I woke up at 7 am and was greeted by nice cold winds blowing in the valley. I had a compact breakfast and chugged in a scoop of whey protein. We started walking at 8 am from Osla. The trail starts from behind Jaibir Singh’s homestay, where we were staying. The initial trail is a gradual descent with River Shupin on your right. After crossing a couple of bridges, the trail starts to climb until the moderately steep ascent leads to a level land. It’s a good place to take a breather and also has good panaromic view of the nearby peaks. <br />
The trail then climbs further to a place called Kalkattiyadhar, which is around 3200m altitude. We spent a few minutes appreciating the views of black peak, white peak and Bandar poonch from there. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nx2lrlBaR9I/WhmYhV8MOhI/AAAAAAAAMrI/gJh0H3DJASUTiZ1URfw80uvfZpWaXqj8QCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171123_084806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nx2lrlBaR9I/WhmYhV8MOhI/AAAAAAAAMrI/gJh0H3DJASUTiZ1URfw80uvfZpWaXqj8QCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171123_084806.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from initial dhaba point on leaving Osla</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T6rxVlb0PJA/WhmYn7YVsgI/AAAAAAAAMr0/mBXjzfPndAEHyrWtKFEYYJfYYHyfmqdXACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171123_093651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T6rxVlb0PJA/WhmYn7YVsgI/AAAAAAAAMr0/mBXjzfPndAEHyrWtKFEYYJfYYHyfmqdXACEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171123_093651.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Majestic views en route</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hFF4QP5v4n8/WhmYmpK_F6I/AAAAAAAAMr0/ORsHGKcD4jwZ_-Ibgpp4-DA319cuC1dGQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171123_093645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hFF4QP5v4n8/WhmYmpK_F6I/AAAAAAAAMr0/ORsHGKcD4jwZ_-Ibgpp4-DA319cuC1dGQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171123_093645.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The trail then follows a gradual descent all the way to a waterfall amidst the tree line. It’s worth noting that there are numerous water sources throughout the trail and I didn’t really feel the need to refill my bottle. From the waterfall, there's a long period of continuous ascent, throughout the journey there are milestones to HKD which really help you pace yourself. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KxBQqVx7Kak/WhmccRwlhUI/AAAAAAAAMsI/mDbhG9okNds7ZJmDxdgnLlKcCOfay4FHQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20171123_100213.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KxBQqVx7Kak/WhmccRwlhUI/AAAAAAAAMsI/mDbhG9okNds7ZJmDxdgnLlKcCOfay4FHQCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20171123_100213.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waterfall after leaving Kalkatiyadhar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wr5E9X66tdw/WhmYq5weEYI/AAAAAAAAMr0/LH0M5Ey_yvIRCLuS0IHiRT9fjx2e2TmUwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171123_100230.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wr5E9X66tdw/WhmYq5weEYI/AAAAAAAAMr0/LH0M5Ey_yvIRCLuS0IHiRT9fjx2e2TmUwCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171123_100230.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waterfall rest point</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
About 3 km away from HKD, I realized there was a lot of snow, so I wisely put on my cool looking polarized wayfarers. Also, eye burn sucks, ain’t nobody got time for that. I also reapplied my sunscreen, hoping to not scare my colleagues for a change when I'm back. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d-_f1bd8I_U/WhmcyMelcWI/AAAAAAAAMsM/eK83pncheIkp1jY7b4D4jvtUAO8F_lV6QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20171122_111514.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d-_f1bd8I_U/WhmcyMelcWI/AAAAAAAAMsM/eK83pncheIkp1jY7b4D4jvtUAO8F_lV6QCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20171122_111514.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunglasses, check; Sunscreen double check.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The ascent started to tire me out but then I thought about Pin Parvati. I am not allowed to feel tired, I told myself and kept walking. Maybe it was the cold but my legs started cramping. I slowed down and readjusted my pace by putting less pressure on the cramped leg.<br />
<br />
We reached HKD at 12 noon, after having taken numerous breaks. The trail was straightforward but there’s always a risk of joining the Ruinsara trail. A few years ago, some guy from Chennai had veered into the trail headed to Ruinsara Tal and could only reach HKD after 3-4 days of being lost. There are also reports of bear attacks, rare but still a possibility.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0CY6xwJlx5E/WhmY2XsZE-I/AAAAAAAAMr0/KhcgJ8-niUQrkbxcL1ESiPWPYs3iyT-FACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171123_115115.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0CY6xwJlx5E/WhmY2XsZE-I/AAAAAAAAMr0/KhcgJ8-niUQrkbxcL1ESiPWPYs3iyT-FACEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171123_115115.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swargarohini peak from Har ki dun</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-07JzoWcGYpQ/WhmYzVeRI2I/AAAAAAAAMr0/LoR65NclFQocApzGY1_lgv4iBL1BufRswCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171123_114649_Bokeh.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-07JzoWcGYpQ/WhmYzVeRI2I/AAAAAAAAMr0/LoR65NclFQocApzGY1_lgv4iBL1BufRswCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171123_114649_Bokeh.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nandi bull watching the valley</td></tr>
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<br />
About 3 kms from HKD, the trail to Ruinsara descends from the trail going straight. One must keep going straight and not entertain any stray trails. Apart from that, finding the trail is child’s play. Take my GPX files if you want, knock yourself out you freeloader.<br />
<br />
The view from HKD was gorgeous. If I had any more time in my hands, I would’ve camped here. One can see Swargarohini, Bandarpoonch and White/black peaks from here. There is a forest rest house and the whole place is just a campsite next to the river. The trail throughout was straight out of a painting. A blue river, snow covered trail all leading to HKD peak, which I was told is not climbable. There is also a shiv temple here. I used my super awesome one plus 5’s camera to take a lot of pictures.<br />
Afterwards, we had a sumptuous lunch consisting of roti with pickle, almonds, dates, swiss cream roll and jaggery candies. I also had a lot of water to fight the cramps.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-quuARM_7sbg/WhmYxrobPuI/AAAAAAAAMr0/o4hChz8MtqgOSAeQEGVbIzbIA6_GBIFWQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171123_114544.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-quuARM_7sbg/WhmYxrobPuI/AAAAAAAAMr0/o4hChz8MtqgOSAeQEGVbIzbIA6_GBIFWQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171123_114544.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shiv temple @ Har ki dun</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We set off from HKD at 1 pm and bid adieu to the grand mountains. A boring regular walk led us back to Osla within 3 hours. We did take around an hour’s break in total, so, people can presumably do it quicker than that if less breaks are taken.<br />
<br />
I’m back to Jaibir Singh’s homestay in Osla, just relaxing after this long day of hiking and also reminiscing about how I almost made a plan to spend a week in Mcleodganj. I guess I’m just not that kind of person who can just “chill”. I need something to stimulate me and a new trail is what serves the purpose.<br />
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 4 Osla to Naugaun</h3>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_2PUIIdWfUo/WhmY49gPABI/AAAAAAAAMr0/9LlB1lozMN0HEJkgakk5nXDV3PYgZptWQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171124_082136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_2PUIIdWfUo/WhmY49gPABI/AAAAAAAAMr0/9LlB1lozMN0HEJkgakk5nXDV3PYgZptWQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171124_082136.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple at Osla</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
At the moment of writing this days account, I'm sitting in a very shady hotel in a remote village/town called Naugaun. <br />
This has been a super active day. The day started early at 7 am, the usual charade, I started moving for Taluka at 8 am with one eye on the watch all the time. The aim was to reach Taluka so early that I also get to reach Dehradun on the same day. Alas, that wasn't to be.<br />
<br />
I sprinted to Taluka but couldn't reach Taluka earlier than 11:15 am. My next best bet was to catch a bus from a place near Sankri to Naugaun and get onward vehicle to Dehradun from there. That bus leaves at 1:30 pm.<br />
I did make it in time for that bus but when I reached Naugaun, there was no further vehicle to Dehradun. I tried asking a lot of drivers but they all had the same response. Eventually, I resigned to my fate and took a hotel right next to where the morning bus to Dehradun leaves from. <br />
<br />
Naugaun is your typical remote hilly town. There are a lot of facilities here if you compare it with Taluka or Sankri which are totally disconnected. By facilities I mean, a chemist, vegetable seller, departmental stores etc. Oh and lets not forget electricity shall we? Being in the city, we seldom acknowledge that most remote villages in India are deprived of a basic 19th century invention (or Discovery?)<br />
I was starving from all the journey and the morning hike. So, I ate like there's no tomorrow. A heavy dinner costed me 60 Rs and I scratched my head thinking about that ridiculous 500 Rs burger that I once ate in Gurgaon. <br />
And now, here I lie in this dirty looking room in Naugaun, a bit too cautious to not miss the 6 am bus tomorrow. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7qymBxhGa0Q/WhmY7QjlR_I/AAAAAAAAMr0/dMuxHZJKgBA16jj9boAqKo1knApooolVQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171124_192528.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7qymBxhGa0Q/WhmY7QjlR_I/AAAAAAAAMr0/dMuxHZJKgBA16jj9boAqKo1knApooolVQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171124_192528.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A night in a shady hotel room</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
For reasons I can't put my finger on, I'm a bit home sick. Ever since I started descending from HKD, I've had this abnormal hunger of reaching back to Delhi. This is exactly what drove me to travel for 8 hours after hiking 14 kms in 3 hours. <br />
Most people stay back in Sankri, take the early bus next day and reach Dehradun by evening. I'll reach Dehradun by 10 am tomorrow, Delhi by 4 pm. Home by 5 pm. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Everything said and done, the trek is over. <br />
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</div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-4122674355814588752017-10-15T06:01:00.003-07:002017-10-15T06:45:47.104-07:00Saptkund trek - October 2017 <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 0 - Delhi to Rishikesh</h3>
I reached home from work around 7 pm. It took me an hour of packing and arranging things, which had me ready by 8.<br />
Unlike previous times, I chose to take the metro. <br />
<br />
<br />
The new shortcut via the Violet line ensured I reached the bus station exactly on time.<br />
Also unlike previous times, I felt calm as opposed to jittery. <br />
Maybe I'm finally at that point where I'm confident enough to know, deep down, "I've got this".<br />
Nevertheless, taking each day on its own merit has served me well in the past. No reason to abandon that strategy. <br />
I'm about to reach Rishikesh and meet the other two people of the group.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 1 Rishikesh to Pairi</h3>
<br />
This was quite a roller coaster of a day. We eventually decided to drive all the way to Pairi. I had a tough time dealing with the twists and turns. Spent all day throwing up every single thing I dared to eat. Around 1 pm, the car tire got slashed by something and got a 1 inch cut. Already tired from the <br />
journey so far, we had to take the hassle of arranging a fix.<br />
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</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K1C5GyjLzNs/WdnKlGrtaHI/AAAAAAAALcI/SbrXpdqvMJI8oTJ6PG6XO33mrcIz7raOACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20170929_120209%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K1C5GyjLzNs/WdnKlGrtaHI/AAAAAAAALcI/SbrXpdqvMJI8oTJ6PG6XO33mrcIz7raOACEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20170929_120209%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For all your cold patch needs, Kukreti puncture repair shop</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
We reached Pairi at around 5:30 but not before we had to deal with some nerve wreaking moments due to the road being in a very bad condition, often having to get down from the vehicle so the under body of the car would be spared a bruise. <br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y-4pOxfOPvE/WdnKjDuUv_I/AAAAAAAALdI/T5DTtxYVwCwuJ6aLSQHlPMtAHzDzOrjJQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20170929_172155_Bokeh%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y-4pOxfOPvE/WdnKjDuUv_I/AAAAAAAALdI/T5DTtxYVwCwuJ6aLSQHlPMtAHzDzOrjJQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20170929_172155_Bokeh%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pairi in the blurred background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
We met our guide Padam Singh there. I went to the only store in the village and arranged for ration and called it a day after a nice warm dinner.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ho1z7Pla1MQ/WdnKj8dZW4I/AAAAAAAALdI/R0H0z0j4lHEwwb6AJlK1zJz5kmhDZWVGgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20170929_191700%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ho1z7Pla1MQ/WdnKj8dZW4I/AAAAAAAALdI/R0H0z0j4lHEwwb6AJlK1zJz5kmhDZWVGgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20170929_191700%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The only ration shop in Pairi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Everyone was so tired that they fell asleep instantly.<br />
</div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 2 Pairi to Tilgudi</h3>
This was the first trek day. We started the day at 8:30 am.<br />
Tilgudi is quite close to Patharkudi, is what the guide told us. Exact distances were hard to know at this point. There was no definitive information on the internet, the ones that were there, were too vague. I had turned on the gps logger on my phone. The thought that this might be the "first" instance of anyone recording GPS logs for this trek was indeed a good feeling.<br />
<br />
The climb from Pairi is a constant climb. It is quite steep and we really had to push ourselves at certain patches. In between, we came across Banihar. It is a beautiful meadow with a nice green panaromic view. We also got cellphone reception here but I decided to keep my phone on flight mode. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-piv6cD76e_8/WdnKnDLnyPI/AAAAAAAALdI/TQ_Pb7QNio0P3c9Ew2cyVfn-Q9MisJ1kQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20170930_094426_Bokeh%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-piv6cD76e_8/WdnKnDLnyPI/AAAAAAAALdI/TQ_Pb7QNio0P3c9Ew2cyVfn-Q9MisJ1kQCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20170930_094426_Bokeh%2B-%2BCopy.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying the forest trail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
We had lunch not too far from Tilgudi at around 1 pm. A further half an hour climb from there brought us to the point where the mule we hired had dropped our gear. Luckily, I was able to log the route we had traversed, especially since there was no trail at certain places. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C54KmIM7bM4/WdnN7pOWecI/AAAAAAAALdo/wmlzQElCC5k6sfjE_5NhyA5HiVSA-DrFQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20170930_135008.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C54KmIM7bM4/WdnN7pOWecI/AAAAAAAALdo/wmlzQElCC5k6sfjE_5NhyA5HiVSA-DrFQCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20170930_135008.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">En route to Tilgudi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Sitting in my tent, churning out these statistics, it turns out, we climbed a total altitude of 1200m at a distance of 8.3 km.<br />
Tilgudi is a nice, green campsite with a view of the onward trail. We even found little lambs there to play with. <br />
I don't feel as tired as I'm used to be. My legs aren't sore. This has been a good day but it's getting quite cold. We've setup the kitchen and dinner's about to be ready, at 5:30 pm. <br />
<br />
The plan for tomorrow is to reach a campsite known as Chhurighat.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 3 Tilgudi to Chhurighat</h3>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I woke up lazily at 6 am. Lazily because I had slept at 9 yesterday. The weather was much clearer and the cold wasn't as troubling as yesterday. Maybe I'm getting used to it now. We all had rice, dal and rajma for breakfast and then set off for Patharkudi and then to Chhurighat.<br />
<br />
The trail starts from across the stream and climbs up quite steeply. After reaching the mountain top, you can see a nice broad trail ahead.<br />
The trail to the mountain top, however, is very narrow and tricky at some stretches. Also, it is very steep. 70 degrees if I had to guess.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6h4iVJM7l3g/WeNVAD-D-FI/AAAAAAAALmg/RpGzd-0revYKHBEgPCOhlfJ3Ub3KAeERwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20171001_100549.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6h4iVJM7l3g/WeNVAD-D-FI/AAAAAAAALmg/RpGzd-0revYKHBEgPCOhlfJ3Ub3KAeERwCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20171001_100549.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful view of the valley; before the boulder section</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The trail climbs up again after crossing the broad trail section. Climbs up all the way to 3900m over a distance of around 6-7 kms from the mountain top.<br />
The climb is again relentlessly steep over Boulder fields. <br />
<br />
It too us 6 hours to reach Chhurighat. It's a small meadow amidst Boulder fields. We pitched our Tents near a small cave and called it a day. The campsite was colder than Tilgudi. Due to cloudy weather, we couldn't get to many views. Had a bonfire, ample food and slept early at 7.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MZLfDC_dDJ8/WeNVT1o6qHI/AAAAAAAALmk/PEUhw7JvOiwhTtFZss5F969oLGVGX1gTACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20171001_174309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MZLfDC_dDJ8/WeNVT1o6qHI/AAAAAAAALmk/PEUhw7JvOiwhTtFZss5F969oLGVGX1gTACLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20171001_174309.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camped at Chhurighat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 4 Chhurighat to Saptkund and back</h3>
<br />
We started our day early at 7 am today. Just had a bit of maggi and tea. It's all I could stomach. It was quite cold in the morning so I decided to keep my down jacket on. We found sleet all over the tent in the morning. The ground had a white coating of sleet on it as well which is an indicator of sub-zero temperatures. Quite unexpected but not a deal breaker. <br />
<br />
It took half an hour's climb to reach Simbe Bugyal from Chhurighat.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rFFed_lT07w/WeNWNY8wZlI/AAAAAAAALmw/QtxUtmqDJO0_f93A5cp24pINhDTqQJC9QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20171002_072856.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rFFed_lT07w/WeNWNY8wZlI/AAAAAAAALmw/QtxUtmqDJO0_f93A5cp24pINhDTqQJC9QCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20171002_072856.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simbe Bugyal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cfmE2yORmXg/WeNWOBh7zHI/AAAAAAAALm0/vL9EZb3J64IEq4Y6B1G63Bge2-O3aw4lgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20171002_072905.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cfmE2yORmXg/WeNWOBh7zHI/AAAAAAAALm0/vL9EZb3J64IEq4Y6B1G63Bge2-O3aw4lgCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20171002_072905.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple before the final steep ascent</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We crossed a field of boulders from there and after a gradual ascent and a steep climb, we were right below the topmost point of saptkund.The lakes are below, much like Roopkund but way better.<br />
<br />
<br />
The climb knocked the wind out of our sails. It was steep, there was very little to put your foot on, the rocks were slippery and we literally went from 4200 to 4700m in the span of not even a kilometre.<br />
<br />
That's not all. After reaching what seemed to be the top, we had to climb further to finally reach the place from where we could view all the lakes.<br />
<br />
I slipped at a critical place, there was valley exposure but the guide grabbed my hand and pulled me up. I shrugged it off like the cool dude I am and kept climbing. We reached "Saptkund top" at 11 am. The views were mesmerizing. Everyone kept waiting for the grand views of Nandaghunti and Trishul. They were awesome indeed. <br />
<br />
We spent a lot of time at the top and then explored all the lakes, there's a nice pavement built around all the lakes.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j2sXtRDimvY/WeNW-f43pmI/AAAAAAAALnA/ochlWD2YHTcf5KYFIglmtY0j8ImMDirbwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20171002_112326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j2sXtRDimvY/WeNW-f43pmI/AAAAAAAALnA/ochlWD2YHTcf5KYFIglmtY0j8ImMDirbwCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20171002_112326.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The group at Saptkund top; 4650m. Porter, Tanvi, Saumitra, Me and Prashant (L-R)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We started descending around 2 pm, keeping in mind that there is always a possibility of weather getting deteriorated. We decided to take a different route this time, which was obvious because it would've been simply too risky to descend down the same route from where we approached the top of Saptkund. When we reached, it had started hailing but it was quite brief. I was worried because I realized I left my poncho back at the camp. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fpChN4QIs_A/WeNW88EXk7I/AAAAAAAALnU/CkE632KbHz8LX3a-QK4lmjA-PxOXPxsLgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171002_115257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fpChN4QIs_A/WeNW88EXk7I/AAAAAAAALnU/CkE632KbHz8LX3a-QK4lmjA-PxOXPxsLgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171002_115257.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nandaghunti peeking from between the clouds</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SwnN-QycFHc/WeNW-ztNhNI/AAAAAAAALnU/5CeURB7FJJsGYWxhGdjHLq011bLpOfhzgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171002_125712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="902" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SwnN-QycFHc/WeNW-ztNhNI/AAAAAAAALnU/5CeURB7FJJsGYWxhGdjHLq011bLpOfhzgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171002_125712.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nandaghunti @ 2x Zoom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--umakH_gMHg/WeNXAlsBo9I/AAAAAAAALnU/eX_rXZ6k6y84v1_HRlYz_lu3wqcZ0t7fgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20171002_132459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--umakH_gMHg/WeNXAlsBo9I/AAAAAAAALnU/eX_rXZ6k6y84v1_HRlYz_lu3wqcZ0t7fgCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20171002_132459.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saptkund lake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
We followed the route going to Jhijhi village and then took a detour to reach the temple at Simbe Bugyal. The trail was about 3 km of gradual descent followed by an extremely sharp descent.<br />
We lost quite a lot of altitude rapidly.<br />
<br />
I was running on fumes since there was no packed lunch. The glucose biscuits didn't cut it. We reached Chhurighat by 515 pm. Very tired, a little bit shaken. <br />
<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 5 Chhurighat to Pairi</h3>
<br />
We started the day at 8 am. Crossed the boulder filled patch to reach Patharkudi. The views were good today since the weather was clear, we could spot Nandaghunti peak for a big chunk of the day. We could even spot Trishul.<br />
<br />
From Chhurighat, chaukhamba was bright and clear.<br />
<br />
<br />
Today's hike back to Pairi was about, firstly crossing the moraines and then taking the spider wall section back Tilgudi.We crossed the moraines fairly quickly. There was sleet on the rocks but it went away after a few hours of bright sun. But until then, it made life miserable for all of us as we were not sure which rock would grip and which wouldn't.<br />
<br />
After we reached Patharkudi, we decided to take a different route back, the one via Patta peak (bypassing Tilgudi and the spider wall section) and then back to the tree line. Surprisingly, the route for patta peak was much more serene than the one we had taken initially, while on our way to Chhurighat.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-idKCCQZqo2Y/WeNaUaP794I/AAAAAAAALng/pJT0Qba7Cy88q85VFHNF1WfkSniVi9rcgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20171003_082511.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-idKCCQZqo2Y/WeNaUaP794I/AAAAAAAALng/pJT0Qba7Cy88q85VFHNF1WfkSniVi9rcgCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20171003_082511.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Patta Top"; take this route to bypass tilgudi and directly reach the tree line</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The route from Patta top to the tree line was a steady steep descent which had me grasping my knees every once in a while.<br />
We reached the tree line by 1 pm. After an hour's walk we reached Banihar. Took a good 20 minutes rest there and moved on towards Pairi. After continuous steep descent, we reached Pairi at 2:35 PM.<br />
I was running on fumes for the good second half of the day but the trek was over.<br />
<br />
This trek gave me a few hard realizations.<br />
The primary takeaway was to make sensible food choices when going for a serious trek. We carried MTRs and Pasta which were colossal waste of space. Very little nutrition when compared to their weight.<br />
<br />
On another note, renewed respect for the mountains of Uttarakhand. They make you sweat the most, reaching even the base village was a task comparable to the efforts of the trek itself BUT the grandeur is amazing. When Nandaghunti revealed itself from the clouds, I wasn't even sure how high to look, such was its grandeur. Ditto for Trishul. To have witnessed that view up, close and personal was a privilege that I would never forget.<br />
<br />
Now, for all the statistic nerds out there, below is the elevation profile from Day 1 to Day 4. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M495Oh8D7aA/WeNhKQvg3cI/AAAAAAAALn8/IBpMRw0Oxxcs0Y4NtbTl10GUpU7lAI-cgCLcBGAs/s1600/Day%2B1%2BPairi%2Bto%2BTilgudi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="551" data-original-width="921" height="191" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M495Oh8D7aA/WeNhKQvg3cI/AAAAAAAALn8/IBpMRw0Oxxcs0Y4NtbTl10GUpU7lAI-cgCLcBGAs/s320/Day%2B1%2BPairi%2Bto%2BTilgudi.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pairi to Tilgudi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-efHHVxofoJc/WeNhKa4hbjI/AAAAAAAALn0/H8VNHXLHU3A-avrCQPBLONd8kCvdPz_nwCLcBGAs/s1600/Day%2B2%2BTilgudi%2Bto%2BChhurighat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="534" data-original-width="922" height="185" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-efHHVxofoJc/WeNhKa4hbjI/AAAAAAAALn0/H8VNHXLHU3A-avrCQPBLONd8kCvdPz_nwCLcBGAs/s320/Day%2B2%2BTilgudi%2Bto%2BChhurighat.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tilgudi to Chhurighat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JDSZhfgwZ44/WeNhMJ2l4FI/AAAAAAAALoA/idipBBQ8QlkRyoaNR9RpKL2GvbWm8V2ggCLcBGAs/s1600/Day%2B3%2BChhurighat%2Bto%2BSaptkund%2BTop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="544" data-original-width="922" height="188" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JDSZhfgwZ44/WeNhMJ2l4FI/AAAAAAAALoA/idipBBQ8QlkRyoaNR9RpKL2GvbWm8V2ggCLcBGAs/s320/Day%2B3%2BChhurighat%2Bto%2BSaptkund%2BTop.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chhurighat to Saptkund Top</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kVwYUcLYU8k/WeNhLkN9BSI/AAAAAAAALn4/b8IcnXf86fM2CjP96GLrz-XRCZ2na8AZwCLcBGAs/s1600/Day%2B3%2BSaptkund%2BLake%2Bto%2BChhurighat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="927" height="193" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kVwYUcLYU8k/WeNhLkN9BSI/AAAAAAAALn4/b8IcnXf86fM2CjP96GLrz-XRCZ2na8AZwCLcBGAs/s320/Day%2B3%2BSaptkund%2BLake%2Bto%2BChhurighat.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saptkund Lake to Chhurighat</td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oDKD1DoPIfc/WeNhMp2TtKI/AAAAAAAALoE/0I-4cP8YGp01bAGh_813ok7FheLHlEr9ACLcBGAs/s1600/Day%2B4%2BChhurighat%2Bto%2BPairi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="553" data-original-width="927" height="190" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oDKD1DoPIfc/WeNhMp2TtKI/AAAAAAAALoE/0I-4cP8YGp01bAGh_813ok7FheLHlEr9ACLcBGAs/s320/Day%2B4%2BChhurighat%2Bto%2BPairi.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chhurighat to Pairi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<u><b> GPX Files : </b></u><br />
<br />
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4rU-QTLQoYTZXVPTlNvcEhiLTg</div>
</div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-74415484087280635692017-06-26T21:53:00.000-07:002017-06-28T00:02:17.991-07:00Pin Parvati Pass trek<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
<b><u>Prelude</u></b></h2>
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I had been itching to do a "big trek" for a while. The last time I had trekked was in December i.e. Pangarchulla peak, while it was a good experience, it certainly didn't leave the imprint on my mind like some other treks I've done (Markha, Roopkund etc).</div>
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And so I decided to hike to Saptkund along with a couple of friends.</div>
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But, that was also not in my destiny (of which I'm the master of, ofcourse, pfffbt!).</div>
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Both the gentlemen bailed on me, leaving me to ponder if I really want to do Saptkund. </div>
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Quite often, I entertain random hunches. Pin Parvati was a random hunch. I had heard so much about the place, that too from a credible source, that I wanted to "test my luck". I say that because I wasn't entirely sure if it would be in my capacity to do a trek of a difficulty grade as high as Pin Parvati's. </div>
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Here's a day by day itinerary of what transpired on the entire trip (all accounts written at the end of each day) : </div>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Day 0 - Delhi to Manali </h2>
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I left from Delhi, unsure what I'm walking into. All too familiar apprehensions. Going solo is always a bit harder. You are defying what people call "normal" and there's a certain social pressure on you. </div>
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I had the mental blueprint of the journey in my head. A long road trip, followed by a long trip, followed by another long road trip. I decided to not get anxious of how things will go but to experience each day on its own merit.</div>
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I had to catch the 6 pm bus from ISBT kashmere gate and I
made it well in time. </div>
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The long, arduous journey had begun. </div>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Day 1 - Unplanned Leisure day in Manali</h2>
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I woke up while the bus was still in Kullu. </div>
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I reached Manali at 7 in the morning. What I didn't know
was that all the buses/cabs for the onward journey to Kaza leave by 5 am.<br />
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Bus timing for Kaza from Manali - 4 am (the same bus starts from Kullu at 3 am)<br />
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I did all the inquiry I could and came to know that Hotel Kiran in Manali is the hub for cabs going to Lahaul/Spiti, but even they all leave early morning.<br />
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I booked a bus ticket for tomorrow
morning at 4 am and decided to stay back in Manali at Zostel, which is cheap shared accommodation, dormitory style and ideal for backpackers like me. </div>
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Zostel is located in Old Manali near Manu temple. One can
take an auto from Manali bus stand or just walk for half an hour. It is quite isolated from the usual hustle bustle of Manali's roads. </div>
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I spent most of the day sleeping in the common room of Zostel. Rest
of the day was spent hunting for supplies for the trek. Batteries, lip
balm, dry fruits etc</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Eh4zW-fix1s/WVKXK5idhdI/AAAAAAAAFxo/PVYIEd1A_wMTC3trh5moj7ydxs9QQ9TcQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20170617_083634_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Eh4zW-fix1s/WVKXK5idhdI/AAAAAAAAFxo/PVYIEd1A_wMTC3trh5moj7ydxs9QQ9TcQCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20170617_083634_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zostel Manali, Common room</td></tr>
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With a huge sigh, considering the long road trip to Spiti tomorrow, called it a day right after dinner.</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Day 2 Manali to Kaza</h2>
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I woke up at 2:45 am, got ready in a hurry, walked a couple of kilometers
from Zostel to the Manali bus stand. Passing through dark
roads flanked by forests on both sides was a bit unsettling. I have this irrational fear of some animal snatching me back to the woods. :-/</div>
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The bus for Kaza arrived at 5 am. The wise thing I had
done the day before, was, that I had booked a ticket. Booking a ticket
equals a guaranteed seat, otherwise if the bus is full, you might end up
standing all the way.<br />
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The journey was really long, about 13 hours.<br />
Imagine traveling 14 hours from Delhi to Manali and then traveling 13 hours more the very next day on a non-reclining seat.<br />
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My body was tired of sitting.</div>
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The journey was quite a mixed bag.
Initially, I got stuck into lots of traffic, this was prior to crossing
Rohtang pass (13078 ft, super touristy place, apparent because people get to see "snow" there) but after that it was just a bumpy ride almost
all the way to Kaza. The roads are in a very bad condition and it is quite common to find broken down cars/bikes.<br />
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The scenery, however, was stuff sweet dreams are made of. The terrain transcended
from thick green forest cover to a barren, rocky landscape. I was tired
but never did I get bored. </div>
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It is now that I realize why people covet and cherish a trip to Spiti valley so much. <br />
It was quite unlike anything I've ever seen.</div>
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We also cross Kunzum la (15500 ft) en route. It has a
monastery and the spot is quite picturesque. I clicked a few pictures.<br />
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I think that's what the bus stops there for, touristy endeavours.<br />
After walking a few paces, I started breathing heavily, reminding me of the altitude. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The awesome Kunzum La</td></tr>
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I reached Kaza at around 5 pm. The bus diverts from the road going to Reckong Peo and descends towards the road going to Chhatru. You also pass through various places like Batal (which is the starting point for Chandratal lake trek), Lohsar (where all the foreign nationals are checked for their documents) and then finally Kaza itself.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First rest point after Rohtang, Chhatru</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G1s1BLGnOGo/WVKXsJnq9nI/AAAAAAAAFyI/XHWB7d7fnmQB7cOCqMNPdbYt6gIrKCYpwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20170618_121402_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G1s1BLGnOGo/WVKXsJnq9nI/AAAAAAAAFyI/XHWB7d7fnmQB7cOCqMNPdbYt6gIrKCYpwCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20170618_121402_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Batal, Trek to Chandratal lake starts from here</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lohsar</td></tr>
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I checked in at Zostel and went out to buy spare socks.</div>
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So far, I haven't met anyone who's doing Pin Parvati. I wouldn't be surprised if I'm the only one doing it. This is usually an indicator of not being the correct season.<br />
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The plan for tomorrow is to reach Mudh early and take a
call from there. If I get something early morning, a cab probably, I'll
start trekking tomorrow itself.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9bgiKliYXcw/WVKZeIYvNWI/AAAAAAAAFyc/2pSB9zzQg-Ef805wY3nUgGUzIMdoo-YcQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20170618_184453_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9bgiKliYXcw/WVKZeIYvNWI/AAAAAAAAFyc/2pSB9zzQg-Ef805wY3nUgGUzIMdoo-YcQCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20170618_184453_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zostel Spiti, Common room</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0GQKGOIRI7U/WVKZdcmPbmI/AAAAAAAAFyY/ja6akgUMrJkmheKK6MglfvNlTSkzc27UQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20170619_062254_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0GQKGOIRI7U/WVKZdcmPbmI/AAAAAAAAFyY/ja6akgUMrJkmheKK6MglfvNlTSkzc27UQCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20170619_062254_HDR.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I don't agree with point # 6</td></tr>
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<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Day 3 Kaza to Mudh</h2>
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I woke up late at 5:30 am, had a cup of tea at zostel, packed my bags and left to board the bus going to Peo.</div>
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The plan was to get down at a place called Atharva pul
which is the point which demarcates the split between the road going to Keylong and the one going to Pin valley (Gulling, Sagnam and lastly Mudh).</div>
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At Atharva pul, as per the plan, I had to hitch hike all
the way to Sagnam. There were only 3 people there, including me. A man
and a lady, both waiting for an onward lift. I had an interesting
conversation with the lady, telling me how men mistreat women where
she's from and how they're all mama's boys. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting for a lift @ Atharva pul</td></tr>
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When the first car stopped, the lady got a seat and I was then left with no option but to continue my wait. Hitch hiking, every adventure story needs at least one
hitch hike, I said to myself. </div>
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And with that thought, a car stopped and gave me a lift.<br />
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It took around an hour to reach Sagnam. I offered the
driver of the car money but he politely refused, apparently, they accept
the currency of handshakes!</div>
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<br /></div>
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The next task was to find my guide's home. I asked people
around and after searching for 15 minutes, found my guide Rajesh peeking out of the window of his house.</div>
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"You're late" he said. A fact I was very well aware of. He offered me tea and biscuits, which I </div>
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promptly devoured. I hadn't eaten during the bus journey out of the fear of motion sickness.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ap_rxo0Gw1w/WVKX6VyeF6I/AAAAAAAAFyI/r_0UTzdki-0iMOdKUlTReHhIFZfbndtTwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20170619_123232_HDR.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ap_rxo0Gw1w/WVKX6VyeF6I/AAAAAAAAFyI/r_0UTzdki-0iMOdKUlTReHhIFZfbndtTwCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_20170619_123232_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Packed bag at Rajesh's house</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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We decided to not start hiking today and just reach Mudh by evening. <br />
We also split the load between us. He would be carrying the stove, oil, kerosene and sugar.<br />
I'm carrying tea, milk powder, protein powder, onion, garlic, dry fruits, dal, oats and the tent.</div>
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I tried putting the bag on and it felt fine. It's amazing what proper strap adjustment can do.</div>
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<br />
For the altitude, I persisted with my decision of not taking Diamox, although, I'm carrying it.</div>
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The bus to Mudh arrived at 5:40 PM and I reached Mudh in 40 minutes.</div>
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Mudh is the last village accessible by road.</div>
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The road trip has finally ended and I'm now facing my true test.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zk2uOc_4xok/WVKaJITZyNI/AAAAAAAAFyk/Qs4yOcxOlRwOCQ5Y-72-YHqGbXsqqVV_QCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSCF4907.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zk2uOc_4xok/WVKaJITZyNI/AAAAAAAAFyk/Qs4yOcxOlRwOCQ5Y-72-YHqGbXsqqVV_QCEwYBhgL/s320/DSCF4907.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful Mudh</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zqVPZiXf8Kk/WVHa_1td54I/AAAAAAAAFwE/MTLQvR7F4oErrPH2QOeEnDtWofNRU-_8QCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF4901.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zqVPZiXf8Kk/WVHa_1td54I/AAAAAAAAFwE/MTLQvR7F4oErrPH2QOeEnDtWofNRU-_8QCLcBGAs/s320/DSCF4901.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mudh Bus Stop</td></tr>
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I would admit that this road trip has been so self
satisfying. I've met so many people "who get it". Who get why some
people travel under such amazing duress. It felt like I'm with my tribe. </div>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
But now I'm on my own, well, almost, if you discount Rajesh's existence.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I met a trekker who had just descended from the pass and he
was in pretty bad shape. A bad case of snow blindness. He also told me
about the heavy snow conditions at the pass and how there's a free fall
if one slips from the other side of the pass. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I'm slightly bothered but then.. Never have met someone who
has completed the trek and said " Meh, it's tricky but not that
difficult". People ALWAYS glorify their achievement.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
I know it's going to be tough, I didn't come all this way expecting a walk in the park.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
It has been a lazy day and I feel it could actually help me with acclimatization and recovery from fatigue.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Tomorrow.. Mudh to Base camp 1 </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Impossible? I don't know<br />
Difficult? Definitely<br />
<br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Day 4 Mudh to the camp across the river ahead of Base Camp 1</h2>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I knew today was going to be hard but I had no idea, this hard.<br />
I woke up today at 5, got ready by 6 and started hiking by 6:30. All according to the plan.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
The trail starts with a mild ascent from Mudh and then
there's a long spell of level walk. Around 12 km long. In between there
was a snow patch with valley exposure.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I slipped, my guide fell, I grabbed his hand, he got up, helped me get up. Phew!</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
But this was nothing compared to what I faced today. Let me
tell you, this has been the most tiring day of my existence. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
It was me against the mountains and I took the beating of a lifetime.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
So, after the snow patch, there was considerable ascent. My
legs were tired from the 20+ km they had already walked and the
backpack, which I assume was at least 16 Kg was digging a hole in my
shoulders, or so it felt.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p5sCWhzqUF4/WVKddCO3mVI/AAAAAAAAFzk/pZcjFV-eGcYsUk1pqNDw0xVxaqSkhBPXwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF4924.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p5sCWhzqUF4/WVKddCO3mVI/AAAAAAAAFzk/pZcjFV-eGcYsUk1pqNDw0xVxaqSkhBPXwCLcBGAs/s320/DSCF4924.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day 1 Trail to Base Camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
There were also various river crossings. No you don't get
to jump Boulder to Boulder. Take off your shoes, fold your trousers, dip
your feet in icy cold, fast current river. And then, you yell. You feel
the nerves screaming in pain. You feel pins and needles. No, you can't
rush it. Slow, slow punishment. You can yell your choice of curse words.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
But I'm not complaining about the ascent. Next came the
long walks on boulders and then long stretches of spider walls. One
mistake and you're in eternal Union with Pin river. Now, when you're
tired, you want to walk slow. That's a luxury spider walls don't provide
you with. Move fast or slip.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
By the end of it, not only were my legs spent but I was severely exhausted. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I reached base camp by 4:50 pm. 10 hours of hell in heaven. But no, that wasn't all.<br />
There was no water source at the base camp, so I had to walk another
hour, cross yet another stream and then I reached the campsite. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
There was just one more tent besides ours. Clearly, this trek is unpopular. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I pitched the tent, me and Rajesh made tea, oats with almonds and raisins and lots of sugar.<br />
I filled my glass from the nearby stream and had a protein shake. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
It's 8 pm and I'm off to sleep. Tomorrow, I cross the pass and endure a day as difficult as today. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I have walked around 30 kms today. Climbed at least, 800m
altitude. Crossed ice cold rivers, traversed on extended spider walls,
snow slopes. Walked on boulders. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
All this suffering and I still have a grin on my face.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
The plan for tomorrow is to reach Mantalai lake.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Day 5 Base camp to 100m below Pin Parvati pass</h2>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
This has been an unfortunate day.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Started climbing from base camp @7 am.<br />
The climb was steep and relentless with a lot of boulder negotiations. Also, the altitude made it really hard. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
After climbing for 5 hours, reached the glacier but then due to a total whiteout, couldn't see anything.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
The weather screwed me.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
With nowhere to go, we decided to camp where we were, having no idea what place that is.<br />
We camped at a place which is 5200m altitude with no idea if we were walking in the right direction.<br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
We were lost.<br />
<br />
It's a pity that I couldn't make any progress after 12 pm. The initial aim to reach Mantalai was definitely out of the window. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I also didn't have much dry food, no water. I was at a very high camp so I didn't know if AMS will hit me later on when I sleep. Before this, the highest I've slept at is 4900m (at Nimaling) and that was a horrible night. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Neither did I have clothes for this kind of cold since this was unplanned. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
I'm royally screwed.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
The mood is very grim. It feels like a herculean task to just survive.<br />
I am sufficiently scared. There are a lot of apprehensions on how or if my body will be able to endure these circumstances. I have to stay strong to overcome this.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6clXgBMYOvQ/WVKd-jsOInI/AAAAAAAAFzs/mhd1BFbP5qQKkTw1VqS1EAKKGeicUTmfwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF4930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6clXgBMYOvQ/WVKd-jsOInI/AAAAAAAAFzs/mhd1BFbP5qQKkTw1VqS1EAKKGeicUTmfwCLcBGAs/s320/DSCF4930.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a total WHITEOUT!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
</div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Day 6 - "Advanced" base camp to Mantalai</h2>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
I survived the night, it was cold but I've faced cold
before (Chadar). The snow stopped but there were violent winds later in
the night.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Today, I woke up with the best view I've ever come across. All the fog gone, no wind, bright and sunny. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Turns out, we were literally half a km away from the pass!</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
For the water situation, It occurred to me that melting snow would be a good idea, Rajesh agreed. Since the weather wasn't turbulent, it was possible to take the stove out.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DHqilGZ7W1M/WVKafaWJoXI/AAAAAAAAFzU/0SXSqnSt9-4D9Bk45smsA6IC4oWgSPHpACEwYBhgL/s1600/DSCF4933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DHqilGZ7W1M/WVKafaWJoXI/AAAAAAAAFzU/0SXSqnSt9-4D9Bk45smsA6IC4oWgSPHpACEwYBhgL/s320/DSCF4933.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Rajesh's recce early morning</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KcTZj4rWy4U/WVKag_XDElI/AAAAAAAAFzU/H7GMiagPH_897exzu6CKFYFWsBMcjyCwACEwYBhgL/s1600/DSCF4943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KcTZj4rWy4U/WVKag_XDElI/AAAAAAAAFzU/H7GMiagPH_897exzu6CKFYFWsBMcjyCwACEwYBhgL/s320/DSCF4943.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A breakfast in snow, pure bliss</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<u><b>
</b></u>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<u><b>Today's breakfast :</b></u></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Melted snow water tea<br />
Melted snow water Maggi</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
We set off for the pass at 7:10 am. The distance was just half a km but the altitude gain was 100m+.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I really struggled to get to Pin Parvati and had to resort to the 15 steps, 15 breaths rule.<br />
The cold air irritated my throat a lot and I had to take long pauses just to catch my breath again.<br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Finally, after giving it my all, I made it. Now, your
happiness, while it's there, is cut short when you have a look at the
path ahead.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2QOKDFjX8ic/WVKagX9Ye3I/AAAAAAAAFzU/7cNOFD6dYnMRlFDoQR9ppUu1AtxOqevAwCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSCF4949.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2QOKDFjX8ic/WVKagX9Ye3I/AAAAAAAAFzU/7cNOFD6dYnMRlFDoQR9ppUu1AtxOqevAwCEwYBhgL/s320/DSCF4949.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way to the pass</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iiiCv8CwhtM/WVKakXkgC9I/AAAAAAAAFzg/CrFIpm7YoHo5NgE3AY2stvPqW4feHh7yQCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSCF4959.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iiiCv8CwhtM/WVKakXkgC9I/AAAAAAAAFzg/CrFIpm7YoHo5NgE3AY2stvPqW4feHh7yQCEwYBhgL/s320/DSCF4959.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Pin Parvati Pass!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I checked my GPS which showed an elevation of 5312m
which is close to Kongmaru La's 5270m that I've done before but this
has been way tougher and has literally taken my all.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
The view from the pass however is breathtaking. So, is the
altitude, breathtaking, it takes away your breath, literally.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
After a brief halt and a lot of clicks, we descended towards the base camp on
the other side. Since there was a lot of snow, thanks to yesterday, we
had to walk on fresh powdered snow. It was a feet deep at some places near
the pass and half a feet elsewhere.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GB-ZTupmL3k/WVKakrgQkTI/AAAAAAAAFzU/5rWiGT4EXdAVUfPAmDo6VQSo14FMQ5RmgCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSCF4966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="409" data-original-width="1600" height="81" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GB-ZTupmL3k/WVKakrgQkTI/AAAAAAAAFzU/5rWiGT4EXdAVUfPAmDo6VQSo14FMQ5RmgCEwYBhgL/s320/DSCF4966.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pin valley from the pass</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5qEgvbUKCEs/WVKak_AkT2I/AAAAAAAAFzU/Tpb07LgSfl88mJgkYJqYvlO1M2GXC-q1QCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSCF4967.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="410" data-original-width="1600" height="81" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5qEgvbUKCEs/WVKak_AkT2I/AAAAAAAAFzU/Tpb07LgSfl88mJgkYJqYvlO1M2GXC-q1QCEwYBhgL/s320/DSCF4967.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parvati valley from the pass, the way ahead</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
The more the snow, the quicker it tires you. Imagine hauling a huge chunk of snow every time you take a step.The snow receded till the base camp and I thought the worst is behind me.<br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Oh, how idiotically wrong I was.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Now I'm not the one to glorify but I shit you not, reaching
Mantalai lake, alive, from Base camp 2 sits on top of my achievement
list. <b>Ever</b>.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
First, you have to cross a river which I didn't have to
since there was a thick layer of snow on it. Then, there are those tiny
ledges with full valley exposure. I assume, at least 3-4
broken bones if you do fall. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
And I was fine with that, walking on ledges is how I
started trekking in the Sahyadris. It is not the same difficulty but you do
learn how to maneuver yourself at tricky patches.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z0bpDa5iYvw/WVKfaMYdcAI/AAAAAAAAFz4/QAK6OG7xRjUYwAGD6ahnMW9HB66s1KRRgCLcBGAs/s1600/PANO_20170622_121440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="658" data-original-width="1600" height="131" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z0bpDa5iYvw/WVKfaMYdcAI/AAAAAAAAFz4/QAK6OG7xRjUYwAGD6ahnMW9HB66s1KRRgCLcBGAs/s320/PANO_20170622_121440.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mantalai lake panorama</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UtXnddTbMF8/WVKanwxG0OI/AAAAAAAAFzU/G-ls6ubSwMsnrjltPFBt23hKc5gA8haGgCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSCF4980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UtXnddTbMF8/WVKanwxG0OI/AAAAAAAAFzU/G-ls6ubSwMsnrjltPFBt23hKc5gA8haGgCEwYBhgL/s320/DSCF4980.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Go (wash your) sock yourself @ Mantalai Lake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Then.. There was this huge rock patch. At
least 60 feet drop, 80 degrees steep descent and to top it all there was
slush, water and scree. "Wasn't this a non technical trek?" I said to
myself. There was a bloody bandage there too, I mean, a bandage with blood on it. Not what you want to see on a trail you're about to cross. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I saw the steepness from the start of the patch and I asked
my guide "Yahin se jaana hai", in the voice of a 9 year old girl who has
been confronted by a vicious monster. I did ask him again, after
clearing my throat (being alpha is important even if it might be the
last time).</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
And then we started the descend. My mind stopped working
and I merely followed my guide's instructions. My legs were too tired
from all the glacier walk and were not obeying my commands. Also, you
think you can hold your weight with 18kgs strapped to your back? Maybe
you can, I couldn't. I wasn't even able to be at one place to take a
breather.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<i>Move or die.</i></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
After a long while of negotiating with that rock and snow patch, I made it to the normal descend patch, only with a bloody knee due to a minor scrape.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Due to the psychological impact of what I had just gone
through, my legs were shaking even at the simplest of patches. I was
being too careful and it was making life miserable for me.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I did however make it to Mantalai lake at around 2 pm, after
7 hours of walking, legs were still shaking. We decided to camp near a
nice place besides the a small glacial stream.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
The view however was spectacular. Long plains interspersed with tiny streams of fresh water.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I pitched the tent, Rajesh prepared the "kitchen". I told
him how thankful I was for his assistance in helping me cross that
dreadful rock patch. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
We decided to not go for Odi Thach, since we were both really hungry and my legs were exhausted.<br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OYPk6Hg8EI4/WVKgeFF1hyI/AAAAAAAAF0A/yxqGHpW1diMho237RNGqpYw3En9CI3olgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF4993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OYPk6Hg8EI4/WVKgeFF1hyI/AAAAAAAAF0A/yxqGHpW1diMho237RNGqpYw3En9CI3olgCLcBGAs/s320/DSCF4993.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Campsite at Mantalai Lake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span id="goog_2028673156"></span><span id="goog_2028673157"></span><br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
Tomorrow, we aim for Pandu Pul, I don't even know how far
that is but what I've been told, it's also a very tricky terrain to
cross. <br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
This trek, there isn't any respite, is there?<br />
I'm gonna eat and take lots of rest.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<i>I guess I'll die another day, it's not my time to go. - Madonna</i></div>
<i>
</i>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Day 7 - Mantalai to Pandu pul campsite</h2>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
So, yesterday, I slept at 5 pm and woke up today at 6. That is 13 hours sleep, which meant that I missed dinner. Just dozed off like there's no tomorrow. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
My legs didn't recover despite all the rest. Both quad muscles were still sore when I woke up. I think it's because I'm eating less.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
After packing up the camp, we started moving at 8 am. The
trail was a bit tricky at certain patches but involved long walks along
the steam. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
There are also many patches where you need to cross those streams but nothing that makes you take your shoes off. There were a LOT of boulder strewn stretches.</div>
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</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p_PNicYvU58/WVKayqWjtsI/AAAAAAAAFzU/6OVkWOPNkB8y8GGSVdl0OMHuQNUx5GWLgCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSCF4999.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p_PNicYvU58/WVKayqWjtsI/AAAAAAAAFzU/6OVkWOPNkB8y8GGSVdl0OMHuQNUx5GWLgCEwYBhgL/s320/DSCF4999.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I hate boulders</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
<br />
Also, I came across many meadows (thach) before I crossed Odi Thach. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bXkl3pWnN80/WVKawh8YhvI/AAAAAAAAFzU/y6hv3d04Sgg1zwIArTo_2AS3SU8EeqDpACEwYBhgL/s1600/DSCF4998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bXkl3pWnN80/WVKawh8YhvI/AAAAAAAAFzU/y6hv3d04Sgg1zwIArTo_2AS3SU8EeqDpACEwYBhgL/s320/DSCF4998.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Odi Thach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rH_rALT6Fb8/WVKhGYtPd0I/AAAAAAAAF0I/FvC6kVDSfPQql5eu-mg7Kvua0chyH8rFACLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF5002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rH_rALT6Fb8/WVKhGYtPd0I/AAAAAAAAF0I/FvC6kVDSfPQql5eu-mg7Kvua0chyH8rFACLcBGAs/s320/DSCF5002.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch with the shepherds</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
There were an average of 3 shepherds per meadow. We had a conversation with most of
them, asked them about their routines. Most gaddi (shepherds), stay in
the meadows for a period of 2-3 months for grazing.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Their complain is that
the government does little to make the Meadows accessible.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
There are two big hurdles to reach all the meadows before Mantalai from Barshaini, one is called Pathar ghat, the main antagonist of this trek and
Pandu Pul.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
After crossing various meadows, a steep descent leads you .. To.. Pandu pul.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<b><u>So, What is Pandu Pul?</u></b></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
A huge boulder supposedly erected by Bhim, from Mahabharata to help folks cross Parvati river.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
It starts with a boulder stair.. All the way to the top of
the huge rock. Then you walk on that rock which slants towards the river
but has good grip if you know where to keep your feet. The margin of error
is low, if you slip, you fall into the meat grinder of a river you call
Parvati.</div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z1s10D65rBs/WVKhddduOfI/AAAAAAAAF0Q/PxPMqtdmoDEs0JM6oiUtUYfuSdIxA7ujgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF5007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z1s10D65rBs/WVKhddduOfI/AAAAAAAAF0Q/PxPMqtdmoDEs0JM6oiUtUYfuSdIxA7ujgCLcBGAs/s320/DSCF5007.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pandu pul from above</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8xhA_l2tPpc/WVKhTLn8WRI/AAAAAAAAF0M/-l03xbRUqqoXuHvynxkHzbgFHroJ8ji8QCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF5008.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8xhA_l2tPpc/WVKhTLn8WRI/AAAAAAAAF0M/-l03xbRUqqoXuHvynxkHzbgFHroJ8ji8QCLcBGAs/s320/DSCF5008.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is more intimidating than it looks</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I treaded carefully and with help from Rajesh, made it
across. After crossing Pandu Pul, there's another rock bridge, smaller
but similar risk equation.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
After crossing the bridges, one might think the job is done. No. <br />
You climb steep and then walk on a narrow trail with exposure to the
river for a bit. The trail then wounds into a campsite besides a glacial stream (which everyone calls "Nala").<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ig7BcqG-lgw/WVKiE6_Wb8I/AAAAAAAAF0Y/fTe5ok_-8AoGdnrTk9X8-lnhx0tfYpwGgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF5029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ig7BcqG-lgw/WVKiE6_Wb8I/AAAAAAAAF0Y/fTe5ok_-8AoGdnrTk9X8-lnhx0tfYpwGgCLcBGAs/s320/DSCF5029.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On top of Pandu Pul</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2er5kaVof5k/WVKhsLi-wnI/AAAAAAAAF0U/vnG42GYxvUcOSdiula2NcBsreJ2t_uEdACLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF5010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2er5kaVof5k/WVKhsLi-wnI/AAAAAAAAF0U/vnG42GYxvUcOSdiula2NcBsreJ2t_uEdACLcBGAs/s320/DSCF5010.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On top of Jr. Pandu Pul, this comes after Pandu Pul</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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And this is where we are camping for today. Nice, serene place, the river on the right of the onward trail.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2xH2yYq-6eU/WVKiQtqpdSI/AAAAAAAAF0c/sQrZ2jECLP0dKLoSSCIdq5pVFzCuFch9ACLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF5014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2xH2yYq-6eU/WVKiQtqpdSI/AAAAAAAAF0c/sQrZ2jECLP0dKLoSSCIdq5pVFzCuFch9ACLcBGAs/s320/DSCF5014.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9n741BngCpk/WVKiTIOF1bI/AAAAAAAAF0g/c8C3KQDe1WAxsQtzpHQ7CGR9wpADKgLpQCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF5024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9n741BngCpk/WVKiTIOF1bI/AAAAAAAAF0g/c8C3KQDe1WAxsQtzpHQ7CGR9wpADKgLpQCLcBGAs/s320/DSCF5024.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stunning campsite at Pandu Pul</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I'm so close to civilisation. There's just one final
antagonist. Pathar ghat. A spider wall section with full exposure to
Parvati river for a distance of 1-1.5 km.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I'm just hoping my legs recover by tomorrow. Walking was
all pain today. I would often stop, moaning in pain. My shoulders and
back screaming for mercy too. My body is unraveling. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
This is the day that I just had to endure. Things would've
been a lot different if I had actually prepared, physically, for this
trek. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I wouldn't be like Jesus bearing a cross, having a voluntary crucifixion.</div>
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<br /></div>
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But hey, one more day, I got this. </div>
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<br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Day 8 - Pandu pul campsite to Kheerganga</h2>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Woke up at 6, I felt extremely lazy in the morning. My legs were still cramped up. Felt like there were lumps in my quads.<br />
Today was the day, full lunge towards Kheerganga. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
We started walking at 7:10 am and at around 8:30 am, we were at Thakur kuan.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VVbhqtnads4/WVKlc8PirUI/AAAAAAAAF1E/Inka4-53NU0Wf6MCZEUnxTgZrJ_2LIuyACLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF5026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VVbhqtnads4/WVKlc8PirUI/AAAAAAAAF1E/Inka4-53NU0Wf6MCZEUnxTgZrJ_2LIuyACLcBGAs/s320/DSCF5026.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thakur kuan campsite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
This is when things start to get interesting and next you face.. Pathar Ghat.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Pathar ghat is a series of rock patches with exposure to Parvati river. Sometimes it's a waterfall you'll be cutting across, other times, you'll be scampering on small grooves on rocks to reach the trail on the other side. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The grip is very minimal. You have to be precise and ensure your hands
are free to hold on to protruding rocks for body balance. Crossing this section requires use of all
four limbs. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I packed my hiking stick into the bag.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I would like to add, that even though the grooves are small, you get good grip on the rocks. If you choose to cross this patch, ensure there hasn't been any rain lately. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Do not proceed till you've tested the grip can hold your weight.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
After about 5-6 tricky patches, your ordeal is over. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The toughest patch in my opinion was crossing across the final waterfall which looked like an esselworld slide, to death. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
I came to know that going through Pathar ghat wasn't needed a few years back when there was a bridge across the river. Trekkers would simply go via Thakur kuan to an alternate, greener trail, descend down to the river banks and cross via the bridge.<br />
<br />
That bridge, due to wear and tear, is history now and all you see are it's remains, leaving trekkers with no option but to scamper on the dreaded... Pathar ghat.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wwD306BlI0I/WVKigqVCV2I/AAAAAAAAF0s/m4pqi5Gt9Es61nKJwiJZV0v2UAkOZKDfgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF5031.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wwD306BlI0I/WVKigqVCV2I/AAAAAAAAF0s/m4pqi5Gt9Es61nKJwiJZV0v2UAkOZKDfgCLcBGAs/s320/DSCF5031.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not having the time of my life</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
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</div>
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</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D7x1jPBw8_I/WVKk6EIcMoI/AAAAAAAAF08/6Em-drX4M0snc2OwAoCIz6W0jORT_e1yQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20170624_111937_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D7x1jPBw8_I/WVKk6EIcMoI/AAAAAAAAF08/6Em-drX4M0snc2OwAoCIz6W0jORT_e1yQCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_20170624_111937_HDR.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Broken Bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
<br />
A fairly simple trail along the river leads you to Tunda Bhuj. It took us around 3 hours to reach Tunda Bhuj.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Tunda bhuj is a campsite with a dhaba. The dhaba is run by an old baba (everyone calls him that).<br />
This is a good place to give away all your spare ration, medicines, fuel etc (if you're doing Spiti to Parvati)</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RHeLlmKf_qw/WVKif1o4WII/AAAAAAAAF0o/yDgsrGYmMrkjvWCrPNEOhAquOYbKuRK8gCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF5034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RHeLlmKf_qw/WVKif1o4WII/AAAAAAAAF0o/yDgsrGYmMrkjvWCrPNEOhAquOYbKuRK8gCLcBGAs/s320/DSCF5034.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Tunda Bhuj campsite from afar<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Baba has been an ascetic for 40 years but one look at him and you'll know god doesn't exist. </div>
He told me that it takes 2 hours to reach Kheerganga from Tunda Bhuj. Later, it turned out to be not true :/<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MNxUyDqZp4A/WVKidcCAiDI/AAAAAAAAF00/8VDWVHLP2y8pLNyTFnPeJoAKcrR9xBxRACEwYBhgL/s1600/DSCF5042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MNxUyDqZp4A/WVKidcCAiDI/AAAAAAAAF00/8VDWVHLP2y8pLNyTFnPeJoAKcrR9xBxRACEwYBhgL/s320/DSCF5042.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me with Tunda Bhuj "Baba"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I wish I had the distances memorized in my mind. It helps
set your pace. But then, I didn't do a lot of background research that I
usually do for this trek.<br />
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
After 3 hours of walking uphill and downhill there was no
sign of either Kheer or Ganga. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Rajesh wasn't too familiar with this side
of the valley and wasn't confident when I kept asking him how far away
we were.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
We even took a wrong turn and got lost in thick jungle. The trail was
way below us and we had veered off into the trails used by shepherds.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Descending from thick vegetation towards the trail was difficult as I couldn't see what was underneath all the green cover. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
It wasted a good 20 minutes, getting back on the trail.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Things were normal from thereon, the trail from Tunda bhuj to Kheerganga is mostly a mix of downhill and uphill.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TIUGbdBfVXI/WVKmiDLmpHI/AAAAAAAAF1M/Kj_ptNuc8LglfOJlj-Sw4mCPY-xfclrKgCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCF5053.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TIUGbdBfVXI/WVKmiDLmpHI/AAAAAAAAF1M/Kj_ptNuc8LglfOJlj-Sw4mCPY-xfclrKgCLcBGAs/s320/DSCF5053.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welcome to Tent Ganga</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
After walking for 4 hours, from Tunda Bhuj, we finally
reached Kheerganga. You can see it from a distance. Tents, tents and
more tents. It's like a mini party place, standing out like a sore thumb. </div>
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</div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
For 5 days, I was in paradise. And here I am, in the hub of
debauchery in the Himalayas. Bunch of people desperate to show off
their "swag". Loud speakers blaring everywhere. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
I cringed hard. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I wanted to go full John wick on everyone, 5 days of isolation and I thought I'd be happy to see people. I couldn't have been more wrong.<br />
<br />
While I was happy that I made it, I was sad at what has become of Kheerganga. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
If I wasn't so tired, I would've avoided this place.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
The trek is over (No, I don't consider Kheerganga to Barshaini a trek).</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I took a bath in the hot springs and reminisced about all that transpired during the course of the trek. It felt so unreal, especially giving the contrast of how things were and how things are now, at where I am, in Kheerganga. </div>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
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</div>
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Looking back, From Day 1 when it was a 30+ km walk, to that
miserable day below the pass when I thought my survival was threatened, to that dreadful Pre-Mantalai patch, there was always a huge deterrent, always something to keep you on your toes. </div>
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<br />
Even Pathar ghat, how can I leave that out.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Make no mistake, there are no easy days if you're trekking Pin Parvati Pass.</div>
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There are sections where you get to breathe, savor them, you'll need it for the difficulties that are always present on the trail ahead. </div>
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</div>
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<br /></div>
<h2 style="text-align: left;">
Day 9 - Kheerganga to Barshaini</h2>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3>
</h3>
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Last night was miserable, loud speakers blaring till midnight, I could not get any sleep.</div>
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I just wanted to get out of Kheerganga so badly. We left Kheerganga at around 5:30 am and reached Barshaini at around 8:30 am. </div>
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The trail is something I don't need to describe. Just
follow the trail of garbage left by idiots, I promise you'll end up in
Barshaini. <br />
<br />
Disgusting.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<i><u><b>PS -</b></u></i><br />
<br />
Pin Parvati can be made into a somewhat easier trek if<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>The wooden bridge after Pandu pul is repaired so that one doesn't need to walk on a huge rock to get to the other side</li>
<li>The bridge after Pathar ghat is repaired so the entire rocky section notorious for getting people injured can be bypassed </li>
<li>A permanent all weather ladder is installed at that Mantalai rock patch</li>
</ul>
I hope none of these things ever happen.<br />
After witnessing the savagery at Kheerganga, I am reminded of the potential of nuisance people can create.<br />
<br />
Pin Parvati has been the best experience of my life so far. Such serenity, such cleanliness, such purity. If you can bring yourself to reach this place, you'll find yourself in the company of finest grandeur nature has to offer. <br />
<br />
A grandeur which can only be respected by people who risk their lives to reach it.<br />
<div>
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<br />
<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4rU-QTLQoYTWWhJTXhSZ2hTaXM">Link to album</a><br />
<br />
<i>Disclaimer : </i><br />
Please do not use images without permission.<i> </i><br />
<i>If you use them, I will find you and I will kill you (Liam Neeson voice)</i></div>
</div>
</div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-55626892798000137852016-04-18T13:49:00.000-07:002016-04-18T19:28:26.225-07:00Panwali Kantha<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr">
A day by day account of my experiences while hiking Panwali Kantha, which is a high altitude pass and sprawling meadow in Garhwal Himalayas. </div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
<b>
</b>
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<b>Day 0 Delhi to Rishikesh</b></h3>
<b>
</b>
<br />
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I made a random plan to trek to Panwali Kantha. Came home
from work, booked a bus seat, packed my bags, bought a few utilities and
off I went.</div>
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I definitely feel that sense of purpose. The entire journey
in the metro, I was immersed in deep thoughts. A visual of what I
expect from this trip. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The guy standing next to me in the metro had a tattoo on his right arm.<br />
"Nothing shall be impossible" - Luke 13:7.<br />
Amen to that!</div>
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Another guy in the metro was presumably chatting with his wife on Whatsapp<br />
Husband - "Aaj khane mein kya hai?"<br />
Wife - "Dal roti and bhindi"<br />
Husband - "Aaj khane mein maza aayega, kal bhi maza aaya tha"</div>
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He kept talking about food for the next 5-6 messages.. Dude must be really hungry.</div>
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Yes, I peep into other people's whatsapp messages with no regard to their privacy. It's fun.</div>
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Traveling alone is surely a far richer experience. Not that anybody doubts that statement.</div>
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The private buses to Rishikesh leave from Kashmere Gate metro station, Gate 2.<br />
I'm here well in advance. As per the plan.</div>
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Right now I'm expecting a brutal first day and a cakewalk on Day 2 and if it comes to that, on Day 3.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Expenditure for the day :</div>
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Bus to Rishikesh 600 INR</div>
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<br /></div>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3 dir="ltr">
Day 1 Rishikesh to Gutthu</h3>
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It was a brutal day, just as I expected but not because of the trekking effort. <br />
There was no direct bus available to Gutthu, which is the base village for this trek.<br />
I ended up taking a bus to a place called Ghanshali.<br />
Let's just say, I'm emotionally scarred of traveling in buses for the rest of my life.<br />
It was a private bus (Government buses don't ply on that route) and the
conductor kept filling the bus till there was no void left in the bus.<br />
Just humans stockpiled like livestock.</div>
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I'm sure that conductor cannot be electrocuted. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
He was a bad conductor.</div>
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<br /></div>
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I did get a seat since I boarded the bus from its starting
point but even then it was difficult to breathe, people were puking all
around me, I myself felt like puking and the route to Ghanshali isn't
exactly a straight road. The bus seats were perpendicular = RIP spine.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Straight roads do not exist in Garhwal. Only twists and
turns. I think I did really well to not puke. Losing key nutrients AND
being in that bus from hell would've been diabolical.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Not only did the bus give me absolute hell, it also arrived 2 hours late. <br />
It is in moments like these when your inner conflict speaks up. <br />
"What the hell are you doing?"<br />
"You could've just been sleeping in the AC right now"<br />
"You could've chosen an easier place to travel to"</div>
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<br /></div>
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Well, screw all of those thoughts. Nothing worth having is easy to get.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I took a cab from Ghanshali to Ghuttu which took another
hour and a half. I split the expenses with a family who also had to
reach Ghuttu to attend a wedding. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
This is why everything is screwed up. Lots of weddings = all cabs booked = pandemonium in buses = Fuck my life.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Love 1 - Prashant 0</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I finally reached the GMVN guest house at 5 PM. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
What this meant :</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Goodbye Day 1 Trek plans!<br />
Have to finish the trek in 2 days instead of 3.<br />
I have time to explore Ghuttu. <br />
I'm gonna sleep like it's my last night </div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
After having a dry bath, I headed out for snacks, bought milk for tomorrow's breakfast.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D3adIDxExZI/VxU-EzuqFYI/AAAAAAAAD7E/Wr-OBBr3sqcleWMfSV6iRaqo_J-OB2vcACLcB/s1600/DSCF4609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D3adIDxExZI/VxU-EzuqFYI/AAAAAAAAD7E/Wr-OBBr3sqcleWMfSV6iRaqo_J-OB2vcACLcB/s320/DSCF4609.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gutthu in the evening</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I came back to the room and instantly fell asleep.</div>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
I woke up in a couple of hours feeling extremely groggy. It was 8 and Gutthu had visibly fallen asleep.<br />
I used my torch to guide myself to a nearby dhaba. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Nutrition is one of my key focuses this trek. I have got
protein powder along and make sure to have some high protein source
every meal.<br />
I had 5 boiled eggs along with the usual dinner.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Later in the night, a forest official came to my room and collected camping and permission fee.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Expenses for the day</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Hellish Bus ride to Ghanshali from Rishikesh - 185 INR<br />
Lunch at Ghanshali - 80 INR<br />
Cab from Ghanshali to Ghattu - 250 INR <br />
Ration for the trek - 620 INR<br />
Tea and juice - 40 INR<br />
GMVN guest house room - 500 INR<br />
Forest permit - 70 INR<br />
Dinner - 90 INR</div>
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<br /></div>
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</div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Day 2 Gutthu to Panwali Kantha </h3>
<div dir="ltr">
I woke up at around 6, reasonably rested. Today was supposed to be a long trekking day.<br />
Panwali Kantha is a meadow which is at 3400 m altitude. Gutthu is at an altitude of 1400m.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I met my guide Sajjan Singh early in the morning. We made a
round of the market to pick up a few essentials for the trek. We had
already bought all the ration yesterday. </div>
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<br /></div>
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We started to walk at 815 from Gutthu. The initial stretch was a cakewalk. There wasn't too much climb to begin with.</div>
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</div>
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</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0nwURCvEQI0/VxU-nXDoQOI/AAAAAAAAD7Q/QZCQxqUN2_sYmM_2Un0CwSVmqM7IiU42QCLcB/s1600/DSCF4618.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0nwURCvEQI0/VxU-nXDoQOI/AAAAAAAAD7Q/QZCQxqUN2_sYmM_2Un0CwSVmqM7IiU42QCLcB/s320/DSCF4618.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gutthu and surrounding villages, initial trail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
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</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L-Kr8uhJOA8/VxU-lHxHCII/AAAAAAAAD7M/zN3XWrq9_iQh5YBU-5IjQMoZKmGxftkbgCKgB/s1600/DSCF4619.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L-Kr8uhJOA8/VxU-lHxHCII/AAAAAAAAD7M/zN3XWrq9_iQh5YBU-5IjQMoZKmGxftkbgCKgB/s320/DSCF4619.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lgj4-yRq4SQ/VxU-id8lALI/AAAAAAAAD7I/o_qDXlT6OecuHn7VOQagoNzp258sF2IOwCKgB/s1600/DSCF4621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lgj4-yRq4SQ/VxU-id8lALI/AAAAAAAAD7I/o_qDXlT6OecuHn7VOQagoNzp258sF2IOwCKgB/s320/DSCF4621.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The initial stretch is a cakewalk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
But really soon, the sun became really harsh and the trail became really
steep. I was losing a lot of water through sweat. The shocker was when
the guide told me he's sharing my water. Also, the guides daughter also
joined us. </div>
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3 people, 1 water bladder. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
It got really hot and there was no wind. In moments like these, your demons come out.<br />
They tell you to roll over, lay down and stay down. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
My brisk pace turned into slow walking and eventually, into crawling at snails pace.<br />
I kept asking the guide "How far?" And he would look in disbelief and say "Abhi toh hai".</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zKdkmUTQay8/VxU_czfoVxI/AAAAAAAAD7g/3_ReuY5Hduw73NQcVqMljPjURU1dVhmkACLcB/s1600/DSCF4628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zKdkmUTQay8/VxU_czfoVxI/AAAAAAAAD7g/3_ReuY5Hduw73NQcVqMljPjURU1dVhmkACLcB/s320/DSCF4628.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bridge where the cakewalk ends</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3H2yLQlbxF8/VxU_bXXNaVI/AAAAAAAAD7c/2g4eSA4tk5I26HPZ4GdUg0M2bUHuKWsQQCLcB/s1600/DSCF4636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3H2yLQlbxF8/VxU_bXXNaVI/AAAAAAAAD7c/2g4eSA4tk5I26HPZ4GdUg0M2bUHuKWsQQCLcB/s320/DSCF4636.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last water refill point, 3 kms from Gutthu</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Th7mirqYnJM/VxU_amdv8fI/AAAAAAAAD7Y/kCHkiiLIUnAJcDcdp9GAWiCs7oxcKLJrACLcB/s1600/DSCF4640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Th7mirqYnJM/VxU_amdv8fI/AAAAAAAAD7Y/kCHkiiLIUnAJcDcdp9GAWiCs7oxcKLJrACLcB/s320/DSCF4640.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The unconventional jungle route</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QxXMTqCAgbE/VxU_fvlok7I/AAAAAAAAD7k/HN0PyTZ-b-A_NHTDixA3XFhDfFZlgmmdgCLcB/s1600/DSCF4641.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QxXMTqCAgbE/VxU_fvlok7I/AAAAAAAAD7k/HN0PyTZ-b-A_NHTDixA3XFhDfFZlgmmdgCLcB/s320/DSCF4641.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No clouds, all sun</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
We reached the halfway point at 1215. It was a small campsite with a few Shepherd huts, mostly abandoned. This is also from where you get a last view of Gutthu. </div>
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<br />
<br />
I ate the packed food I had brought along from Gutthu. I could barely eat. The heat was making me nauseous.<br />
Luckily, I had carried ORS with me. I felt so proud of myself. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Losing pottassium? No problem!<br />
I have sachets of Sodium and Potassium with me!<br />
Oh! The little joys of life!</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
I mixed ORS in a bottle of water and drank half of it. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
After taking a short nap, we left for Panwali.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
The thing is.. There are two ways to get there. One is what
these people call a "Road" because mules ply on them, other is what the locals call a "Shortcut ", which is more like scrambling through dense jungle.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I looked at both options and chose the shortcut, just because of the tree shade.<br />
However, the big problem with shortcut is the steepness intensifies.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
The heat and the never ending climb gave me a tough time. I
climbed gnashing my teeth. I had a lot of negativity creeping in my head by now, especially due to the water condition </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
"You're not gonna make it, there's no water, too much sun and too much left to climb"<br />
"Shut up, Shut the fuck up" is what I kept telling the voices in my head.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I grabbed a tree branch for walking support since my legs were auto collapsing at the knees.<br />
Finally, something good happened. I think it's the ORS that started to kick in. <br />
I felt a little stronger and my headache was gone.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think I found Gandalf's staff</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is "Brahns" flower, It is edible, I ate a few of these.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eDYTv9hz3OM/VxVBpdRmAkI/AAAAAAAAD8M/br792QGSBmQaJ84nBpYbLXpcadcP842kQCLcB/s1600/DSCF4691.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eDYTv9hz3OM/VxVBpdRmAkI/AAAAAAAAD8M/br792QGSBmQaJ84nBpYbLXpcadcP842kQCLcB/s320/DSCF4691.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f9K8KAcoif4/VxVCuJw79XI/AAAAAAAAD8c/UkN12WdAuMsFmMRLXKsavjSssASaPVGUgCLcB/s1600/DSCF4712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f9K8KAcoif4/VxVCuJw79XI/AAAAAAAAD8c/UkN12WdAuMsFmMRLXKsavjSssASaPVGUgCLcB/s320/DSCF4712.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Every now and then, the guide would show me how far Panwali still is and it looked like a small distant peak. Very distant.<br />
Isn't a guide supposed to do the opposite? <br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Anyways, soon I entered zombie mode.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
When this happens, I usually just stare at the rocks like
they're magnificent diamonds. There are just random things playing in my
head. Walking is spontaneous. <br />
Its my self defense mechanism of totally zoning myself out from the situation I'm in. <br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
After 3 hours of walking with a dry mouth. The guide
finally found a water source. It wasn't much but I got two glasses out
of a small water deposit. Pure gold.<br />
Ah! Not sure if I have ever enjoyed something as routine as drinking water so much.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I put my hat back on and started to walk towards a
destination which didn't seem so far away now. There was a spring in my
step and in my head, the theme song of the good, the bad and the ugly
was playing. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Things started to look bright. Not literally. <br />
The gradient changed from " I'm gonna kill your knees" to "You deserve a second chance in life".<br />
Beautiful bugyals for as far as I could look! All the negativity went Poof!<br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B1g9ZprcTJo/VxVCxCOXnqI/AAAAAAAAD8g/1iIThhGrE7QBKiizGQ0DPZHQGklYTzM1ACKgB/s1600/DSCF4711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B1g9ZprcTJo/VxVCxCOXnqI/AAAAAAAAD8g/1iIThhGrE7QBKiizGQ0DPZHQGklYTzM1ACKgB/s320/DSCF4711.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f9K8KAcoif4/VxVCuJw79XI/AAAAAAAAD8c/YQhFlPNeSCQAYPoQzq8eAOrpRmxU8-Y7ACKgB/s1600/DSCF4712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f9K8KAcoif4/VxVCuJw79XI/AAAAAAAAD8c/YQhFlPNeSCQAYPoQzq8eAOrpRmxU8-Y7ACKgB/s320/DSCF4712.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Endless meadows</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Around 4, I reached a place called Dofanda. Which literally
means " two strangles " or "two chokes". Doesn't make sense to me
either way but there was shade here. There was also tea!<br />
I rested and had a few snacks.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I just had kurkure, a few dates (the ones you eat) and I was off.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
There was a level walk for a while. I thoroughly enjoyed
it. It has been so rare during this trek. I picked up speed and had some
kind of a second wind.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I could see Panwali Kantha right in front of me!<br />
All that was in between was maybe a kilometre of, yet again, steep climb.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I rested, paused , took breathers and kept moving on. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Finally at 6 PM, after nearly 10 hours of labourious climbing, I reached the top of Panwali Kantha.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
There are a few temples at the pass. You can use them to
identify which one is Panwali Kantha as there are other bugyals in the
vicinity too.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
The campsite was a further 2 km away but hey, who gives a shit about descending now?<br />
As per gps reading, Panwali stands at 3400m.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PcOB0MF7SKU/VxVDgfhgCII/AAAAAAAAD8o/0tOa3ylOGk0qfFHzgyZnICwQuTkH5zpcQCLcB/s1600/DSCF4794.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PcOB0MF7SKU/VxVDgfhgCII/AAAAAAAAD8o/0tOa3ylOGk0qfFHzgyZnICwQuTkH5zpcQCLcB/s320/DSCF4794.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Panwali Kantha</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I did it. I under estimated this trek so much just by
looking at its not-so-high altitude and ended up almost waving the white
flag. <br />
There was a lot of negativity in my head, thoughts of going back etc. Especially, when my mouth was parched.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Or maybe that's what keeps me going.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I pitched my tent as soon as we reached Panwali.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Sajjan cooked dal and rice for dinner. The dinner was
cooked on fire wood in a shepherd encampment. There were a few utensils
also lying around which we used to prepare food.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<i>Note to self : Never take toor dal for high altitude cooking. Takes forever to cook and consumes a lot of water.</i></div>
<i>
</i>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
I wish I could see the starry skies but the clouds foiled my plan. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I'm in my tent now. Feeling a little breathless, very tired but extremely proud for not giving up.<br />
Worth it ;)</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Expenses -<br />
Packed lunch - 150 INR<br />
Onions and tomatoes - 30 INR </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<h3 dir="ltr">
Day 3 : Panwali Kantha to Gutthu</h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<div dir="ltr">
I woke up at around 6 but chose to stay in my sleeping bag. It was slightly cold and I was still tired.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
My sleeping bag was small for me, felt like I spent a night in a straight jacket. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tLiQJUl4J0I/VxVD_OsOT0I/AAAAAAAAD8w/noM-Cz3fJ089QIXyiY2Lij64wgBsCVyEQCKgB/s1600/DSCF4715.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tLiQJUl4J0I/VxVD_OsOT0I/AAAAAAAAD8w/noM-Cz3fJ089QIXyiY2Lij64wgBsCVyEQCKgB/s320/DSCF4715.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning at campsite below Panwali</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5QMh65pQPOM/VxVD8us5NiI/AAAAAAAAD8s/b1Tvy5aYl6sTExGuuuLmKWHGKopFiTxRwCKgB/s1600/DSCF4716.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5QMh65pQPOM/VxVD8us5NiI/AAAAAAAAD8s/b1Tvy5aYl6sTExGuuuLmKWHGKopFiTxRwCKgB/s320/DSCF4716.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mncr_XggfRs/VxVEBkSWhPI/AAAAAAAAD80/-RpqlLa3RtkYrT-z-VJIIghX5sUHxCkhgCKgB/s1600/DSCF4717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mncr_XggfRs/VxVEBkSWhPI/AAAAAAAAD80/-RpqlLa3RtkYrT-z-VJIIghX5sUHxCkhgCKgB/s320/DSCF4717.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Home sweet home</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xniQQydf7Zs/VxVEEKaGT-I/AAAAAAAAD84/9VDiovXMQxoToQNBCoOgKBv64k7RweePQCKgB/s1600/DSCF4720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xniQQydf7Zs/VxVEEKaGT-I/AAAAAAAAD84/9VDiovXMQxoToQNBCoOgKBv64k7RweePQCKgB/s320/DSCF4720.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That bliss when you wake up just in time to catch the sunrise</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The morning was beautiful and the sun rays revealed the
entirety of the bugyal. Something I couldn't pay much attention to,
yesterday. Also, got a glimpse of Kedarnath peak.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xniQQydf7Zs/VxVEEKaGT-I/AAAAAAAAD84/9VDiovXMQxoToQNBCoOgKBv64k7RweePQCKgB/s1600/DSCF4720.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sLGFbWnrJTg/VxVE_XpOAbI/AAAAAAAAD9I/IPs_D8iH0pwCi2Skt124EdifgAEkW5LFgCKgB/s1600/DSCF4752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sLGFbWnrJTg/VxVE_XpOAbI/AAAAAAAAD9I/IPs_D8iH0pwCi2Skt124EdifgAEkW5LFgCKgB/s320/DSCF4752.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-31JyHPvlFqI/VxVFChsjDRI/AAAAAAAAD9Q/e_lUYXjOjfojiMna12OUuksp7TWt7mswACKgB/s1600/DSCF4754.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-31JyHPvlFqI/VxVFChsjDRI/AAAAAAAAD9Q/e_lUYXjOjfojiMna12OUuksp7TWt7mswACKgB/s320/DSCF4754.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kedarnath peak </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--uAFTRMDlKw/VxVFHJZmB2I/AAAAAAAAD9U/E5aJEClCBVk94WQ1Cqv6Ls32jg6tpGjXgCKgB/s1600/DSCF4756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--uAFTRMDlKw/VxVFHJZmB2I/AAAAAAAAD9U/E5aJEClCBVk94WQ1Cqv6Ls32jg6tpGjXgCKgB/s320/DSCF4756.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Majestic views</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
I met no trekkers even today. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
This has befuddled me a lot. How can people spare this place? <br />
They sure as hell go to crappier ones. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The guide was in no hurry to leave. I had a cup of tea and a few biscuits. <br />
I picked up my camera and said to myself "Show time" but I ended up spending 15 minutes trying to figure out where to begin.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I now know what fat people feel when they see an extremely awesome looking pizza. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I climbed a little above the camp and clicked as many random pictures as I could. Especially, the self timer ones. <br />
Click, run, wait for 10 seconds to get over. I need a tripod.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xceYTAqOspA/VxVFCajTvHI/AAAAAAAAD9M/WWcYrGNWxmkWdOtIZskhvV0kLlU5geyBQCKgB/s1600/DSCF4750.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xceYTAqOspA/VxVFCajTvHI/AAAAAAAAD9M/WWcYrGNWxmkWdOtIZskhvV0kLlU5geyBQCKgB/s320/DSCF4750.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This took 5 attempts with the timer<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
I came back to my tent and slept for another 40 minutes when eventually the guide woke me up for breakfast. <br />
The same dal as yesterday, it took an eternity to get cooked. Maybe, in
Delhi, if somebody gave me half cooked food to eat, I would throw it and
order something nice. <br />
This is what I was thinking about while eating the uncooked dal. I managed to eat half of what was given to me.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wSiUsKtjp7E/VxVG6BwmqeI/AAAAAAAAD9w/C6m18HyoMqoDmvgHV1JF_VmgyYDhoEaEQCLcB/s1600/DSCF4765.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wSiUsKtjp7E/VxVG6BwmqeI/AAAAAAAAD9w/C6m18HyoMqoDmvgHV1JF_VmgyYDhoEaEQCLcB/s320/DSCF4765.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lazing in the tent</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
We left Panwali at 10 am. I was walking towards the temple
at the top when I saw a weird looking animal, with an even weirder
looking walk about 200m ahead of me.<br />
I clarified with the guide, the poor thing eats potatoes not human beings. <br />
<br />
With the final climb of the day over, I looked back at Panwali Kantha, bid adieu and started to descend.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--FJnTS5FLzQ/VxVGeYBeHEI/AAAAAAAAD90/AxrO4xytfuUXbDmtF88vkIjH95SCCwbQgCKgB/s1600/DSCF4775.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--FJnTS5FLzQ/VxVGeYBeHEI/AAAAAAAAD90/AxrO4xytfuUXbDmtF88vkIjH95SCCwbQgCKgB/s320/DSCF4775.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ySvaqzzP9Yk/VxVGlYD_2uI/AAAAAAAAD9s/-5iGbcioE8kBy7faBwbysc7_FxrIljh3wCKgB/s1600/DSCF4779.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ySvaqzzP9Yk/VxVGlYD_2uI/AAAAAAAAD9s/-5iGbcioE8kBy7faBwbysc7_FxrIljh3wCKgB/s320/DSCF4779.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pyCim1D7B3E/VxVGkKRl48I/AAAAAAAAD90/JB1Wg9FBaJUtXJGurQXX_xcFwA8OtnKuACKgB/s1600/DSCF4793.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pyCim1D7B3E/VxVGkKRl48I/AAAAAAAAD90/JB1Wg9FBaJUtXJGurQXX_xcFwA8OtnKuACKgB/s320/DSCF4793.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
<br />
Well, about the descend.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Today was all descend, obviously. <br />
We ditched the "road" as they like to call it and took "short cuts" all the way down.<br />
Within no time, I found myself traversing in a steeply sloped thick
jungle with huge amount of dead leaves everywhere to complicate matters.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
RIP Knees.</div>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
The bright side, however, was that we reached all the checkpoints real fast. <br />
The guide however made sure to spend a good amount of time at every checkpoint. He didn't seem to be in a hurry at all!<br />
"Chalo chai peete hain"<br />
"Thodi der mein chalte hain, aaram kar lo"</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SmENA4Sco-w/VxVHkQKDU-I/AAAAAAAAD94/fZP3RMU4W5gi8abiTbgk3skQmvn4GWOnACLcB/s1600/DSCF4802.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SmENA4Sco-w/VxVHkQKDU-I/AAAAAAAAD94/fZP3RMU4W5gi8abiTbgk3skQmvn4GWOnACLcB/s320/DSCF4802.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside a shepherds home</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Little did he know that all that I was thinking about was reaching the guest house and taking a nice shower. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
That's how the return journey for me usually is, especially in case of non-circuit treks.<br />
Get in, Get the hell out, ASAP.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I had also dropped my sunscreen and the sun was really beating down when we reached lower altitude.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
After criss-crossing the jungle and the "road", we finally
reached the bridge. As far as I could remember, this was the spot till
where I was cakewalking yesterday. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Gutthu was nearby. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The problem is, that in all of your anticipation of
reaching the base, your mind dupes you into believing that distances are
smaller.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
With the thought "Almost there.." , I walked for a good hour and a half, expecting the base village at the end of every turn.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
When I finally saw it, I had no joy. <br />
Yeah.. Whatever.. Trek over.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I reached Gutthu and saw people getting married all over. No, seriously, one baraat from one lane, another from the next one.<br />
The entire village was getting married. Nope, still not exaggerating. <br />
Wedding congregations left, right and just about everywhere. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sblSjiXP2AU/VxVH4sqh-sI/AAAAAAAAD-A/3VzXAQxWB6E86qnorBU2Jr8-B4HJUATCwCLcB/s1600/DSCF4812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sblSjiXP2AU/VxVH4sqh-sI/AAAAAAAAD-A/3VzXAQxWB6E86qnorBU2Jr8-B4HJUATCwCLcB/s320/DSCF4812.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A minute of silence for a fallen comrade</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
I felt like going back to Panwali but I had to consider a few things :<br />
<br />
1. THAT blister on my right foot<br />
2. I actually have a job and my father is not a billionaire<br />
3. Probably a bad idea to live on a mountain pass because people are idiots who get married out of social obligations. Idiots. <br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Expenses of the day -</div>
<div dir="ltr">
A bottle of Maazaa - 40 INR<br />
Shampoo - 1 INR<br />
Rin bar - 10 INR <br />
GMVN Guest house - 500 INR<br />
Sleeping bags rent - 500 INR<br />
Dinner - 105 INR</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<h3 dir="ltr">
Day 4 - Ghuttu to Delhi via Rishikesh</h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<div dir="ltr">
Nothing unusual. Took a cab at 9:30 AM to Ghansali. It took the standard hour and a half.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
The views were spectacular. Roads winding down the valley. I must have missed it while coming.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I did nothing today besides sitting in a bus or a shared jeep.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Very uneventful but unavoidable. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Ghuttu to Ghanshali - 1.5 hrs<br />
Ghanshali to Rishikesh - 4 hours<br />
Rishikesh to Delhi - 7 hours</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Delhi to Gurgaon - 1 hour </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Expenses for the day :</div>
Guide 2000 INR<br />
Lunch 80 INR<br />
Ghuttu to Ghanshali shared cab - 60 INR<br />
Ghanshali to Rishikesh shared cab - 230 INR<br />
Rishikesh to Delhi upsrtc Jan rath - 386 INR<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
<u>Trek facts : </u></h3>
<br />
1. Distance - 18 Km one way as per guide, 15 Kms as per GPS trail while descending<br />
<br />
2. Max Altitude - 3373 m<br />
<br />
3. Time for ascent - 9-10 hrs <br />
<br />
4. Time for descent - 7-8 hrs<br />
<br />
5. Elevation profile :<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hv56h5tdAPg/VxWVrflgtxI/AAAAAAAAD-U/6wuxQB9usMAjoaOh-kJBR97RBOLu_JkUgCLcB/s1600/Panwali%2BElevation%2Bprofile.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hv56h5tdAPg/VxWVrflgtxI/AAAAAAAAD-U/6wuxQB9usMAjoaOh-kJBR97RBOLu_JkUgCLcB/s400/Panwali%2BElevation%2Bprofile.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
6. Expenses (ex-Delhi, with guide) - 6 to 7K INR<br />
<br />
7. GPS trails :<br />
<br />
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4rU-QTLQoYTTHhiNGVaeEViQW8<br />
<br />
<i>GPS trail is indicative since it was logged at 1 log/minute. </i> <br />
<br /></div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-77617982934587363832016-02-07T09:47:00.002-08:002016-02-08T21:33:49.183-08:00Chadar Trek<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I must have some irreversible attachment with Ladakh. I was there in September and I have just returned from there today.<br />
<br />
This time, I went for Chadar trek. The planned route was -<br />
<br />
Zok to Tilat Sumdo to Shingra Koma to Tsomo to Dibb to Nerak<br />
<br />
However, As I learned in the last few days, Trekking in the Zanskar valley is highly unpredictable.<br />
To beat the Chadar, you have to become the chadar.<br />
Cold, constantly reformed, hard.<br />
<br />
My perception of cold also kept changing on a daily basis. I think that is the USP of this trek.<br />
Dealing with extreme cold is part of the adventure.<br />
It was fun watching the Zanskaris deal with it though. Whats routine for them is adventure for us. I wonder if enough people realize that. They probably do.<br />
<br />
We couldn't make it past Tsomo due to the Chadar not having formed from there on.<br />
There was an alternate route via the rock patches on the side of the river but even after it, there didn't seem much to keep any hopes of progress alive.<br />
<br />
However, we did get a good share of walking on the Chadar. It was a different experience overall.<br />
My mind was confused on what to achieve to call this trek a success since scaling a peak is what I usually do.<br />
<br />
Perhaps I wanted a different experience with a different approach.<br />
<br />
Below is an account of my experiences of the trip :<br />
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<b>Day 1 Delhi to Leh - Rest and acclimitisation </b></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I didn't sleep too much or too well the night before the
flight. It is becoming a trend now. I get over cautious of over sleeping
and missing the flight. <br />
The flight departure was at 8:45 AM. I reached airport 2 hours earlier.
Turned out to be a wise move since there was more rush at the security
check than I've ever seen before, presumably due to some terror threats.<br />
I couldn't get the coveted "F" seat. They were all taken. I did,
instead, get a seat near the emergency exit which I had to give away to a
lady.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
At the airport, the agency's trip organizer received me and
accommodated me in a vehicle with 3 women. They were part of my group
headed to Neyrak. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
We were accommodated in Hotel Junaid near the main market. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I went to have lunch with them near Bimla hotel where I stayed last time when I was in Leh. I even managed to meet the hotel manager, Dhangiri. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
It was a lazy afternoon and all of us curled up besides the room heater.
I had a mild headache for a while which went away after dinner.<br />
It was cold. Really cold. <br />
Imagine roaming naked on Delhi streets in peak winter. That cold.<br />
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<b>Day 2 Rest at Leh </b></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Another uneventful day. We got moved to a different hotel to bring all the members of the group together. <br />
The folks who were supposed to reach Leh today couldn't make it due to all the flights getting canceled. <br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting ready in a jiffy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I ate a lot of food today. Started with the morning walk I
took on the snow covered lanes of Leh. The whole town was like a
melancholy painting. Not too many colors though, just white.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow covered Leh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R0mOg1a1bDE/VrgPLsqrjRI/AAAAAAAAD5A/GKy-Pc5MZg8/s1600/IMG_20160130_075529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R0mOg1a1bDE/VrgPLsqrjRI/AAAAAAAAD5A/GKy-Pc5MZg8/s320/IMG_20160130_075529.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The only tea stall open early morning in Leh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The group size got reduced to 8 due to the flight cancellation, which was good, since more the people, more the complaints, more chances of cancellation.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
The day was warmer when the sun came out, I took off one layer and still felt fine. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The night was really cold, the temperature dipped sharply. I felt cold but managed to still get a good night sleep. I slept thinking about the trek. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<b>Day 3 Leh to Tilat Sumdo to Shingra Koma</b></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
It took 3 hours to reach the point of starting the trek. It
was a fairly bumpy ride. We had a road block, literally, there was a
landslide and it took 2 hours to clear up.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready for the drive to Chilling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KSequwSeIuw/VrgPYUaaUjI/AAAAAAAAD5A/1uZt4YWOqWg/s1600/IMG_20160131_123815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KSequwSeIuw/VrgPYUaaUjI/AAAAAAAAD5A/1uZt4YWOqWg/s320/IMG_20160131_123815.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caught in a landslide, no escape from reality</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We reached Tilat Sumdo which is the starting point of Chadar trek.
The campsite was 1.5 Km from there, a beautiful place along the frozen
river.</div>
There were just too many trekkers there. For a moment, It felt like I'm visiting a carnival. Our camp provided really good food.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day 1 Campsite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our guide - Stenzing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The cold wasn't that much surprisingly. I think I am getting used to it or I over expected<br />
Not too much walking today besides the 40-45 minutes gentle descent to Shingra Koma.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gx88oozKVeo/VrgDL7rrOwI/AAAAAAAAD2Y/bkBU9eMOsR4/s1600/DSCF4468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gx88oozKVeo/VrgDL7rrOwI/AAAAAAAAD2Y/bkBU9eMOsR4/s320/DSCF4468.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Porter walking calmly on the Chadar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<b>Day 4 Shinga Koma to Tsomo </b></div>
<b>
</b>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
We set off from the camp at 9 am. Everyone was extra careful in treading on the Chadar, me included.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Over the past few days, I had heard too many stories from
locals of trekkers getting engulfed inside Chadar and others suffering
serious injuries by just falling on the hard frozen river.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
There was no tiredness whatsoever, even after walking for a
few hours. I heard a few people in my group fell. I did OK and only
managed to slide often but not fall.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AyZZz_FX9Cw/VrgD05nqvTI/AAAAAAAAD2Y/ga3PF6e848M/s1600/DSCF4473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AyZZz_FX9Cw/VrgD05nqvTI/AAAAAAAAD2Y/ga3PF6e848M/s320/DSCF4473.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I think I'm getting a hang of how things work here. These are the following types of surfaces to walk on : </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
1. Shiny slippery ice which is flat</div>
<div dir="ltr">
2. Shiny slippery ice which is irregularly surfaced</div>
<div dir="ltr">
3. Shiny slippery ice which is either a slope or a gradient</div>
<div dir="ltr">
4. Ice which seems translucent</div>
<div dir="ltr">
5. Snow</div>
<div dir="ltr">
6. Snow on shiny ice</div>
<div dir="ltr">
7. Rocky side mountains<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If it shines, it is slippery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ygoZyv2EXU4/VrgFtR3tp2I/AAAAAAAAD2w/TTU74lf-m_0/s1600/DSCF4496.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ygoZyv2EXU4/VrgFtR3tp2I/AAAAAAAAD2w/TTU74lf-m_0/s320/DSCF4496.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Walking on shiny Ice is the trickiest. You have to refrain from taking long strides and stick to walking like a penguin without lifting your feet too much from the ground. The snow covered patches are the easiest to traverse on and give a sense of relief, however, one cannot take off the focus as sometimes its just a decoy and there's slippery ice beneath the snow. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<br /></div>
After a couple of hours of walking, we reached Shingra Yoma. Shingra Yoma gets its fair share of sunshine. Most of the valley is shadow covered and sunlight is a rare
sight.<br />
Over the past few days, sitting in the sun has become my favorite pastime, along with sitting really close to the bon fire at night.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Tea and Lunch, in that order, at Shingra Yoma</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After a quick lunch, we proceeded towards our campsite for the day, Tsomo.<br />
The campsite was adjacent to the Zanskar river, on an elevated platform adjacent to a few caves.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me @ Tsomo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The weather here deserves a special mention since it was breathtakingly cold.<br />
And, no, "breathtakingly" isn't an adjective.<br />
<br />
Over the course of my existence, I don't remember shivering so much. The cold makes your toes and fingers numb. You shiver but it doesn't seem to abate. The more you acknowledge it presence, the more it makes life difficult for you.<br />
<br />
Our camp cook made us all dinner on his kerosene stove. I used to envy him since the Kitchen tent is the coziest place in the camp.<br />
<br />
My strategy was to crash as early as possible and gather whatever sleep I get.<br />
And so, I called it a day not too soon after the dinner.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Day 5 Tsomo to mid-way to Tibb to Tsomo </b><br />
<br />
The night before was really horrible. It felt like the cold was winning. My feet hurt and I kept shivering constantly. I tried thinking about different things in my life to distract myself but it did not help.<br />
The cold was overwhelming.<br />
<br />
There has only been one instance when I've felt like the night isn't ever going to end.<br />
This would comfortably sit at #2 if I had to draw a list of "Top 10 Worst nights".<br />
<br />
I "woke up" at 6, spent some time in the Kitchen tent trying to defrost my soul.<br />
Yes, it felt like my soul has frozen. I didn't feel anything but cold.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">The super cozy Kitchen tent</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We all completed our morning rituals and left the camp at around 9 AM.<br />
The idea was to reach Tibb today.<br />
<br />
However, things didn't work our way and we had to retreat from a point mid-way to Tibb owing to non-formation of Chadar. By that, I mean that the river wasn't frozen and we had one rock patch on the side to bypass the river.<br />
<br />
Our guide, Stenzing, took me and another guy from our group to show us the situation.<br />
Now, I'm a person who has issues in giving up almost anything. I don't mean that in a self complimentary way but in a more "this-is-my-attribute" way.<br />
Looking at the situation, judging the guide's opinion, I recommended the group to not try moving ahead.<br />
<br />
A shorter group could have possibly made it but we were 13 people and the porters were carrying huge weights consequently. I did all the permutations and combinations in my head.<br />
There were just too many factors favouring we retreat to our camp and judge things the next day.<br />
<br />
1. Guide's advice<br />
2. Porter's weights<br />
3. Group fitness levels<br />
4. Other groups decision to turn back<br />
<br />
The factors mentioned above are in order of their priority.<br />
<br />
We turned back and headed to where we had camped earlier. It wasn't too far, a leisurely 45 minutes walk. There was one small side-mountain trail to be crossed but it wasn't anything worth stressing about.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kuPkMg7pplI/VrgPe5_L4uI/AAAAAAAAD48/GtToOwsGFLM/s1600/IMG_20160202_120648.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kuPkMg7pplI/VrgPe5_L4uI/AAAAAAAAD48/GtToOwsGFLM/s320/IMG_20160202_120648.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow leopard paws prints on the way back</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
With this, our hopes of going to Neyrak dwindled.<br />
<br />
<b>Day 6 Tsomo campsite - Recon and back</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
A couple of volunteers went to check the same spot we came back from yesterday. The purpose was to check the feasibility of going ahead.<br />
I refrained from that duty since I had already gone once and wanted somebody to have a look and then, an opinion.<br />
<br />
I wasn't feeling too bright about it. I focused on enjoying the early morning fire and breakfast.<br />
<br />
The volunteers returned around breakfast time and informed us of what most of us dreaded.<br />
The river had melted and there was no possibility of going ahead.<br />
<br />
We made peace with the fact that going ahead of Tsomo isn't a possibility and started focusing on the way back. We didn't want to be in a situation where we get stranded at Tsomo.<br />
<br />
I had a sumptuous dinner and called it a day. I somehow got hold of better sleeping bags and felt really cozy in my tent. <br />
<br />
<b>Day 7 Tsomo to Shingra Yoma</b><br />
<br />
Today was the beginning of our trip back to Leh.<br />
Few people in the camp wanted to reach Leh a day earlier to cover other touristy places.<br />
Others were more inclined towards good ol' camping.<br />
<br />
The night before was significantly better and I had a good 8-10 hours sleep.<br />
Finally getting used to the cold.<br />
<br />
It seems the cold is increasing. My toothpaste and sunscreen froze and not just like froze, as in, get a little lumped, but, turned into an ice brick.<br />
<br />
As usual, we left the camp at around 9 AM and reached Shingra Yoma very early (45 minutes).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gth0hj6-dns/VrgJVXTZopI/AAAAAAAAD4M/KHLmufoQp1o/s1600/DSCF4561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="85" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gth0hj6-dns/VrgJVXTZopI/AAAAAAAAD4M/KHLmufoQp1o/s320/DSCF4561.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shingra Yoma Panorama</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We camped at a bend in the river bed. The camp had a good mood today and most of them spent all day sliding on the river with the porters sleds.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8_-EAvpwDCY/VrgIAxH67wI/AAAAAAAAD3s/H9pcAsgwq58/s1600/DSCF4522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8_-EAvpwDCY/VrgIAxH67wI/AAAAAAAAD3s/H9pcAsgwq58/s320/DSCF4522.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kitchen tent at Shingra Yoma</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I also got an opportunity to take out my camera and click a few pictures.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-auT7yaEL6Tk/VrgILQXgN8I/AAAAAAAAD3s/lNcWVoo8yN0/s1600/DSCF4530.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-auT7yaEL6Tk/VrgILQXgN8I/AAAAAAAAD3s/lNcWVoo8yN0/s320/DSCF4530.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Camped at strategic wind proof location</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Prior to getting dark, we took a walk along the frozen rivulet leading to a frozen waterfall. I'm sure it wasn't nowhere as close as the waterfall after Tibb but it sure made people smile.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JD7-ABw2GAI/VrgKXSoerHI/AAAAAAAAD4M/RIz_sSpXxuQ/s1600/DSCF4567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JD7-ABw2GAI/VrgKXSoerHI/AAAAAAAAD4M/RIz_sSpXxuQ/s320/DSCF4567.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5nGMpTWgo-4/VrgKaFZ79aI/AAAAAAAAD4M/GzzNpU2blHg/s1600/DSCF4572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5nGMpTWgo-4/VrgKaFZ79aI/AAAAAAAAD4M/GzzNpU2blHg/s320/DSCF4572.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "Frozen" "Waterfall"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HlpBlTcIBuI/VrgLkcVQz1I/AAAAAAAAD4g/zkqFPZlJljA/s1600/DSCF4586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HlpBlTcIBuI/VrgLkcVQz1I/AAAAAAAAD4g/zkqFPZlJljA/s320/DSCF4586.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pink headphones were bought by mistake. I don't like Pink. I thought it was red when I bought it.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I think I'm becoming the Chadar now. I've learned to deal with the cold, not physiologically but psychologically.<br />
Physiologically, my extremities hurt and it sucks.<br />
<br />
<b>Day 8 Shingra Yoma to Shingra Koma</b><br />
<br />
Another short walk day. I'm craving to exert myself physically but this isn't a summit trek. The only obstacle is to endure the cold and that makes it a tad bit difficult.<br />
<br />
There were a couple of side-mountain climbs that we had to make since the Chadar was broken at a couple of places.<br />
The second place being adjacent to a reasonably steep mountain. We climbed and bypassed without much sweat or maybe my sweat froze.<br />
<br />
Walking for 3 hours we reached our initial campsite, Shingra Koma.<br />
We camped at the same spot as the first day.<br />
<br />
People in our camp spent all day clicking pictures. I spent all day sunbathing, listening to music and wondering about the reality of the perception of reality.<br />
<br />
Being in the middle of a valley can be very intimidating. Huge mountains bullying you merely by just being there. Reminding you of your insignificance in the greater scheme of things.<br />
<br />
There is a routine in this way of life. You seek fire and warmth.<br />
The sight of wood gives you a sense of relief. I'm thinking of all the wooden things I can burn in my house in Delhi, for warmth.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8gJuGK5Ntmk/VrgPeacREXI/AAAAAAAAD44/t0oVH0qgWww/s1600/IMG_20160131_201900.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8gJuGK5Ntmk/VrgPeacREXI/AAAAAAAAD44/t0oVH0qgWww/s320/IMG_20160131_201900.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No feeling beats this feeling</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I'm the medieval man.<br />
<br />
<b>Day 9 Shingra Yoma to Leh</b><br />
<br />
The trek has ended. We didn't reach where we planned to go but that doesn't matter way too much to me. The view is more or less the same along the valley, the only difference being, the gigantic waterfall.<br />
<br />
This was the day for the customary group photographs, goodbyes and greetings. <br />
<br />
I packed my bags earlier than the rest of the group and walked towards Tilat Sumdo, where the cars would come and pick us up.<br />
This way, I got a tiny bit of a solo trek experience.<br />
<br />
I kept wondering throughout what I'm taking from this trek. Is there any level of catharsis or self learning?<br />
I sure did get a greater knowledge of what I can survive. I did encounter grand views and the strange phenomenon of walking on a frozen river.<br />
<br />
I came across a group of individuals with varied personalities and interests.<br />
Such vividness almost drowned the monotony of the two-shade Ladakhi landscape.<br />
<br />
I stopped dreaming when our bus arrived.<br />
<br />
The trek was over.<br />
<br />
We were accommodated at Singge palace hotel. It was quite luxurious. I spent the evening relaxing and watching Leicester City whip Manchester City and build a strong lead on top of the table.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sJZBeN6cVLE/VrgLuiDoyBI/AAAAAAAAD4g/AHw6ABunTvs/s1600/DSCF4596.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sJZBeN6cVLE/VrgLuiDoyBI/AAAAAAAAD4g/AHw6ABunTvs/s320/DSCF4596.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chilling at the hotel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-7106172101270717122016-01-08T23:16:00.002-08:002016-01-08T23:17:48.162-08:00Prelude : Chadar Trek<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Exactly 20 days from now I shall leave for Ladakh to finally do the Chadar trek.<br />
<br />
I'm doing this trek with my friends agency - Himalayan Explorers.<br />
<br />
<u><b>Itinerary :</b></u><br />
<br />
Day 1: Arrive in leh by morning flight (Day for acclimatization)<br />
Day 2: Leh to Tilat Sumdo (Private jeeps)<br />
Day 3: Trek from Tilat Sumdo to Shingra Koma<br />
Day 4: Trek from Shingra Koma to Tibb<br />
Day 5: Trek from Tibb to Nerak, 12 kms, 7 hrs.<br />
Day 6: Return from Nerak to Tibb, 7 hrs.<br />
Day 7: Trek from Tibb to Shingra Kogma.<br />
Day 8: Trek from Shingra Koma to Tilat Sumdo and drive back to Leh<br />
Day 9 : Return flight from Leh (early morning)<br />
<br />
This is the first time I'm going for a trek with an agency, most of my earlier Himalayan treks have been solo.<br />
<br />
<u><b>Physical prep :</b></u><br />
<br />
Although from what I've heard, the trek isn't physically taxing but rather mentally due to the extreme cold, I've been working out on improving my cardiovascular performance.<br />
I believe the mind and body are connected. When you train your body, you also train your mind to endure great adversity.<br />
<br />
As a result, I've mellowed down the weight training regime and increased the following :<br />
<br />
1. Cardio<br />
2. Core strengthening<br />
3. Stretching<br />
<br />
What used to be "Rest" days earlier are now dedicated to the above mentioned training.<br />
<br />
I've been having consistent back ache since the last few weeks, primarily due to bad posture while sitting and my long gaming sessions.<br />
I'm hoping to resolve that from stretching in the next few weeks.<br />
<br />
<u><b>Equipment Prep :</b></u><br />
<br />
Not much required equipment wise since I'm going with an agency and hoping they would take care of most of the camping gear.<br />
<br />
That being said, For personal requirements, I would be carrying the following :<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Down jacket (-4 degree Celsius rated)</li>
<li>Fleece jacket </li>
<li>Thermals</li>
<li>3 Track pants</li>
<li>3 Cotton full sleeve t shirts</li>
<li>Woolens - Cap, Gloves, socks</li>
<li>Sun protection - Sunglasses, Hat, Sunscreen (50 SPF, gel based)</li>
<li>Hiking stick</li>
<li>Food - Trail mix (dry fruits, nuts, crackers)</li>
<li>2 Litre hydration bladder </li>
<li>Camera with spare batteries/power bank</li>
<li>Toilet paper </li>
<li>Slippers</li>
<li>Basic medicines (in case I get separated from the group and need to patch myself up)</li>
<ul>
<li>Betadine</li>
<li>Bandages</li>
<li>Antibiotics</li>
<li>Diamox (In case I need to give it to someone)</li>
<li>Avomin</li>
<li>Antacids</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<br />
<u><b>Mental Prep</b></u><br />
<br />
I'm very relaxed right now, as opposed to the usual anxiousness prior to a big trek.<br />
This is mostly because I'm going through an agency, that agency is run by my friend, a guy who I've known for almost 15 years.<br />
<br />
<br />
But being a slave of my habits, I have some contingencies in mind.<br />
I will carry a map of the area and download GPS trails.<br />
<br />
To prepare for the cold, I'm wearing just a T shirt in the Delhi winter. It is nowhere close to the cold I'll face there but something is better than nothing, I guess.<br />
<br />
This seems too easy, no wonder so many people trek through agencies and not do their own research.<br />
<br />
___________________________________________________________________________________<br />
<br />
<br />
As usual, I would be writing journals on a daily basis of how my day went, what all trouble I ran into, yada yada..<br />
Not carrying a physical notebook this time, Its useless weight and I'll choose writing on my cellphone to make my life a tad bit easier. </div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-77456239906972327662015-12-04T21:03:00.000-08:002016-01-08T23:20:10.635-08:00Blast from the past : Beas Kund - June 2015<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I just wrapped up a trek to a high altitude lake in the heart of Himachal Pradesh called Beas Kund.<br />
It is this lake from which the Beas river originates.<br />
<br />
I did something that I usually don't. I reached out to people to join me.<br />
I changed my plans so that it can fit with theirs.<br />
So, a total of 6 people, we set off, together from Delhi for Manali and eventually, Beas Kund.<br />
<br />
<b>18th June, Thursday</b><br />
<br />
I worked from home and left early so that I could catch the 7:15 PM bus.<br />
I reached the meeting point very early. I sat there on the steps of the metro station where everyone was supposed to meet and pondered how the next few days would pan out.<br />
I pondered, but I wasn't worried.<br />
<br />
I ended up eventually meeting everyone at Majnu ka Tila bus station.<br />
After a very brief introduction, we took our respective seats.<br />
<br />
2 ladies, 2 brothers, me and a guy I knew from before.<br />
<br />
One lady, I had been in touch with. The other, was her friend, considerably older than the rest of us.<br />
The brothers looked like siblings even though they were cousins.<br />
<br />
The journey began, I kept staring out of the window to absorb as much of the surroundings as I possibly can.<br />
<br />
<b>19th June, Friday</b><br />
<br />
<br />
The bus took longer than expected to reach its destination.<br />
We reached Manali by around 11 AM after sweating it out in an AC bus.<br />
<br />
The guide we hired, Nimmat, came to the bus station to pick us up.<br />
He looked like a 23-24 year old guy, local, not much of a talker, a tad bit nervous.<br />
<br />
We reached the base village, Dhundi after dealing with the terrible Manali traffic.<br />
The place is crowded with tourists. I don't know what people like so much about just going to a hill station and doing "touristy" things like taking pictures in weird dresses etc.<br />
I choose not to judge but they sure as hell piss me off for some reason.<br />
<br />
Dhundi is not even a village, its just a remote place along the banks of Beas Kund river where some construction is going on for the Rohtang pass tunnel, heard they're building a 24x7x365 road till Leh.<br />
<br />
The cab dropped us at the river banks, this was where the hiking was supposed to begin.<br />
<br />
We walked for half an hour and then everybody took a break.<br />
The porters had not arrived and we had to wait for them.<br />
Everyone smoked a joint while I refrained.<br />
<br />
I like to be alert when I'm at a new place. The rest had a good time for about an hour.<br />
<br />
The guide didn't seem interested in making a move. I was suspicious of what he really wanted.<br />
<br />
After a while, when the porters still didn't turn up, we started walking towards the place where we were supposed to camp.<br />
<br />
This involved crossing a freezing river. I stepped in first and felt the cold needle like sensation of the water, numbing my feet at an alarming rate.<br />
<br />
After crossing the river, when we reached the place where we were supposed to camp, the guide left to check for the porters.<br />
Unfortunately, the porters showed him the middle finger and never turned up. He was in a fix. We were all in a fix.<br />
<br />
The elder lady insisted on canceling the trek and going back to Manali.<br />
I had not even understood whats going on and she had already made her plans for the weekend in Manali. I looked at others and wondered if they had the same opinion.<br />
<br />
She had successfully created a negative environment. Only me and the guy with the tattoo were wanting to give it a try.<br />
<br />
In my head, I started plans of doing it solo.<br />
The other lady looked confused and seemed like she had given up hope too.<br />
<br />
We all went back to Dhundi where more chaos ensued. The elder lady wanted to be dropped back to Solang. It was getting dark and she insisted that the guide accompany her.<br />
After mulling over every possible certainty, I decided to sleep the night at Dhundi and start hiking next day.<br />
Others, eventually agreed to the same approach, some reluctantly and some eagerly.<br />
<br />
The elder lady left with the guide. Taking her negativity along with her.<br />
She did rattle everyone's cages before she left though. Even going as far as ensuring us that the trek cannot be completed in the span of 2 days.<br />
<br />
We all rested, ate delicious food at the camp, others drank and then called it a day.<br />
<br />
<b>20th June, Saturday</b><br />
<br />
The morning was beautiful. I could get some decent rest after all that traveling.<br />
The temperature was very moderate, very comfortable.<br />
<br />
I clicked as many pictures as I could of the beautiful landscape.<br />
It was like a painting.. the river flowing from the mountains, snow capped peaks in the background.<br />
The first rays of the sun hitting the peak... that warm amber glow.. that mild breeze.<br />
I might have taken pictures but I only need to close my eyes and think about it to travel to that place instantly.<br />
<br />
The porter didn't turn up today as well. Well, he did turn up but received a scornful dose from all of us. The lady in particular was furious at his inaction the previous day.<br />
<br />
We decided to not depend on the porter and complete the hike in a day itself.<br />
It was quite doable and all we needed to carry was food.<br />
<br />
We all left the unnecessary stuff in our tents and started hiking.<br />
<br />
I carried a heavy bag nevertheless. It was mostly water (3L), warm clothing and food.<br />
<br />
We set off from Dhundi at 7:40 AM and reached Bakerthach (the meadows) by somewhere around 9:45 AM.<br />
<br />
Bakerthach was the camping place for the Mountaineering Institute - ABVIMAS.<br />
<br />
We had to cross many streams.. fresh out of the glacier.. cold as hell.<br />
Thanks to the practice day before, we all crossed them without a sweat.<br />
<br />
We set off from Bakerthach around 10:30 AM after taking rest and started ascending towards Beas kund.<br />
<br />
There was a lot of glacier walk involved which was fun. I dropped my sunglasses somewhere and lost them but the guy with the tattoos lend me his spare one.<br />
Walking on the glacier without sunglasses can kill your eyes.<br />
<br />
After crossing the glacier and crossing yet another stream, we reached the most difficult part of the trek, the moraines.<br />
<br />
Huge boulders field which is very difficult to traverse. The boulders sometimes move as you step on them and can destabilize you. It is up to your best judgement to decide which boulder will probably not move.<br />
<br />
The experience was very enriching. I had never climbed a terrain like this before.<br />
We stopped midway and saw a beautiful circular rainbow. I'll always remember looking at it.<br />
<br />
We reached beas kund at around 12:15 PM.<br />
We actually needed to descend quite a bit to reach there.<br />
It was a vast plain area, mostly glaciers, surrounded by mountains on all side.<br />
<br />
The lake itself was frozen.<br />
We sat down a bit away from the lake to refuel and relax.<br />
I remember taking a power nap.<br />
<br />
We relaxed till 1:20 PM and then started our journey back to base.<br />
But not before clicking countless pictures and absorbing everything.<br />
<br />
The river, the hanging clouds, the endless glaciers, the waterfalls. Fits the description of paradise in my opinion.<br />
<br />
We started descending, which was as expected, a lot more easier.<br />
<br />
Reached Dhundi at around 4 pm. Right in time for Tea.<br />
<br />
The trek was complete.<br />
<br />
The entire group was happy, smiles all around, jokes all around.<br />
<br />
<b>21st June, Sunday</b><br />
<br />
We left Dhundi via a pick up truck sort of vehicle at 11 AM.<br />
<br />
Reached Manali and had food at a cafe known as "Lazy dog".<br />
It had a nice view of the river Beas. Food was expensive and not that great.<br />
<br />
We met the elder lady and told her of our "achievement".<br />
She pretended to congratulate us.<br />
<br />
In the evening, we left Manali for Delhi.<br />
Bidding adieu to the mountains and saying hello to 'Business as usual'<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-62762687342673137732015-11-09T07:38:00.002-08:002015-11-09T07:38:21.382-08:00Blast from the past : Roopkund Lake Trek Oct 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Day 1 - 26th September - Pune to Delhi flight</span></span></h4>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The journey began on a very sour note.
I had intense stomach pain.<br />
I hadn't had food since afternoon. </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Felt so much abdominal pain that I felt delusional. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I thought about abandoning the trek and going to a hospital but I held on. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I kept sweating profusely and the airport guard saw it as "suspicious". </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It wasn't that hot. It wasn't hot at all. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Fortunately, the problem auto-resolved after having food. I still felt weak and disoriented. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Forgot toiletries, cell charger and ear phones in Pune.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The flight landed on schedule and I took an auto to Anand Vihar Terminal. </span></span></div>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Day 2 - 27th September - Delhi to Kathgodam and beyond</span></span></h4>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I
reached way before boarding time, as a result of which I had to sleep
on the floor in the waiting room, which wasn't as bad as my previous
experiences with railway waiting rooms (mice and all).</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I made a pillow out of my thick cotton jacket and slept for an hour or so. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Boarded the train on time. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I reached Kathgodam around 11:35 AM. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">On reaching, I hired a cab (alto) to Almora. </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The cabs go only as far as Almora even though I had to go further. </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The driver was a very enthusiastic guy, drove pretty much like I do in Pune. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The problem was, Garhwal is no Pune and there are ghats. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">He had a brand new Maruti Alto 800 which he drove like a Ferrari. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Picked up and dropped many people on the way, everyone seemed to know him. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">That's the thing about remote places. Everyone knows everyone. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br />
Thanks to his enthusiasm to drop me on time, I puked all the way to Garud due to motion sickness.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Stopped at a place near Bhimtal to have lunch .</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It was delicious, Mutter Paneer and cheap too! (35INR) </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I felt really weak and had fears creeping in my head. I could eat nothing on 27th.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I finally landed at a remote village called Garud and spent the night in a VERY shady looking room (it was cheap, 150 bucks)</span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EN0J7NN7LhE/VkCz7yYXZgI/AAAAAAAADrA/AqBxR4H8Oik/s1600/DSC00926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EN0J7NN7LhE/VkCz7yYXZgI/AAAAAAAADrA/AqBxR4H8Oik/s320/DSC00926.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>Expenses in INR : <br />
</b>Delhi auto to anvt 400<br />
Tip to irctc 20<br />
Haldwani to almora 250<br />
Food 50+40+10+57<br />
Almora to garud 150<br />
Room at garud 150 <br />
Food at garud 60<br />
Toiletries 90<br />
Charger 80<br />
Avomin 18</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Total expenses this day : 1375</span></span></b></div>
<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span></b>
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Day 3 - 28th September - Garud to Gwaldam to Tharali to Lohajung to Wan </span></span></h4>
<h4>
</h4>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Woke up to a chilly morning at Garud. Garud is a nice peaceful village/town. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">There were sweet shops and departmental stores on the road I was waiting on for the bus. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Uttarakhand roadways bus from Garud to Gwaldam got canceled. </span></span> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Consequently, I traveled in multiple shared jeeps from Garud to Gwaldam to Dewal </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">and then to Wan</span>.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Thankfully, I didn't puke today. The drivers were not insane this time. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">On reaching Wan, fixed guide cum porter @ 660 per day including sleeping bag.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The guide's name - Khilap Singh which I mistook for Khilao Singh.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Funny thing, he looked really hungry. Maybe that's why. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I
hiked very little today, around 30 mins to a place called "Rankadhar",
stayed in a small remote lodge there, owned and maintained by Khilap and
his brother Umrao.</span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hMuRvmW9Z0Y/VkC0mvQjqBI/AAAAAAAADrY/0V7uVxJSYR8/s1600/DSC00930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hMuRvmW9Z0Y/VkC0mvQjqBI/AAAAAAAADrY/0V7uVxJSYR8/s320/DSC00930.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TMYqPiZpCso/VkC0lS1SplI/AAAAAAAADrQ/JxIUrdZOo0g/s1600/DSC00938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TMYqPiZpCso/VkC0lS1SplI/AAAAAAAADrQ/JxIUrdZOo0g/s320/DSC00938.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3Y7va8ABG2A/VkC0hhQqf-I/AAAAAAAADrI/r-yqHa4fjIM/s1600/DSC00939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3Y7va8ABG2A/VkC0hhQqf-I/AAAAAAAADrI/r-yqHa4fjIM/s320/DSC00939.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z44Vmduipqg/VkC0q-SmEjI/AAAAAAAADrg/U1lm-SnKhHI/s1600/DSC00943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z44Vmduipqg/VkC0q-SmEjI/AAAAAAAADrg/U1lm-SnKhHI/s320/DSC00943.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Very
homely, there was a hall with 5 beds. I slept in the kitchen because
the hall was over run with people smoking weed and I didn't want to become a
hot box user. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>Expenses in INR:</b><br />Jeep to Gwaldam - 50 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Had tea - 7 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Had breakfast at gwaldam 60 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Galdam to tharali 50 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Tharali to Dewal 30 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Bought Sun screen at dewal 80<br />
Dewal to Wan 100 <br />Food at dewal 15 </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Food at wan 60</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Total expense for today 432</span></b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Day 4 - 29th September - Wan (2520m) to Bedni Bugyal (3354m) :</span></span></h4>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I had a peaceful nights sleep but super chilly morning at Rankadhar.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Got freshened up, had tea, lots of tea. People of that area drink tea a lot. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I was about to tell them that tea causes dehydration and might cause them cramps but hey, they're smoking weed till the top. <br />Tea is not going to bother them. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I
had the plan in my head to hike till Pathar Nachauni today. It seemed
doable, though I had little idea of what doable meant at this altitude. I had no idea of what lied ahead in terms of difficulty. All I had was the will to reach the top. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The plan was to maintain a steady pace. Listen to my body and focus my mind on walking. No sprints just steady decent pace. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Slow and steady. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I had a very decent speed as per my guide.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">We started trekking at 815 AM and reached Bedni Bugyal at 1145 AM. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">3 hours 30 minutes was very decent for this amount of distance at this altitude. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I frequently applied a lot of sunscreen to not get sun burned this time (like I did in Sandakphu). </span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aWQM9sgLet8/VkC2l3LoZ9I/AAAAAAAADrs/2HPm-D5nD9Y/s1600/DSC00967.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">What this resulted in was pictures in which I'm looking like a ghost with powder on his face. </span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aWQM9sgLet8/VkC2l3LoZ9I/AAAAAAAADrs/2HPm-D5nD9Y/s1600/DSC00967.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aWQM9sgLet8/VkC2l3LoZ9I/AAAAAAAADrs/2HPm-D5nD9Y/s320/DSC00967.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The great ghost of Roopkund</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Sat and ate biscuits at Ghairoli Patal while my guide smoked up merrily. </span></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6R7-RsyNdho/VkC2tJw11EI/AAAAAAAADr4/BkboCH7ro38/s1600/DSC00977.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6R7-RsyNdho/VkC2tJw11EI/AAAAAAAADr4/BkboCH7ro38/s320/DSC00977.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The guide insisted we camp at Bedni since there would be problems finding huts in Pathar Nachauni that day. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I agreed but kept doubting his intentions. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I had all the time in the world to reach Pathar Nachauni.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Took lot of breaks on the way.<br />
Steep incline with a level walk at the end.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I spent all day just wandering in the endless meadows of Bedni Bugyal.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Clicking lots of pictures of the landscape, selfies and what not. </span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1Evb3L2HSZs/VkC209KtFZI/AAAAAAAADsA/9lDjDXe-UoA/s1600/DSC00986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1Evb3L2HSZs/VkC209KtFZI/AAAAAAAADsA/9lDjDXe-UoA/s320/DSC00986.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ghanta!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ygvdm9NCri4/VkC27DpRK_I/AAAAAAAADsI/INum3B_rfu4/s1600/DSC00997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ygvdm9NCri4/VkC27DpRK_I/AAAAAAAADsI/INum3B_rfu4/s320/DSC00997.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a toilet tent. Talk about Royal shit!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PHchPRp_vL0/VkC28J4wS0I/AAAAAAAADsQ/Z5LPRGU4jpQ/s1600/DSC01001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PHchPRp_vL0/VkC28J4wS0I/AAAAAAAADsQ/Z5LPRGU4jpQ/s320/DSC01001.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thank you auto-timer!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hQCscUQDyj0/VkC3ARJMZmI/AAAAAAAADsY/763vc870B4o/s1600/DSC01020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hQCscUQDyj0/VkC3ARJMZmI/AAAAAAAADsY/763vc870B4o/s320/DSC01020.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cozy in the tent @ Bedni</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The next days plan was a bit spectacular.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Bedni to Pathar Nachauni to Roopkund to Pathar Nachauni. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I felt up for it.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>Expenses:</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Paid rankaghanti lodge 180 including dinner and breakfast</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Total expenses : 180 bucks </span></span></b></div>
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<h4>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Day 5 - 30th September - Bedni Bugyal (3354m) to Pathar Nachauni (3658m) to Bhagwabasa (</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">4375m) to Roopkund (4844m) back to Pathar Nachauni (3658m)</span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The night before was really tough.<br />
My sleeping bag was inadequate and some animal was shaking my tent.<br />
I dreaded a bear.<br />
It was a dog.<br /><br />
Had breakfast which consisted of Potato dish with Tandoori Roti. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br />There were a bunch of Americans with me in the dhaba. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">They were hardcore trekkers, had plans to trek continuously for a month. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I told them of my earlier trek, Sandakphu and they were pretty impressed. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br />I bid adieu to them, wished them luck and continued my journey. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br />Reached Pathar Nachauni and left for kalu vinayak.<br />The climb was very steep and I had to take a lot of breaks. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I kept drinking water every time I stopped to take a breather.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s4QLYNRGYnI/VkC4pZDIn7I/AAAAAAAADsw/3UNZ9e2iYVA/s1600/DSC01025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s4QLYNRGYnI/VkC4pZDIn7I/AAAAAAAADsw/3UNZ9e2iYVA/s320/DSC01025.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TLcURFI9t34/VkC4ux9c_oI/AAAAAAAADs4/Rf1wcjbAZd0/s1600/DSC01038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TLcURFI9t34/VkC4ux9c_oI/AAAAAAAADs4/Rf1wcjbAZd0/s320/DSC01038.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just KEEP DRINKING WATER. H2O. O for Oxygen.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Kalu vinayak to bhagwabasa was a stroll. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It
had started snowing by the time I reached Kalu Vinayak. I felt a little
bit of AMS but it went away soon as I kept drinking water. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Bhagwabasa was completely covered in snow and the temperature dipped pretty sharply.</span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xjSc4fpRcqU/VkC45FWgfwI/AAAAAAAADtM/QfU2oA7P5OM/s1600/DSC01052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xjSc4fpRcqU/VkC45FWgfwI/AAAAAAAADtM/QfU2oA7P5OM/s320/DSC01052.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kalu Vinayak, First encounter with Snow here. Puffy face due to Peripheral Edema. Its an AMS thing. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It was the coldest I've ever felt in my life. There was snow everywhere. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
From Bhagwabasa, Roopkund lake was 3 km.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I had just a couple of packets of biscuits and moved on for the final push. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I greatly underestimated the next 3 kms. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br />
It started snowing heavily.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br />
I felt like I'm dying at one point.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It felt like I had made my final mistake. This happened when I was half a kilometer from the summit.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">We all have those moments in life when we stop doing what we're doing and ask ourselves.. "Why exactly am I doing this?" </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I had this moment there and I didn't have an answer. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I felt like I'm in some Hollywood flick where people get stranded in Alaska or Siberia. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">There was nothing but snow for as far as I can see.</span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cDW503hpNeY/VkC5QCfW8XI/AAAAAAAADt0/oX6tlm8coko/s1600/DSC01065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cDW503hpNeY/VkC5QCfW8XI/AAAAAAAADt0/oX6tlm8coko/s320/DSC01065.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow, Snow all around</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I had plenty of self doubt then<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">.<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I pulled myself forward with all my might, like never before. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Was it the cold? Was it the height? </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">No, I could breathe fine. Wasn't the height. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">My mind drifted. I overcame it<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> by focusing <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">really hard on <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">my objective. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">r</span>eached <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">R</span>oopkund at 4:15pm which is very late. Ideally, one should be reaching Roopkun<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">d earl<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">y morning to get the best<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> views<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> but I <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">had other ideas. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Started <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">descending after taking a few really <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">cool <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">pictures : </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k-btAt0PPWw/VkC5Tseo9MI/AAAAAAAADt8/Qv2z_UF6Okk/s1600/DSC01068.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k-btAt0PPWw/VkC5Tseo9MI/AAAAAAAADt8/Qv2z_UF6Okk/s320/DSC01068.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The longest 0.5 Km of my life. I'm visible exhausted. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9tvDCnbJG3c/VkC5iP_lDVI/AAAAAAAADuU/w-sjkZMqmnY/s1600/DSC01090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9tvDCnbJG3c/VkC5iP_lDVI/AAAAAAAADuU/w-sjkZMqmnY/s320/DSC01090.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heaven like view coming back from Roopkund</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7enfRqQaBIo/VkC5chIfHEI/AAAAAAAADuM/4vABNTjoJPE/s1600/DSC01081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7enfRqQaBIo/VkC5chIfHEI/AAAAAAAADuM/4vABNTjoJPE/s320/DSC01081.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can you spot me in the background?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rQmCktma1IU/VkC5oYzbb2I/AAAAAAAADuc/RLzhkeSPd-c/s1600/DSC01092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rQmCktma1IU/VkC5oYzbb2I/AAAAAAAADuc/RLzhkeSPd-c/s320/DSC01092.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back at Roopkund</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S_NjbBVhUqo/VkC8BbTTodI/AAAAAAAADu0/symIRrg8FGQ/s1600/DSC01086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S_NjbBVhUqo/VkC8BbTTodI/AAAAAAAADu0/symIRrg8FGQ/s320/DSC01086.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Rocky moment!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3I9iPNrsw3s/VkC5YjEJFvI/AAAAAAAADuE/He12N9i5spI/s1600/DSC01073.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3I9iPNrsw3s/VkC5YjEJFvI/AAAAAAAADuE/He12N9i5spI/s320/DSC01073.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These are human bones</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /> </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />Descended to <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">B</span>hagwabasa by 5 pm<br />
Reached <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">P</span>athar <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">N</span>achauni by 7:30 pm<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> thanks to the torch light. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">When <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I reached Bhagwabas<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">a, <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">e</span></span></span>very other trekker <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">there </span>was surprised I did it.<br />
Bedni to <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">R</span>oopkund and back to <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">P</span>athar <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">N</span>achauni in a day.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The other guides and locals had written me off<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">, told me its not doable for a city boy. </span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I was feeling proud of myself but the <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">hallucinations </span>brought some things to my notice.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The endless <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">snow covered terrain </span></span>gave me <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">an idea </span>of what loneliness might look like if it were to be visually represented. </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">A foggy cold place with nobody to help. No sound. No stimulus. </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Expenses : </span></b></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Paid for food and tent at Bedni - 500 bucks</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Day 6 - 1st October - Return to Bedni Bugyal - Rankadhar </span></span></h4>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I started descending to Bedni Bugyal at around 9:15 AM. </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">h</span>ad plenty of selfie sessions and a stopover at Ghairoli Patal.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Met a lot of trekker who gave me hi-fives and salutes for completing Roopkund. <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I can understand their point of view. They had been toiling for days to reach where I was just coming back from. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I felt proud of myself. <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">No high in the world can substitute this. The high <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">of success!</span></span></span></span> </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Descended to bedni bugyal had a cup of tea and then left for wan .</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">On the way, I had forgotten there is still considerable climb to come till Rankadhar. </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">On top of it all, it started raining cats and dogs. Got drenched and felt extremely cold. </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Survived it, reached Rankadhar and took halt for the night. </span></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YoTpeWNJzBM/VkC9Fd-AcXI/AAAAAAAADu8/iB--1g2nDQk/s1600/DSC01101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YoTpeWNJzBM/VkC9Fd-AcXI/AAAAAAAADu8/iB--1g2nDQk/s320/DSC01101.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drenched, drained, numb</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The trek was over.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I did it. All by myself. If anything changed with this experience, it would be a tiny bit of increased self respect. </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>Expenses : </b> </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Paid 500 @ pathar nachauni for
Tea, dinner and breakfast</span></span></div>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Day 7 - 2nd October - Wan to Delhi</span></span></h4>
<h4>
</h4>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Descended down to wan by 8 am. Boarded shared jeep till Dewal.</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br />Took multiple shared jeeps from there to </span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Tharali bend to </span>Karnaprayag to Rishikesh<br /> </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>Expenses in INR: </b> </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Paid guide (2400 for 4 days) +lodging and food at Rankadhar (250) + sleeping bag rent
(200) = 2850 <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span><br />
Paid jeep 150 for wan to tharali bend<br />
Paid jeep 100 for tharali to karanprayag<br />
Food at karanprayag 70<br />
Jeep to rishikesh 330<br />
Dinner at rishikesh 300<br />
Bus to Delhi 700<br />
Food at stop over at Muzaffarnagar 216<br /></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i><u><b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></b></u></i></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i><u><b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Total trek expense wan to wan = 3410</span></b></u></i></span><br />
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i><u><b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></b></u></i></span>
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Day 8 - 3rd October - Delhi stay</span></span></h4>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Reached Delhi, crashed at <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">a friends </span>place.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Spent an entire day gaming and listening to him explaining his work. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">He also forcibly took me to a small school reunion.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I think people there could make out my disinterest. I had no intentions in hiding it either. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I do admit. I was feeling weird being in civilization<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> and </span>around people. </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><b>Expenses:</b> </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Flavoured milk 40<br />
Food at cp 400<br />
Metro 40<br />
Iced tea 50</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Day 9 - 4th October - Delhi to Mumbai</span></span></h4>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">My journey ended.<br />
I boarded the train to Mumbai.<br />
Something that felt so difficult had been achieved with relative ease.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br />The train coach I was in, was full of kids. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Also, since it was a chair car, it was hellishly difficult to sleep. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Also, </span>the train AC was so damn strong that I had to put my jacket back on<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">.</span> In Delhi. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Everything said and done, I have learned things about myself.<br />
I feel it's not enough. I need to learn more. I need more answers. <br />
I feel like I'll find something concrete eventually. Ther<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">e has been some <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">level of cathar<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">sis but <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">more questions than answers. </span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I shall keep looking. </span></span></span></span><br /><b><br />Expenses</b></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Dinner in train 140<br />
Auto to station 80<br />
Biscuits 55<br />
Tea 10</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"></span></span></div>
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Day 10 - Mumbai to Pune:</span></span></h4>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Reached Mumbai and left for Pune.<br /><b><br />Expenses:</b></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">
</span></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Volvo - 500</span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Auto from Pune station to Viman Nagar - 100 </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /><br /><i><u><b>
Total trip expense = 9018</b></u></i></span></span></div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-33297010671718391552015-11-09T06:49:00.001-08:002016-01-19T09:34:24.149-08:00Blast from the past : Sandakphu Trek April 2014<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br>
Sandakphu peak in West Bengal.<br>
<br>
It is situated in a national park called "Singalila" and the trail is often the Ind-Nepal border.<br>
<br>
<u><b>Day 1 :</b></u><br>
<br>
After bidding adieu to my sister's family, I set out from Darjeeling for a place called Maneybhanjyang.<br>
There is a shared taxi service from opposite old supermarket in Darjeeling for a fee of INR 50 for Indians to Maneybhanjyang.<br>
<br>
I met a couple in the shared taxi.<br>
John
- An ex-german military person. Social worker now. Had spent 10 years
in the military, quit to become a life guard and now works as a social
worker in India with his girlfriend Catherine.<br>
Catherine - A
circus artist, now a director, is also a social worker and helps slum
kids realize their potential by teaching them circus nuances.<br>
<br>
They were really experienced hikers/trekkers and guided me a lot during the course of the trek.<br>
<br>
I
figured it would be also wise to share the guide with them, since then I
would have to pay less than if I take a guide for my own self. Taking a guide is Mandatory for Sandakphu trek since it lies in a national park.<br>
<br>
Maneybhanjyang is an hours drive away from Darjeeling.<br>
<br>
Its a very simple village. I think the only source of income here is us, tourists.<br>
We had food there, mostly momos and chowmein. The kind of food you stereotype north east India with. <br>
<u><br></u>
<u><b>The initial climb - Day 1 (13 Kms) :</b></u><br>
<br>
I started ascending from Maneybhanjyang to a place called Meghma at 12 noon and then took our first halt at Lamayudhra.<br>
The trail was a jeep road, except it wasn't a tar road but a road made out of boulders.<br>
It was steep. I'd say 60 degrees inclination for a distance of what seemed like 10 kms (Actual 5 kms).<br>
<br>
Lamayudhra was a collection of a couple of huts. I had maggi there and a protein bar I carried.<br>
<br>
After another steep climb of 5 kms we reached Meghma.<br>
<br>
The next check-point and the last of the day was Tonglu. It was supposed to be the place where we halt for the night.<br>
<br>
On the way, I saw a border check post where John and Catherine had to make entries for their respective passports.<br>
<br>
My
shoulder had started hurting me till then. It was my bag. Poorly built
for hiking and I could feel it biting into the muscles on the back of my
shoulders.<br>
It was so terrible that I was not able to reach out without experiencing agonizing pain.<br>
<br>
With a little rest though (10 minutes), I started walking towards Tonglu.<br>
<br>
What happened next was something I had never read anywhere on the internet.<br>
A hailstorm.<br>
<br>
I only had a jacket and a tshirt on and my jacket was just a windsheeter.<br>
Initially it rained, then it rained heavily and then it hailed.<br>
<br>
I could feel my body freezing and both my legs were badly cramped from the thighs.<br>
Every step was pain.<br>
Also, by now, I had reached an altitude of 3000+ metres.<br>
I had difficulty in breathing.<br>
<br>
I kept going on. Staying at one place wasn't a viable option.<br>
<br>
I reached Tonglu far behind the guide and John/Catherine.<br>
<br>
Only to find that the place is infested with Nepalese, in the village to celebrate their New years day.<br>
<br>
We had to walk another 2 kms to a place called Tumling.<br>
Right after the board for the entry of Singalila National park, there is a hut run by a single family.<br>
<br>
We crashed into that place for the night.<br>
It was a wooden hut and there was a seperate kitchen with the tradition "chulha".<br>
<br>
One of my fondest memories of this trip is curling besides this chulha trying to stretch my painful shoulders.<br>
We had dal, chawal, spinach, tea and lots of hot water there.<br>
<br>
I slept fine that night. Though, the shoulder kept bothering me.<br>
<br>
Woke
up early at 5 am next morning to catch a glimpse of the sunrise but
there wasn't much to see besides that due to the heavy fog.<br>
<br>
We had breakfast and started moving on to the next destination.<br>
<br>
Total bill was : 455 INR per head including the stay, the dinner, the breakfast and the tea(s).<br>
<br>
<u><b>Reality Check - Day 2 (23 Kms) : </b></u><br>
<br>
Today was a long trekking day and lots of ascending to the peak called "Sandakphu"<br>
Sandakphu is at a height of 3656 m (12000 ft approx)<br>
<br>
On a short distance from Tumling, we had to descend a little to a place called "Jhaubari"<br>
While descending I managed to catch a glimpse of the great Kanchejunga peak.<br>
<br>
Clicked as many pictures as I could.<br>
<br>
It
was a pain filled day too. My shoulders were screaming for help and
often I had to stop and unload my baggage for a while to avoid complete
muscle spasms.<br>
<br>
I was struggling the entire day today.<br>
<br>
My mind completely shut itself off at one point and all I was doing was walking like a brain dead zombie.<br>
I think that helped. No thought of giving up ever crossed my mind.<br>
It was never an option.<br>
<br>
I stopped at Jhaubari for a food break. Only Maggi.<br>
Thats all you get there.<br>
<br>
Started ascending towards Kalipokhri.<br>
The gradient was getting steep now and I was running out of breath again.<br>
I followed the stop and go technique.<br>
<br>
Whenever my heart beat used to get violently rapid, I took breathers.<br>
<br>
On reaching Kalipokhri, I was so exhausted that I could faint.<br>
I didn't, I put up a brave poker face but John and Catherine were able to deduce my exact physical state.<br>
<br>
They insisted on taking my bag for a while looking at my condition.<br>
<br>
I refused but they insisted too much and I gave in.<br>
<br>
Wondering what their intentions were.<br>
Altruism ?<br>
Or wanting to reach the peak early?<br>
<br>
I'm sure it was the latter.<br>
<br>
I knew I would make it to the peak anyway. Yes, it would have been like crucifixion but that's what I expected. I didn't expect this to be a walk in the park anyway.<br>
<br>
So, Catherine took my bag, I took hers.<br>
Really nice bag. Good lumbar support. No sideways bulk.<br>
Perfectly aligned with the spine.<br>
<br>
Walking was relatively easy after that.<br>
<br>
We stopped at Kalipokhri with light rain outside.<br>
Had the most pathetic chowmein I've ever had in my life for a whooping 120 INR.<br>
<br>
After that, we set off for Sandakphu peak.<br>
The climb was steep but I was doing better now with the better bag.<br>
<br>
After
a long, arduous session of continuous climbing and after passing
Bikheybhanjang (Valley of poisonous flowers), Sandakphu peak was in
sight.<br>
That was somewhat encouraging.<br>
<br>
The altitude was taking its toll on me though.<br>
I have spent the most of my life in sea level areas.<br>
Delhi and Pune.<br>
<br>
This was a new experience for me. My breaths were shorter and breathing took substantial effort.<br>
I slowed down as we came closer to the peak.<br>
By the time I was reaching the peak, I was crawling.<br>
<br>
I made it somehow and sat down at the bench there for a while.<br>
<br>
Unluckily, all accommodations there were booked since April is trekking season.<br>
We had to walk another 2 kms to an isolated area in Sandakphu with a hut.<br>
<br>
The huts owner was away, so the locals had occupied it and were renting it out.<br>
I stayed in the upper pier.<br>
John and Catherine got a room on the ground floor.<br>
<br>
I had maggi and then I tried sleeping but to no avail.<br>
It was too cold and I was poorly equipped to deal with that weather.<br>
<br>
Woke up at dinner time, had yak meat, rice and dal.<br>
<br>
After
a chat with the guide, decided to complete the Phalut circuit as well
since going down to Rimbik on the 16th of April wasn't a great idea.<br>
There would be no vehicles due to the elections and I wouldn't be able to go back to Darjeeling from Rimbik. <br>
<br>
Didn't sleep all night after that (not because of the food).<br>
It was astonishingly cold and the noises the wind made on the upper section made it impossible for me to sleep.<br>
I spent all night rubbing my chest to stay alive.<br>
<br>
<br>
<u><b><br></b></u>
<u><b>Acceptance - Day 3 (21 kms)</b></u><br>
<br>
The guide told me that today would be a level walk day.<br>
<br>
He lied.<br>
<br>
There is nothing like a level walk in the mountains.<br>
You're either descending or ascending.<br>
<br>
We initially descended, which somewhat made me happy.<br>
I had got my bag back from Catherine. Apparently, she had a tough time with it too.<br>
<br>
After walking for an eternity, there was a considerable ascent to Phalut.<br>
<br>
I had knee pain now.<br>
<br>
But my mind was processing pain differently.<br>
It didn't matter how badly it hurt.<br>
<br>
The real question was : Are you capable to walk?<br>
The answer was : "Painfully but yes"<br>
<br>
Only the "yes" mattered.<br>
<br>
I had accepted pain as a part of the journey and it wasn't bothering me anymore.<br>
<br>
I hobbled my way to Phalut by 4 pm only to find the trekkers hut fully occupied.<br>
<br>
What followed was a lot of confusion.<br>
<br>
I went to the SSB camp 2 kms ahead to seek refuge but they refused owing to their inability to provide food to me. It was against the norms.<br>
<br>
I came back with a sleeping back from the SSB and spoke to a few Bengalis who were IT professionals too.<br>
They offered me a bed!<br>
<br>
After a dinner of dal-chawal, I slept like a baby.<br>
<br>
Total cost : 370 (100 for the "bed" + 130 for dinner + 140 other food) <br>
<u><b><br></b></u>
<u><b>Day 4 - The descent (24 kms)</b></u><br>
<br>
The next day was from Phalut to Rammam.<br>
<br>
It was mostly a descent with a little bit ascent towards Rammam.<br>
<br>
Contrary to what I thought, the descend was also a problem.<br>
It was too steep a descend and me, with a huge ass bag and crappy shoes had a hard, hard time.<br>
<br>
The soil was loose and you had to be alert of your every step.<br>
<br>
At one point I started accelerating beyond my control but the hiking stick I brought saved the day. <br>
<br>
After a lot of knee abuse. I reached Gorkhey in the afternoon.<br>
John and Catherine were far behind.<br>
They were going at their own pace, clicking pictures.<br>
<br>
I had lunch there.<br>
Super oily aloo parathas, a coke.<br>
John had told me coke is good to replenish blood sugar.<br>
Its pathetic health wise normally but in this scenarios the combination of excess caffeine + sugar works in the trekkers favour.<br>
<br>
There was a river in Gorkhey. Gorkhey river (duh!).<br>
I dipped and washed my feet in the ice cold water and filled up my water reserves.<br>
The cold water helped with the accumulated soreness. <br>
<br>
On the way to Rammam we could see beautiful cedar forests and lots of yaks.<br>
<br>
It seemed like a grass carpeted paradise.<br>
<br>
We reached Rammam with me leading the crew.<br>
For some reasons, I was rejuvenated and had added strength.<br>
<br>
There were no accommodation problems with Rammam and I occupied a nice room.<br>
Had tea.<br>
Played football with the local kids.<br>
Scored a goal of the 5-a-side style penalty shootout. Best football match I've ever played, experience wise. <br>
<br>
I was feeling fulfilled, calm and in my elements. <br>
<br>
In
the evening, the Bengali guys suggested a campfire and everyone
gathered around it and had a lot of political, philosophical and even
hiking discussions.<br>
<br>
There was a round of introductions (I hate that).<br>
I spoke minimal about me. "Guy from Delhi, works in Pune, likes trekking".<br>
<br>
Had
a discussion with Martin from Czech republic about the efficacy of Yoga
and why Indians aren't interested in it while the western world is
going crazy about it.<br>
<br>
It was all good.<br>
<br>
<u><b>Day 5 - The cakewalk (19 kms) </b></u><br>
<br>
From Rammam to Srikhola to Rimbik is a steady descent of 19 kms.<br>
<br>
I had initial plans to reach Sirikhola and take a jeep from there.<br>
<br>
I started my hike at 7 in the morning and reached Sirikhola by 8-8:30.<br>
<br>
<br>
Since I made it so early, I decided to go all the way and complete the trek till Rimbik.<br>
<br>
This descent was comparatively easy then the one on Day 4.<br>
<br>
I reached Rimbik by 11:20 AM and sat in a hotel waiting for the jeep to Darjeeling.<br>
<br>
The trek.. was over.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br></div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-79519857327090702872015-10-05T00:38:00.001-07:002015-10-05T08:33:35.886-07:00Markha Valley trek - long circuit <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day 1 Delhi to Leh</span></b></div>
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I set out for the airport the night before. I thought I'd sleep in the airport and conveniently take the flight further. </div>
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Bad move. Sleeping on domestic terminal is not convenient at all. I don't know why I even did that. Maybe just nervous about the trip. </div>
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Anyhow, the flight itself was an experience in itself. The view from the window looks grand prior to landing. I was able to click many pictures and videos before the air hostess requested me to not do so. To have the best view, make sure you have the "F" seat. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perks of taking the "F" seat</td></tr>
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Leh, first impression is a sleepy town. Shops open late.. Hardly anybody on the streets. <br />
I bought Gloves and a torch for the trek. In my opinion, I'm fully equipped now. </div>
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I spoke to a few people about my plans to do Markha Valley solo. Well, let's just say that they kind of put me into panic mode. </div>
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Told me about bad weather, tigers, confusing routes. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vIqkyQdz6UY/VhJ4w1-a67I/AAAAAAAAC88/HDsWSQaU3PM/s1600/DSCF4243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vIqkyQdz6UY/VhJ4w1-a67I/AAAAAAAAC88/HDsWSQaU3PM/s320/DSCF4243.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apple tree at the hotel in Leh - Bimla Hotel</td></tr>
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However, I've decided to go ahead on my own. Use my judgement to the best and make sensible decisions. </div>
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If it snows, the trail would disappear. I would have no clue where to go. </div>
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I have a million apprehensions about this. I must stay positive and take things on a day to day basis. </div>
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Tomorrow will set the tone for the rest of the trek. <br />
Fingers crossed!<br />
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Day 2 Leh to Zingchen to Rumbak</b></span></div>
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Today was the action day. I left from Leh around 9 am and reached Spituk by 945 am. </div>
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There is nothing in Spituk besides a monastery. I took the dusty road to Zingchen and walked 6 km in an hour and half. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ADTwfHbcZCs/VhJ9dLSXUAI/AAAAAAAAC98/oJNuyttdcJg/s1600/GOPR1709.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ADTwfHbcZCs/VhJ9dLSXUAI/AAAAAAAAC98/oJNuyttdcJg/s320/GOPR1709.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trek start point, road on the right</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Take right after this bridge for Zingchen</td></tr>
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<br />
I was all alone except the very occasional cars spewing dust on my face. <br />
I hitchhiked in one of the cabs till zingchen. </div>
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Zingchen wasn't what I was expecting it to be. Homestay wise. <br />
There was a small concrete structure but it was locked and there was one parachute tent which served only Maggi. </div>
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From Zingchen to yurutse the trail follows the river until a point comes when you have to cross a bridge. No rocket science, the trail bends that way. </div>
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I decided to hike till yurutse initially but later decided to take a detour to Rumbak instead because of its proximity. </div>
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If you keep right on the trail from Zingchen, you reach yurutse, if you take the left detour and keep following the red poles, you reach Rumbak. Rumbak is closer while coming from Zingchen. </div>
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Since this isn't trekking season for Markha, I didn't encounter many humans let alone trekkers on the trail. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WMuPkYGeja0/VhJ9-kqhIpI/AAAAAAAAC-E/Qy0_1MYxZ5s/s1600/GOPR1723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WMuPkYGeja0/VhJ9-kqhIpI/AAAAAAAAC-E/Qy0_1MYxZ5s/s320/GOPR1723.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Day 1 -- The hunt for Rumbak</td></tr>
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<br />
I almost went into panic a couple of times since I was hungry, tired and there was no village visible on the horizon. I had veered off towards the animal sheds mistaking them for homes. <br />
Luckily, I met a few people who pointed me towards the right direction. </div>
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I huffed and puffed to Rumbak! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1x9n-ID6g3M/VhJ5zlu57nI/AAAAAAAAC9g/0BZhvzOcbt8/s1600/DSCF4276.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1x9n-ID6g3M/VhJ5zlu57nI/AAAAAAAAC9g/0BZhvzOcbt8/s320/DSCF4276.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scenic Rumbak Village</td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5x3VEuspYto/VhJ5M9UhatI/AAAAAAAAC9M/-gy6n2LdC1w/s1600/DSCF4269.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the home stay kitchen</td></tr>
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There are 9 homestays in Rumbak. All of them have a typical Ladakhi architecture. </div>
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I took refuge in the very first home stay for tea and lunch. <br />
I pitched my tent right outside that home stay and asked them to prepare dinner for me as well. </div>
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On asking around, I came to know there are a couple of trekkers headed for Markha. Problem is that they are camped in yurutse and I'm here sipping hot tea in Rumbak. </div>
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I need to be around people while crossing Ganda La. I need to have a backup plan incase AMS hits me. </div>
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With that thought I'm mentally fixated at my next goal - reaching yurutse early morning. <br />
From what I've been told, it's an hours trek. </div>
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A few milestones for the day - </div>
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Distance covered - 17 kms approx</li>
<li>Longest trek day absolutely solo. </li>
<li>Highest camp for me yet </li>
</ul>
Rumbak is <b>3947m </b>altitude as per my phone's GPS. <br />
Previous highest was Bedni bugyal at 3600m.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day 3 Rumbak to Yurutse </span></b></div>
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Yurutse, the two house town which serves as a launch pad for hiking further to Ganda la base. </div>
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Unfortunately, Ganda la base campsite is closed since it is off season. </div>
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I woke up at 7 am today, packed my stuff, had breakfast at homestay at Rumbak. Left lazily at 9:40 am. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NixJjLKcOHw/VhJ-h7KWPjI/AAAAAAAAC-M/a5hngLlWC1o/s1600/GOPR1726.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NixJjLKcOHw/VhJ-h7KWPjI/AAAAAAAAC-M/a5hngLlWC1o/s320/GOPR1726.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way to Yurutse</td></tr>
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Today was a short hike day. I had no plans to even think of crossing Ganda la today. Today is the short hike day I had initially planned for. </div>
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From Rumbak, I descended from the homestays to the river bed, from where I started looking for a trail. Those were really anxious times. </div>
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Like yesterday, I didn't see any trekkers on the trail and walked absolutely alone. I found a trail diverging from the river bed and had a huge sigh of relief. </div>
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The trail was pretty straightforward till the pastures. Later it diverges to a trail going upwards. Since that trail looked dominant, I started following it. </div>
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There is a mild ascent and you cross the 4000m mark pretty soon. The trail keeps going up. <br />
I began to breathe heavy and took a lot of breaks. I kept myself hydrated whenever I took a stop. <br />
Soon, after walking for exactly 2 hours all by myself, I saw prayer flags. </div>
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I had reached Yurutse. There are two homestays here. I decided to choose the homestay option and not pitch my tent today, reason being, I need an early start tomorrow to reach Skiu and packing my stuff takes me a long time. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GY63JIMIx1c/VhJ6cz66FnI/AAAAAAAAC9o/78k0oAMwrHI/s1600/DSCF4291.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GY63JIMIx1c/VhJ6cz66FnI/AAAAAAAAC9o/78k0oAMwrHI/s320/DSCF4291.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from rooftop - Homestay at Yurutse</td></tr>
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I'm getting more confidence from the success of the last 2 days. If I make it to Skiu tomorrow, I'm pretty sure I'll also make it to Shang Sumdo. </div>
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Highlights of the day :<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Distance covered - 4 km</li>
<li>Max altitude - 4100m</li>
<li>Highest camp for me - breaking yesterday's record </li>
</ul>
<br />
Next highest would be Nimaling - <b>4700m</b>.</div>
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I met other trekkers today. A couple from France, a couple of Indians, a few ladakhi guides. <br />
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Guess I'm not walking alone tomorrow.<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Day 4 Yurutse to Shingo</b></span></div>
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I started the day early at 6 am. Slept fine last night in short bursts of about 2 hours each. I felt rested when I woke up. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9EQsWQtA7_g/VhJ--SLFhEI/AAAAAAAAC-U/9fYsCO64sOU/s1600/GOPR1752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9EQsWQtA7_g/VhJ--SLFhEI/AAAAAAAAC-U/9fYsCO64sOU/s320/GOPR1752.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After leaving Yurutse, the sun was really harsh </td></tr>
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I left early along with the other trekkers for Skiu via Ganda la. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nExQcGLGl7g/VhJ_lF2nb_I/AAAAAAAAC-k/mxBeWAdR4nA/s1600/GOPR1756.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nExQcGLGl7g/VhJ_lF2nb_I/AAAAAAAAC-k/mxBeWAdR4nA/s320/GOPR1756.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closed Ganda La Base :( </td></tr>
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The first half of the trail was pretty easy. I checked the GPS when I reached 4600m.<br />
Every step after that was struggle especially with my 18 kg backpack pulling me back. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V8oOhiirsVA/VhKAO8PWfFI/AAAAAAAAC-w/4U5ZC-wttok/s1600/DSCF4349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V8oOhiirsVA/VhKAO8PWfFI/AAAAAAAAC-w/4U5ZC-wttok/s320/DSCF4349.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Atop Ganda La Pass @ 4950m altitude</td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-srsSVRYrPw0/VhKBWtBUiaI/AAAAAAAAC_A/YCzO6HjboRY/s1600/DSCF4359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-srsSVRYrPw0/VhKBWtBUiaI/AAAAAAAAC_A/YCzO6HjboRY/s320/DSCF4359.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chilling while actually being Chilly at Ganda La</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
I started walking from Yurutse at around 8:30 am and reached Ganda la, altitude 4920m as per GPS at around 12:30 pm. <br />
<br />
This was very slow and I blame the heavy bag for that. Heavy bag and the high altitude made it really difficult for me. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
However, unlike the past 2 days, I had company on the trail. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Ganda La pass was very cold and extremely windy. I rued not having gloves. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The view from there was simply breathtaking with the Zanskar range on one side and the Karakoram range on the other. I also saw the Stok Kangri peak in all its glory radiating from the sunlights glow. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
After Ganda La, we started descending. My back started to hurt from the weight and the steep initial descent. I decided to not go till Skiu and halted before at Shingo. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Everybody else also decided to halt at Shingo. Should I have walked in pain and tried for Skiu? <br />
I guess I decided to take it easy.Good for me. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Reached Shingo at 2:45 pm, had the packed lunch I carried from the previous homestay and called it a day.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I made it across a 4940m high mountain pass with almost full camping gear. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Confidence++<br />
<br />
Highlights of the last day :<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Distance covered - 10.5 km</li>
<li>Max altitude at Ganda La - 4940m</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I met a German lady today. We had an interesting discussion about destiny. She seems sorted, like she has figured life out. Yet another perspective on life. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I feel like a collector of sorts. I collect opinions. I do not act on them and I don't let them change the way I am. <br />
I just observe and sometimes pass it on to others. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Perspective ++<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Day 5 Shingo to Sara</span></b></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I woke up at the usual 6 am today. The day before was very intense and I had a very nice deep sleep. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The group I'm following decided to hike till Markha today to make up for yesterday's lapse in distance covered. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I was not sure how long I should follow them as they were not sure if they're going all the way. <br />
Finally, one of the guy decided to return from Markha and the other decided to complete the trek. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
My back and my backpack were two burning issues. The first due to the latter. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I left Shingo lazily at 8 am, following the group. <br />
The trail zig-zagged along the Shingo river with various ascents, descents and level walks. Difficulty was easy gradient wise but the distance was too long. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JuRfGqEjku0/VhKA4r-QztI/AAAAAAAAC-4/k2wwAnoQzes/s1600/GOPR1779.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JuRfGqEjku0/VhKA4r-QztI/AAAAAAAAC-4/k2wwAnoQzes/s320/GOPR1779.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scenic trail from Shingo to Sara</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
The view was magnificent at several turns. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
After walking in the sun for a good 2:30 hrs, we reached Skiu at 10:40 am. Skiu looked like a ghost town with many homestays. <br />
The sun was really pounding by the time we left for sara village. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The trail from Skiu ran parallel to the river with the same occasional ascents and descents. Overall, a gentle gradient. If you follow the river, you can't go much wrong except missing an easy trail for a walk on the boulder filled river bed. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
My shoulders were feeling the brunt of the tight shoulder straps. I took occasional breaks to relieve tension. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H_FWS4A58io/VhKBzY_HaBI/AAAAAAAAC_I/9oMvvAeXo5o/s1600/DSCF4366.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H_FWS4A58io/VhKBzY_HaBI/AAAAAAAAC_I/9oMvvAeXo5o/s320/DSCF4366.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tenting at Sara, Big mistake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
After no sight of Sara village till 2 pm, I made up my mind to not pursue Markha village today. <br />
So, I pitched my tent at Sara village when we reached there by 4 pm. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I walked 7 hours today and covered a distance of 18 km. Today was an easier walk thanks to the loss of altitude. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The trail was simple and didn't require any guidance. I spent all day walking with the same couple of guys because our speeds are the same. I feel I could've easily done this even if there were no other trekkers. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Sara stands at 3450m high as per GPS. Lowest campsite so far. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I'm thinking about the grand views I witnessed today, as I go to sleep in my tent. The picture perfect Valley, the blue river, the rising peaks and the endless trail. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I'm also thinking about the fact that I haven't been in touch with the rest of the world for 4 days now. I think that's a personal record, one I'm sure I'll extend in the coming days. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Tomorrow is a long day too. I must rest and prepare myself mentally.<br />
<br />
<br />
Highlights of the day :<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Distance covered - 18 km</li>
<li>Max altitude - 4028m</li>
</ul>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Day 6 Sara to Hangkar</b></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
I made a terrible mistake last night by sleeping in my tent. The cold was brutal and my throat started paining. I woke up at 1:30 am frantically trying to find comfort in my sleeping bag. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I had random spells of sleep mixed with miserable awakenings. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I got up at 6 am with an aching throat and checked myself for fever. My forehead was cold and I wasn't feeling any symptoms besides the throat pain. <br />
The German lady gave me tea tree oil for my throat. She seems nice.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I left Sara at 9:15 AM and followed the same group as before. After a continuous walk of two and a half hours, I reached Markha village. <br />
The trail Sara to Markha was along the river, crossing it sometimes. The views were stunning with plain grass Meadows, blue river, red flowers presenting themselves at every stretch. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The Markha river crossing is now covered with a bridge. One doesn't need to cross the cold river on foot anymore. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Markha village in itself seems to be the most developed of all the other villages. It even has a school. I gave away my chocolates to the kids I met on the way. Markha also has good monasteries, wish I had the time to go inside one.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I exchanged my heavy bag with the guide of the group I was walking with. 17kgs for 10kgs seemed a very good barter. The group itself was just one more person, since the other person gave up and set off for Leh via chilling. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I took breaks every 2 hours and enjoyed the view. The sun was harsh and the trail is mostly dusty. This aggravated my throat condition. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Also, the trail today involved long stretches of walking on the river bed. One needs to be extremely careful with each step. A slip can ruin the whole trek. <br />
Today was a long walking day. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7_R9xRq_Uks/VhKCrAp_pPI/AAAAAAAAC_U/Y-4M1KMsD8w/s1600/DSCF4402.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7_R9xRq_Uks/VhKCrAp_pPI/AAAAAAAAC_U/Y-4M1KMsD8w/s320/DSCF4402.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stopover at Umlung, on the way to Hangkar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
I covered 17 km in 7 hrs and I'm now in Hangkar which sits at an altitude of 4000m.<br />
Tomorrow is going to be a long day as well with the destination being Nimaling which is at 4700m altitude. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nJGUBB7h2L0/VhKNVRF4i1I/AAAAAAAADAY/0_boP4qD6x8/s1600/DSCF4418.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="84" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nJGUBB7h2L0/VhKNVRF4i1I/AAAAAAAADAY/0_boP4qD6x8/s320/DSCF4418.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hangkar Panorama</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I took the homestay option today since my throat is bad and I can't afford to risk it. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Nimaling doesn't have homestays but just parachute tents. It's going to be extremely cold there. Last painful night of this trek. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
This trek is also coming to an end. Next night at Nimaling and the one after that at Shang sumdo which is quite close to civilization. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I look back at the previous days and especially the ones I spent walking alone and I feel like patting myself on the back for not giving up. Once the clouds of doubts are blown away with the winds of hope, life looks a lot clearer and you see the trail very clearly. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
All I did was hung on and pursued my objective actively. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Rest of the victory talk after I summit Kongmaru-La (highest point of trek @ <b>5200m</b>). However, I am satisfied with where I am right now.<br />
<br />
Highlights of the day :<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Distance covered - 17.5 km</li>
<li>Max altitude - 4000m</li>
</ul>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Day 7 Hangkar to Nimaling</b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
</h3>
<div dir="ltr">
The night at homestay at Hangkar was very comfortable. The only problem was my throat which woke me up early morning. </div>
<br />
<div dir="ltr">
I ate a hearty breakfast knowing the altitude I have to reach today. I stuffed up as much food as I could and left for Nimaling at around 9 am. </div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MDTYCixveb0/VhKDJl6AuRI/AAAAAAAAC_k/QI-RN_oXl2U/s1600/GOPR1816.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MDTYCixveb0/VhKDJl6AuRI/AAAAAAAAC_k/QI-RN_oXl2U/s320/GOPR1816.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way to Nimaling from Hangkar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
The first checkpoint is Thochuntse which is not homestays but a parachute tent. Thochuntse is closed during this season. The trail was very clear and the best part was that there was minimum walking on the river bed. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ChuYJX7Hka8/VhKER9pXkmI/AAAAAAAAC_0/mtonTdvqxFc/s1600/GOPR1826.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ChuYJX7Hka8/VhKER9pXkmI/AAAAAAAAC_0/mtonTdvqxFc/s320/GOPR1826.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thochuntse parachute tent visible</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
I reached Thochuntse at around 1120 am and sat down to have some light snacks. Thochuntse is a level meadow ground with a parachute tent and a few structures which looked like homestays in the making. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Thochuntse is also where the trail becomes steep and climbs up constantly. The air got noticeably thin and I was struggling after every few steps. The views were magnificent though. Especially, the one looking back from Thochuntse. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
After a long monotonous climb till an altitude of 4750m, I reached a lake. Other trekkers were having their lunch there. I had my packed lunch too - a boiled potato, bread and cheese slice. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The view of KangYatse peak from the lake was amazing. I took an hours rest there, knowing that Nimaling is nearby. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LX8f_i80vfM/VhKDwpReDtI/AAAAAAAAC_s/kkBaZRaQN9Y/s1600/DSCF4427.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LX8f_i80vfM/VhKDwpReDtI/AAAAAAAAC_s/kkBaZRaQN9Y/s320/DSCF4427.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magnificent Lake and the view of KangYatse in background</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
From the lake, after a hike of 1:30 hrs, I reached Nimaling. Nimaling is just a huge plain area, which is rare on this trail. The trail from the lake wounds around the kangyatse peak and descends to the huge pasture area. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
You can spot Nimaling from about 2 kms far, since it's just a very long flat land. Looks closer than it is. Took me around 25 minutes to reach it from when I spotted it. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jo-PjLYBeyE/VhKJgbjqLSI/AAAAAAAADAM/9J6m84i2bUM/s1600/DSCF4440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jo-PjLYBeyE/VhKJgbjqLSI/AAAAAAAADAM/9J6m84i2bUM/s320/DSCF4440.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Endless Nimaling Plains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kViwoBLCDDE/VhKJYqhcXyI/AAAAAAAADAE/54Daz9yO3g0/s1600/DSCF4441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kViwoBLCDDE/VhKJYqhcXyI/AAAAAAAADAE/54Daz9yO3g0/s320/DSCF4441.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The famed Nimaling Parachute tent - Best food here!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div dir="ltr">
<br />
The view is amazing and it feels like you're walking into a painting. <br />
With snow covered peaks flanking the green ground on both sides. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
There are just parachute tents in Nimaling. No homestays. Tents are pitched for hikers near the parachute tent and are equipped with mats and rugs. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Nimaling is incredibly windy. The tents are always making that rattling sound. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I am feeling feverish as I sit in the parachute tent and write my journal for the day. Maybe the throat problem is worsening. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Just one more night I'm thinking. Just don't fall apart for one more day. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Tomorrow is the last day of the trek. I shall reach Shang sumdo tomorrow, take a cab back to Leh and probably heal. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
This is it. I've been walking for 6 days. Sometimes alone, sometimes with other trekkers. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Tomorrow I shall cross Kangmaru-La, the highest pass on this trail and charge for Shang Sumdo. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
So close. So damn close. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Fever fever go away! <br />
<br />
Highlights of the day :<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Distance covered - 12 km</li>
<li>Max altitude at Nimaling - 4700m </li>
<li>Highest altitude I've ever camped at</li>
</ul>
</div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
</h3>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Day 8 Nimaling to Shang Sumdo to Leh</b></span></div>
<div dir="ltr">
The worst night of my life. I woke up at 3 am struggling to breathe. I had very bad AMS. <br />
Everytime I slept, my breathing stopped. <br />
I had various hallucinations. I doubted if I'd see morning. <br />
Really fucked up hallucinations. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The morning was better, infact at around 6 am, the AMS disappeared. I had a hearty breakfast yet again. The same food I've been having for 4 days. Roti, jam, butter. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
There were many trekkers in the camp. French, Australians, Germans, Swiss and Indians. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
There were just two Indians. Me and another guy.<br />
Today we had to scale Kangmaru La pass. I started later than the others at 9 am. I was feeling dull due to lack of sleep. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I set out for Kangmaru LA with my 17 kg backpack. As per news, Kangmaru La had heavy snow deposits due to the wind. The groups guides had left to make footholds in the snow. The guide who was carrying my backpack had also left. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
So, I was left with the heavy task of climbing 5250m with my backpack. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I was really struggling throughout the ascent. The air was really thin and I was struggling to breathe. The trail from Nimaling starts right next to the stream near the camp and goes up steeply. The muddy trail is flanked by snow on both sides and if you look back you get views of Kang Yatse peak (<b>6400m</b>).<br />
I stopped numerous times and got lost in the visual spectacle. Too bad I couldn't click any pictures today, the climb was really difficult and demanded my entire attention. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I reached Kangmaru la in 2 hours. Kang Yatse looked amazing from there. I had made it, reached the highest point of the trek and the highest altitude reached in my life, another barrier broken. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
After the ascent, the descent to Shang sumdo wasn't a cakewalk either. The guides present in the vicinity offered to rope me up with others to descend. <br />
It was very strenuous and my knees were very tired. There was Valley exposure and the trail was covered by soft snow. My foot caved in the snow entirely multiple times. It was doable without ropes too but the guides had the ropes with them and they wanted to use it. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
Descending after the snow ended was relatively easier but my knees were giving up on steep slopes. I stopped and reorganized my bag, layered down, readjusted straps and tightened my shoe laces. I also had juice I was carrying all by myself, absorbing the sounds of nature. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I caught up with a group and followed them to shang sumdo. Total time taken from Kangmaru la to Shang sumdo was 6 hours. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The trail involved mostly walking on the river bed. You can bypass the river bed by walking on the side trails which ascend high and then go parallel to the river. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The river bed really punished my knees but there were no injuries. I tried a few interesting river crossing moves keeping up with the group. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I passed chuskirmo and chokdo camps on the way to Shang sumdo. Chokdo in particular was a very beautiful village with huge homestays. It is here that you start noticing the electricity poles. Just before reaching Shang sumdo, the trail beautifully wounds into various twists and turns. You can spot Shang sumdo from a long way. <br />
<br />
And.. with that.. the trek was over.<br />
<br />
<br />
Highlights of the <u>last day</u>:<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Distance covered - 18.2 km</li>
<li>Max altitude at Kongmaru La - 5250m (17240 ft)</li>
<li>Highest altitude reached yet and that too with camping gear!</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
I decided to take the cab back to Leh with the group who I've been walking with for the most part of this trek. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
The cab was waiting in a ground in Shang sumdo. The cab driver mentioned that very few Indians finish this trek and to do this in off season was admirable. I felt proud of myself. <br /></div>
<div dir="ltr">
Ending the trek felt bittersweet. Bitter because I've been part of a wonderful trip away from the world, away from all the worries. <br />
Sweet because.. I hadn't showered in 8 days. I really needed to shower. My BO could've been used as a WMD. </div>
<div dir="ltr">
I reached Leh at around 7 pm and straightaway checked into the hotel where I had previously stayed at. Taking a shower has never felt this nice. </div>
</div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-2407423092831137912015-09-22T21:43:00.004-07:002015-09-22T21:43:57.224-07:00Prelude : Markha Valley Trek<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I've been day dreaming about this week for almost 2 months now. Ever since I booked my to-and-fro flights to Leh.<br />
<br />
I am going to Ladakh for the Markha valley trek from <b>25th September </b>to <b>5th October. </b><br />
<br />
The earlier plan was to take a flight from Delhi to Srinagar and a bus from Srinagar to Leh.<br />
However, it seemingly turned out to be a very inefficient idea.<br />
I would have spent a lot and still traveled for close to 2 days each side.<br />
<br />
I have been preparing for this trek since the last month and a half.<br />
<br />
<u><b>Physical Prep</b></u><br />
<br />
The sessions in gym have been focused on building core strength, cardiovascular endurance more than just piling on muscles.<br />
There have been hurdles. Moments when I didn't feel like getting up from the bed, let alone going to the gym and push myself.<br />
<br />
But the end result is satisfactory, I can notice I get less tired after doing the same amount of cardio exercises. That's one way of quantifying progress. Now I just hope it translates into results while I'm out on the trail.<br />
<br />
<u><b>Equipment Prep</b></u><br />
<br />
I have also equipped myself with better winter wear. New additions being :<br />
<br />
1. Thermal Base layer - Bought from decathlon<br />
2. Down jacket - Quechua Arpenaz 100<br />
3. Fleece jacket - Quechua Fleece with zip<br />
<br />
This will help me reduce backpack weight considerably.<br />
Also, the earlier layers (Cotton jacket, Sweater and Cottswool thermal) took a lot of space.<br />
<br />
I will also be carrying my own camping set.<br />
<br />
1. Tent - 2.4 Kgs<br />
2. Sleeping Bag - 2 Kgs<br />
3. Mat - 0.5 Kgs<br />
<br />
Total backpack weight without food, water, tent and mat is <b>10.80 Kgs</b><br />
Adding in all these things would shoot up the weight to a staggering <b>19 Kgs (2L water, 1.5 kgs food)</b><br />
<br />
Other than the cameras, journal and slippers, there is nothing else that I think is not excess to the basic requirements of survival.<br />
<br />
<u><b>Mental Prep</b></u><br />
<br />
There has been a lot of doubts in the initial phase of planning.<br />
<u><i><b></b></i></u><br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><b><u><i>Carrying camping set </i></u></b></li>
</ul>
<br />
This is primarily a personal mission. This trek does not require tents to be carried as there are numerous home stays throughout the trail.<br />
In fact, from what the internet tells me, this is one of the rare tea-house treks in India.<br />
When I look at the 19Kgs backpack, I still wonder if its doable for me but again..<br />
<br />
"If I never try, I'll never know"<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><b><u><i>Deciding the route</i></u></b></li>
</ul>
<br />
I am taking the longer route from Spituk.<br />
<br />
Route being :<br />
<br />
Leh -> Spituk -> Zingchen -> Ganda La Base -> Skiu -> Markha -> Thochuntse -> Nimaling -> Shang Sumdo -> Leh<br />
<br />
There is however a shorter route from Chilling which bypasses the Ganda La Pass.<br />
I chose this trek because I would get to cross two high altitude passes.<br />
<br />
Ganda La and Kongmaru La.<br />
<br />
<br />
Both are 5000m+<br />
<br />
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br />
So, that sums up my preparation. No matter how much you plan, you can never be sure if its enough or if its overkill.<br />
You can read all the resources from the internet you want but all that's usually from a personal point of view. Resources should be taken as guidelines and not absolute instructions.<br />
<br />
I would be writing journals on a daily basis. I would be capturing footage from my goPro camera too.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /><b></b><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-44689630158896773.post-38212793042649160842015-09-19T21:48:00.003-07:002015-09-19T22:01:16.490-07:00Why trek solo ?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
"Why trek at all?" might be the initial question.<br />
<br />
I have always felt that trekking/hiking has a healing factor. It distracts you from the possibly stale life you have. Now, you might be the happiest person in the world with all the riches, great friends, wife/husband, stable job, cars and .. an endless list of things.<br />
<br />
You might have all of that or some of that. Regardless, it goes stale.<br />
Your mind craves for new stimulus.<br />
<br />
Taking a hike up the mountains provides that stimulus and more.<br />
You meet new people who are often very different from the kinds you know.<br />
New cultures, customs, traditions, routines.<br />
<br />
I personally find meeting new people a very refreshing experience. Especially, the people who are far cut off from the urban life.<br />
Imagine, not knowing what traffic, pollution, crowded roads is like.<br />
It is life, as it was meant to be.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><u>Trekking Solo</u></b><br />
<br />
Trekking or even traveling solo has many dangers. Mostly, it all circles around "Safety concerns".<br />
Which is truly legit.<br />
Something unfortunate happens and you can already hear the people talking about "How he/she never listens", "He/she asked for it" and a lot more. <br />
<br />
Most people have a very negative opinion about solo trekkers. I have personally got compliments ranging from - "Lunatic" to "Self absorbed" myself.<br />
<br />
<br />
<i><b>I think there is a need for a declaration of intent.</b></i><br />
<br />
Going solo is more about finding yourself. Finding who you really are.<br />
Finding what people call "soul".<br />
<br />
The most rewarding experience is to get to be yourself.<br />
In our daily lives, how often do we get to express ourselves the way we want?<br />
Aren't we too concerned or bogged down by the societal expectations, with people judging us by our actions ?<br />
We think we're free but we're really mostly in chains. <br />
<br />
<br />
Trust me, It takes a lot of courage to pack your bags and head out on your own.<br />
In the initial days of my solo escapades, I used to not eat properly the day I used to leave for my journey out of sheer anxiety.<br />
And when you finally muster up the courage, the negative words of people ring in your ears like a warning siren. Your heart beat races up thinking about the feasibility of all the bad things that can happen. It pulls you back. Your backpack is heavier and its not just due to gravity anymore. <br />
<br />
<i>How do you leave then ?</i><br />
<br />
"Leap of faith"<br />
<br />
Being mindful of all the negative possibilities is good. It keeps you on your toes and alert for any danger.<br />
But what really makes it happen is looking at the light at the end of the tunnel.<br />
You don't run a race with your head hanging back, you run it with it pointing ahead!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vljtrHmpBv0/Vf42JL6W31I/AAAAAAAAC8Y/wAwEbVresz4/s1600/image-100m-explosif-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="249" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vljtrHmpBv0/Vf42JL6W31I/AAAAAAAAC8Y/wAwEbVresz4/s320/image-100m-explosif-4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Case in point</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
And once you do manage to leave, everything feels light. That feeling of embarking on your personal journey is soul satisfying and brings out the best in you.<br />
<br />
This gets amplified once you're really in the mountains. A simple activity like walking is a life enriching experience, one that you will keep with you for the rest of your life.<br />
It becomes a part of you.<br />
<br />
You get a high level view of what your life looks like. Not just because of the increased altitude but because you're no longer in that maze called routine life.<br />
If you look hard enough, you can even find the way ahead in that maze.<br />
Simple solutions to problems you thought will rule you for the rest of your life. <br />
<br />
Perspective, I believe is the word. <br />
<br />
Being a solo trekker, you learn to deal with situations on the fly.<br />
When there's nobody to rely on, you rely on yourself.<br />
When you rely on yourself, you adapt and learn things you otherwise may not.<br />
<br />
So, there are two persons.<br />
<br />
The one who was filled with anxiety while leaving the door of his house, filled with doubt, filled with regret and apprehensions.<br />
<br />
<i>versus </i><br />
<br />
The other who has conquered all those feelings and feels like a conqueror. Buoyed by increased confidence and faith in himself/herself. Possessing the knowledge of what he/she's capable of.<br />
<br />
The one who returns is the one who's liberated.<br />
<br />
And that alone, makes it <i><u>worth it.</u></i> </div>
Prashanthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07749929058478623232noreply@blogger.com3